尋找中國造型

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1990 / 3月



長久以來,頭戴瓜皮帽、身著長袍馬褂、留著長辮的「傅滿洲」,一直是西方人印象裡的中國人「代表」,這個詭計多端、狡滑的電影人物,實在很難讓人對中國衷心喜歡。

近年,隨著美國電影「末代皇帝」的放映,由於它挾著奧斯卡金像獎之威,所到之處,莫不掀起一股中國風。

由華裔美人編劇、描寫中日戀人愛情故事的舞台劇「M.Butterfly」在紐約及倫敦等地造成出乎意料的轟動,令不少戲迷對中國更感興趣。

而一向嗅覺最靈敏的服裝界,怎能不立即反應?於是「中國風」在世界服裝流行「民族風」的趨勢之中,佔有極重要的一席之地。

在我國,一向以西方裝潢、進口貨品為號召的百貨公司,也開始有了省思:五千年的歷史文化,可採擷的菁華不可勝數,為什麼不在自己的文化中尋找「造型」?

而一群看著女兒玩外國「芭比娃娃」長大的婦女們,在不太「服氣」的心態下,也有意為中國小朋友塑造屬於自己的玩伴。

其實,在生活中,包含民間藝術的各種品類如建築、雕刻、陶藝、繪畫、刺繡等,俯拾皆是「中國造型」。

藝術史學者莊伯和以為,各種造型背後的意識形態基礎,可以大自一種民族共同的宇宙觀、審美意識的具現,小至民間百姓對生活的祈願,以及結合民俗所產生的象微意義。

把放眼世界的眼光回歸「中國」,尋找中國人的造型,似乎已開始在我國展開行動,服飾、百貨業可以說是其中引領風潮者,且看他們怎麼做!

〔圖片說明〕

P.4

「末代皇帝」一片掀起了中國熱,也使清朝宮廷服飾中的圖案被各國設計師融入民俗風的設計中。(信華影業公司提供)

相關文章

近期文章

EN

In Search of Chinese Forms


For a long time now, many Westerners' conception of the typical Chinese has been Fu Manchu, a sneaky, conniving film character who has hardly been an appealing representative of China.

Recently, however, the Oscar-winning film The Last Emperor has stirred up a craze for things Chinese everywhere it had been shown. And how could t he ever-sensitive fashion industry not pick up on the trend?

Here in Taiwan, department stores, which has always appealed to their customers with imported products and Western-style designs, began to reflect: Why not find a model in our own culture? And women who have watched their daughters grow up playing with foreign-featured Barbie dolls have come u p with the idea of creating a playmate for Chinese children in their own image.

Finding forms for Chinese people and bringing our gaze back home seems to be already under way in our country, and women's fashion and the department store industry are leading the pace. Let's take a look at what they've been doing....

[Picture Caption]

The Last Emperor set off a China fever and led many fashion designers to adopt motifs form Ch'ing dynasty dress in their creations. (photo courtesy of Hsin Hua Motion Picture Co., Ltd.)

 

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