It is the eve of the third anniversary of the September 21 earthquake, and a hot sun is shining overhead. Coincidentally, members of two groups from Taipei-the Nature Trail Society Taiwan and the Wulai Fushan Community Development Association-have come south to make pilgrimages to Taumi.

Coming to Taumi, the first thing that strikes your eye is an upright wooden dragonfly-and-bird pavilion on the banks of the Taumi River. With this structure, the people of Taumi demonstrate their ideals and concepts for creating an ecological village.

You may well wonder, what exactly is an ecological village? How does one go about exploring and learning there?

All kinds of dragonflies flit through the air; frogs croak back and forth to each other; birds sing from the branches. . . . Unlike the typical natural scenic tourist attraction, an ecological village does not offer startling vistas. Rather, here people will see a wetland ecology with its diverse plants and grasses and the forms of life that call it home.

Taumi is located about five kilometers southwest of Puli Township, at the entrance to Sun Moon Lake. It borders University Pond, a 400-hectare body of water where lilies grow in abundance. National Chi Nan University is located here, and the town has the appealing nickname of "doctorate village" among folks in Nantou County. In sum, it enjoys an outstanding geographic position and excellent human and cultural resources.

Nonetheless, development has been hampered because much of the land is swampland. With an area of about 18 square kilometers and a population of just over 1200, little Taumi has in the past relied mainly on planting of secondary crops such as bamboo shoots for its main source of income.

In the September 21 earthquake of 1999, 168 of the 369 homes in Taumi were completely destroyed, and another 60 seriously damaged. Even Chi Nan University, which had opened only four years earlier (in 1995), was affected severely.

As if the earthquake were not bad enough, the blow to agriculture from Taiwan's entry into the World Trade Organization "added frost to the deep snow" under which the rural economy has been buried. What would be the best way to rebuild? What can be done to bring the area back to life? Taumi, like other disaster areas and rural villages in general, has had to face these questions.

Discovering Taumi

The people of Taumi were at a loss for what to do after the September 21 earthquake. Former neighborhood chief Huang Chin-chun came into contact with the "New Homeland Association" through Chi Nan University, and asked New Homeland to take the lead in helping the people of Taumi find a new direction for the future.

While New Homeland was willing to help, it was still a step-by-step process to win the trust of local residents and to build consensus in the community.

Liao Chia-chan, the chairman of the New Homeland Association, says that in the past, there was no contact between the two main ethnic groups (Minnan and Hakka) in Taumi, which, though called a "neighborhood" for administrative purposes, actually is made up of scattered villages. But disaster has unexpectedly brought these two groups together. Beginning with the river cleaning activity, the people of Taumi have begun to improve, treasure, and understand their own hometown.

Where should the community go in the future? While of course local residents must determine their own future and build consensus, environmental conditions cannot be ignored.

Taumi lies at altitudes of 420 to 770 meters above sea level, and is criss-crossed by six rivers or creeks of various sizes. Because there is a low level of industrial development, and because the area has a diverse and complex ecology including forest, rivers, and wetlands, there is a rich diversity of life there.

Even though it accounts for less than one two-thousandth of Taiwan's total area, the biodiversity in Taumi neighborhood is something with which even most entire townships cannot compare. According to a survey conducted by the Taiwan Endemic Species Research Institute of the Council of Agriculture, of Taiwan's 29 frog species, 19 appear in Taumi; of the 143 types of dragonflies in Taiwan, 42 have been discovered in Taumi thus far; and of Taiwan's 150 bird species, more than one-third (58) can be seen in Taumi.

Peng Kuo-tung, who began studying the ecology of Taumi in July of 1990, points out that Taumi enjoys extraordinarily rich ecological resources, making it suitable for the development of ecological recreation.

Peng relates that there are two main models from overseas for the construction of an ecological village. One is to construct a new community cut off from the rest of the world. The other is to upgrade the extent and status of the local ecology in an existing traditional community. The plan for the Taumi ecological village falls under the latter category.

