The ancient grace and splendor of the Tataocheng district in Taipei is today overlooked by modern high-rise commercial buildings. Foreign tourists visiting the area may well be reminded of such Western counterparts as the old French quarter of New Orleans.

Originally populated by aborigines of the Chinwuchu tribe, the district was not opened up until the beginning of the Ching dynasty, when the Han people moved in to cultivate the land. At that time, an elevated area was set aside amid the paddy fields for people to dry their rice. This accounts for the name of Tataocheng, which means literally "the great paddy field," or in another context, "rice river," the allusion being to its situation on the banks of the Tamsui River.

Today, the area is roughly bounded by the North Gate in the south, Taipei Bridge in the north, the Tamsui River in the West and the Circle Restaurants in the east.

The first company in the area, doing business with Amoy and Hong Kong, was established by Lin Lantien on what is today Tihua Street. The great turning point in the area's growth came eight years later when the Hsia-hai Temple was erected in honor of the City God. The ensuing population increase and trade boom enabled Tataocheng to outshine its neighboring trading center, Wanhua, which together with Lukang and Tainan further south were the most prosperous cities in Taiwan. Later, as the waterfront at Wanhua was silted up, Tataocheng became even more important as a shipping center.

In 1887. Taiwan Governor Liu Ming-chuan designated Tataocheng as an enclave for foreign businessmen to accelerate the development of northern Taiwan. From then on, businessmen and ships from all over the world converged on the harbor, and Tataocheng became even more prosperous.

Changes in fortune. During this period of rapid development, Governor Liu encouraged residents of the area to erect Western-style buildings for rental to foreign businessmen. They responded by constructing several business premises in the Dutch style of architecture.

As tea planting and trading were the economic life blood of the Tataocheng district, Governor Liu helped traders to organize an association to promote the industry further and set up standards of conduct. The predominance of the tea trade lasted well into the period of the Japanese occupation of Taiwan. During the harvest season, women could be seen everywhere picking tea, carrying baskets full of leaves, and packing the harvest into bags. Side-by-side, a busy trade in cloth, seafood, rice and other cargo was carried on.

As Tataocheng gradually became the pivot of external trade in northern Taiwan, restaurants, clubs and inns were established to provide services for businessmen. Classical Chinese music performances put on by beautiful geisha girl attendants attracted artists as well as business men. One of these artists was patriotic poet, Lien Ya-tang, who fell in love with one of the girls, Wang Hsian-chan, who was noted for her skill in writing poetry.

With the construction of several new roads after Taiwan was restored to the Republic of China, the advantages that the Tamsui River and the railway gave to Tataocheng, became overshadowed. As rickshaws were replaced by motor vehicles, the narrow alleys in the district became a handicap to further commercial development.

For tourists, however, Tataocheng today is filled with nostalgic charm. Two-story Dutch buildings erected on either side of narrow shaded alleys are favorite subjects for photographers. One of the western-style buildings owned by tea-planter Lee Chun-sheng provides a good reminder of the area's former elegance. Latticed balconies and arched windows are evidence that it was designed by the Dutch. Lee points out that all the red bricks and timber used in the building were imported from Fukien province on the China mainland. An open patio connects the front and rear of the building, constructed in the style of the southern Yangtse River area.

Highlights: Yenping North Road is today the main shopping street in Tataocheng district, particularly noted for its stores selling jewelry, wedding gowns and tailor-made suits. Many of the shops, such as the Jung-an jewelry store are more than 100 years old.

The area stretching from Chung-king North Road to the Circle Restaurants is noted for its small restaurants and stalls selling a wide variety of bric-a-brac. The area really comes to life at night, when thousands of people converge to dine at the restaurants and surrounding eateries. Noted for its fine flavor and low cost, the food served in this area in the Mainland, Taiwan and Japanese styles, is favored by gourmets as well as ordinary citizens of Taipei.

As most of the residents of the Tataocheng area immigrated from southern Fukien province, they have set up temples at street corners to honor their special gods. Since its establishment, the classical and dignified Hsia-hai Temple has always commanded a wide following. On the birthday of the City God on the 13th day of the fifth month on the lunar calendar, people from all over the island make a pilgrimage to the temple for a special ceremony. Second only to the Hsia-hai Temple in importance is the temple devoted to Fa-chu, whose birthday falls on the 23rd day of the sixth month.

The Chen-en or North Gate dates back to the Ching Dynasty. At one time, anyone passing through its portals would find himself in the wilderness. Today, the area is traversed by a newly built over-pass which links Tataocheng with the downtown Hsimenting area. Looking from this highway, it is easy to take in the area's motley appearance. The office building of the Taiwan Railway Administration, built during the time of Liu Ming-chuan, still stands side-by-side with modern high-rise buildings, lit brightly at night by neon signs.

When the Chunghsiao Bridge is completed, traffic between Tataocheng and the satellite city of Taipei, Sanchung, will be speeded up. The Tamsui River, which flows peace-fully alongside the area, symbolizes the smooth future foreseen for the Tataocheng area, even if a few ripples do occur now and then.

[Picture Caption]

1. A bird's eye view of the Tataocheng district with Mt. Kuangin (Goddess of Mercy) and the Tamsui River in the background. 2. The site of Tataocheng wharves which existed a hundred years ago. 3. An old city gate, Cheng-en, is still preserved. The two-floor buildings at the back of the gate were built as machine shop in the era of Governor Liu Ming-chuan. Now, they house the offices of the Taiwan Railway Administration. 4. Tataocheng as seen from the Chengen Gate before the city wall was dismantled. 5. A view of the old Taipei Railway Station located at the edge of the Tataocheng district.

1. A new bridge spanning the Tamsui River will be completed soon. 2. Yenping North Road in the Tataocheng district is noted for its jewelry shops and beautiful arched corridors which still remain from bygone days . 3. There are several modern tourist hotels in Yenping North Road. 4. Ancient and modern buildings form a sharp contrast in Yenping North Road. 5. This is the site of the once famous geisha house, Chiangshan Pavilion. The pavilion was demolished to make way for modern business offices and parks.

1 & 2. Old and new views of the Circle Restaurants. 3. Wholesale groceries line Tihua Street, where unusual foods are available. 4. Eateries and a night market on Chungking North Road. 5. An old parking lot at Tataocheng has become the site of modern buildings. 6. These brick houses at the intersection of Tihua Street and Kueisui Street are favorite subjects for painters.

1. The house of another prosperous tea merchant, Li Chun-sheng. The arch windows give the building a Western flavor. 2. A widened road cuts through the big yard of Li's house. 3. The stairs and balustrades of Li's house are part of the beautiful ancient building. 4. The inner patio captures the elegance of southern Yangtze Style architecture.

The site of Tataocheng wharves which existed a hundred years ago.

An old city gate, Cheng-en, is still preserved. The two-floor buildings at the back of the gate were built as machine shop in the era of Governor Liu Ming-chuan. Now, they house the offices of the Taiwan Railway Administration.

Tataocheng as seen from the Chengen Gate before the city wall was dismantled.

A view of the old Taipei Railway Station located at the edge of the Tataocheng district.

A new bridge spanning the Tamsui River will be completed soon.

Yenping North Road in the Tataocheng district is noted for its jewelry shops and beautiful arched corridors which still remain from bygone days .

This is the site of the once famous geisha house, Chiangshan Pavilion. The pavilion was demolished to make way for modern business offices and parks.

Ancient and modern buildings form a sharp contrast in Yenping North Road.

3. Wholesale groceries line Tihua Street, where unusual foods are available