Corporate sponsorship

"We never knew that we had so many treasures here in our Taumi." Local residents are getting a great deal of pleasure from the process of learning about the special characteristics of their locality.

"If you want to make an ecological village," says Liao Chia-chan, "then everything from people's behavior and values to production and contributions to the community must be related to the ecology." Given this pre-condition, the first order of business has been to educate the local residents.

"Community work must start with the 'software,' not the hardware," declares Liao. The creation of a consensus in a community on choosing a new direction requires education and training.

Liao Mei-hua, director of the Idea Bank, often visits Puli, and knows the people at the New Homeland Association very well. After gaining a thorough understanding of the needs of Taumi, she transmitted these needs to Philips Taiwan, which was looking for ways to assist community reconstruction in disaster areas. Paul Zeven, the president of Philips Taiwan, strongly endorsed the idea of making Taumi into an ecological village. Thus, on the eve of the second anniversary of the September 21 earthquake, the company donated NT$1.2 million to the New Homeland Association as an education fund for Taumi neighborhood.

Zeven says that Philips aims to work with local community groups to implement local management, with special concern for local culture. He also hopes that more people can be brought to pay attention to the problems of economic transformation in the countryside and of restoration and reconstruction of the natural environment.

"Although the education work supported by Philips does not on the surface produce anything concrete, it is the most fundamental and most important task," says Liao Chia-chan earnestly.

With the help of a number of institutions-including the Employment and Vocational Training Administration of the Council of Labor Affairs, the Bureau of Social Affairs of the Nantou County government, the Endemic Species Research Institute, and the Department of Tourism at Shih Hsin University-Taumi proceeded with a preliminary ecological exposition and investigation, and organized numerous classes to train people how to professionally prepare for and deal with tourists and tour groups. In addition, there were "green lectures" to instruct local residents in ecological concepts. In order to set even deeper roots, there were also "children's hometown exploration teams" involving third- through sixth-graders.

The third of these "children's hometown exploration team" activities was held in Taumi Primary School during summer vacation. Fascinated children observed dragonflies, admired birds, studied frogs, and got to know the wetlands. Liao Chia-chan says that in the future they will train "little guides" so that local children will be guides for visiting kids, and communication should be easier between them.

Of course the adults of Taumi are not to be left behind, and have attained a high level of learning themselves. Already nine students have completed the first part of the curriculum to become ecological guides.

It is no easy feat to be certified as an ecological guide. One must pass a written exam, identify and explain slides, identify various plants and animals in the wild, and so on. Taking its responsibilities seriously, the New Homeland Association invited Lee Yuan-tseh, president of the Academia Sinica, as well as Paul Zeven of Philips, to present the certificates to the first nine Taumi residents who passed the qualifying tests.

"When I first began attending the ecological class, my father was always nagging me and saying I was putting aside more appropriate tasks to go every day to look at frogs, and how could that lead anywhere?" laughs Kuan Yu-fu, one of those certified as a nature guide.

The doubts expressed by Kuan's father were initially shared by many other residents of Taumi. However, as the idea of the Taumi ecological village has progressed from chanting slogans to taking concrete shape, the skepticism of local residents is gradually turning into confidence.

Nature classroom

Today, Taumi has become one enormous nature classroom.

In April, when the tung tree blossoms bloom, Taumi is a sea of snow white. In May, pink wild peonies crop up along the mountain trails. In June, wild ginger lilies in the western part of the community begin to give off a sweet fragrance. August, meanwhile, is when the Nakai podocarp tree-"the official tree of Taumi neighborhood" and a species unique to Taiwan-begins to fruit, presenting a remarkable picture of mixed red and green seeds and seed receptacles. In addition, the dikes around Taumi have been planted with Japanese creeper and seashore vine morning glory in order to green the environment.

Given the fact that most of the trees planted along streets, in yards and gardens, and in planters in Taiwan are from abroad, beginning in January of 2001 the New Homeland Association, subsidized by the Council of Labor Affairs and the "Taumi Ecological Tourism Model Development Plan" of the Council of Agricultural Affairs, hired 25 unemployed people from Taumi to begin the task of propagating native Taiwan plant species. "Other communities waste their funds on trivial tasks like sweeping the dust off the street, while we plant trees!" says one proud Taumi resident.

Currently Taumi has seven seedling nurseries in which local residents propagate seedlings for native Taiwan species they have chosen themselves. They plan to cultivate 50 varieties and 50,000 plants. Besides being used to beautify the community, they can also become ecological models and their use can be promoted into other communities or in schools or institutions. Wu Chun-ching, who is chief of the team coordinating these activities, used to be a lumberjack. He says that planting trees now is a kind of "penance" and "giving back." Interestingly, Wu, who never planted a tree in his life, turns out to have a green thumb, and his plants are thriving so well they are overwhelming him, so he hopes that people who need plants will hurry to his door and ask for some.

In addition, the swampland of Taumi, which was a barrier to cultivation in the past, is producing a higher value than any crop.

Based on the natural lay of the land, the wetlands of Taumi are divided into eight zones, such as the Tsaonan Wetlands Area, the Maopukeng Creek Wetlands Area, and so on. Everywhere you can see frogs and birds, and dragonflies dance through the air.

"Frogs are the smallest of vertebrates, and if you look closely here...." Chiu Fu-tuen, a frog guide, calculates that if 20 groups come per day, then this stretch of wetlands has a productivity of NT$20,000. "The production value of a single frog could be tens of thousands per month!" he concludes.

Some people may worry that with more than 100 ponds of various sizes, Taumi could be a breeding ground for mosquitoes that carry dengue fever, which has been a serious problem this summer. In fact, says Peng Kuo-tung, a researcher and secretary of the Chi Chi Wildlife Conservation Center, "it's exactly the opposite." Wetlands have their own mechanisms to maintain equilibrium. Dragonflies and tadpoles eat a lot of mosquito larvae, so that mosquitoes cannot reproduce in huge numbers. It seems that as long as human beings do not wreck nature's own balancing mechanisms, there is nothing to worry about.

Rock bridge

In order to build the dream of the Taumi ecological village, the town has also organized an "autonomous construction team." They are using techniques of environmental engineering that remain as close as possible to nature itself to construct vistas, trying to find a road that is unique to Taumi.

For example, the ecological pond, the shade pavilion, and the walking trail are all made with local natural materials such as bamboo, stone, and wood, and have all been constructed using local manpower.

After the September 21 earthquake, even as others were using steel and concrete to "reinforce" their surrounding environment, the people of Taumi adopted a contrary direction. This has raised many doubts, especially with regard to the river dikes upon which the safety of the residents depends. On one stretch of the Maopukeng Creek of about 150 meters, the autonomous construction team used environmental engineering methods, first shoring up the bank with a small amount of concrete, and then piling up stones and boulders on the bank to create a natural looking environment. "We're not very certain ourselves that this will be completely problem-free," admits team leader Chung Chin-fa. Their goal is simply to minimize danger while also taking into account the environment and accessibility to the river.

Taumi's most well-known scenic spots-including the "rattan lane in the forest," no less than ten "rock-a-bye bridges" made from bamboo, the "concert hall" made of bamboo and rice straw, the bamboo frog, and the "floating dragonfly cages" in ponds-were designed entirely by the autonomous construction team and completed using environmental engineering techniques. "Every time I come here, the residents of Taumi hurry to show me their latest creations. Moreover, the more they do the better they feel and the more confident they become," says Liao Mei-hua, who visits Taumi once every few weeks and who has been designated an "honorary resident."

Making friends

Since Taumi is promoting ecological tourism, naturally management of homestays is an important link in the chain. So far eight homestays, each with its own character, have passed the necessary training and rigorous certification process. Most of the homestays in Taumi also operate ecological guided tours, and some even have restaurants boasting "the taste your mother used to make" and "down home country cooking," giving one a sense of warmth.

"The key to running a homestay successfully is to make friends with the guests," says Liu Ming-huan, vice director of the Taumi community development association and manager of the "Home on the Water" homestay. Homestays are different from hotels in that they have fewer amenities, but make up for this by offering more local information and personal warmth. Owners must try to give guests the sense that they have come home. Liu points out that to maintain quality, it would be best to keep the number of guests at less than 50.

Just the beginning

Thanks to the efforts of the people of Taumi and assistance from various outside sources, Taumi ecological village is beginning to take concrete form. Liao Chia-chan and Peng Kuo-tung have some thoughts on the whole thing.

"Things get very complicated once community work gets underway," admits Liao. It is no easy feat to take a "motley crew" of people of different professions and backgrounds and get them to work together for the community. In the particular case of Taumi, there is a shortage of planning skills, and there are also the inevitable conflicts of interest, so it is necessary to have continual education and mediation.

Peng Kuo-tung, who pointed the way toward the "ecological village" concept at the very beginning, declares: "Community work must be led by the community itself. Outside experts can only provide some ideas and assistance, but cannot make decisions for the community." Liao Chia-chan agrees that once the community achieves a certain level of capability, it will take charge of its own fate. At that time, the influence of outside experts should decline.

"Taumi is the community that accepted information and inspiration from outside experts the earliest," says Liao, who as chairman of the New Homeland Association has taken charge of the Council for Cultural Affairs' No. 2 Community Construction Center and is responsible for guiding 15 communities in seven townships and rural townships. As a result the residents of Taumi had a clear consensus and vision for the future. "Finding a direction is not easy," concludes Liao, so Taumi is quite lucky compared to a lot of other communities that are still groping in the dark.

Can we then say that the construction of Taumi environmental village is a success? "It's still way too early to tell," avers Peng Kuo-tung. Even after community elites agree to join in and slowly build up a consensus, community construction is still a very long road, and it can take 20 or 30 years just to see preliminary results. However, while recognizing that everything is just beginning, the people of Taumi are confident that they are on the right path. They invite you to come on down yourself to help them build a home filled with the beauty of nature.

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The man who is leading Taumi towards the goal of becoming an "Ecological Village," New Homeland Foundation President Liao Chia-chan, says that the whole process has been like treading on the rock-a-bye bridge that was built by the autonomous construction team-despite swaying a bit, his heart has remained steadfast.

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Nestled in the most remote mountainous regions of Puli Township, Taumi lies at an altitude of 420 to 770 meters above sea level, and this high-altitude topography fosters a rich diversity of animal life. Taumi's reputation is not unwarranted, as it is truly a "treasure mountain."

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Left to right are the variegated skimmer, the green pond frog, the common damselfly, guenther's frog, and the scarlet skimmer.

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Wetland ecology abounds in diversity. According to a study, Taumi is home to 19 frog species, 42 dragonfly species, and 60 avian species.

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Taumi currently has eight homestays. Though they differ in style and appearance, they all possess one common trait: the amicability of their hosts. The homestay shown here is "Home on the Water."

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The autonomous construction team built a wooden dragonfly of their own design which blends subtly with its wetland surroundings. Passengers take on the semblance of a graceful dragonfly as they zip by.

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Bamboo shoots are Taumi's principal cash crop. In recent years prices have dropped, which has in turn put a damper on production levels.

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Taumi has a total of seven seedling nurseries in which local residents cultivate indigenous Taiwan species. Besides personal use, they also welcome use by other communities, organizations, and schools.

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Bearing the emotional wounds of the 9/21 earthquake, the people of Taumi have set out afresh, putting their all into preservation of regional ecology.

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A memorial hall is scheduled to be completed in mid-October to commemorate the 9/21 earthquake. The hall will be built about the old Futungkung Activity Center, which was severely damaged by the quake, serving as a structural brace for the older building. Holding the model of the new memorial hall structure is architect Chen Hui-min.

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Community work is complicated, and conflict is difficult to avoid. The community leaders have already succeeded in establishing group consensus.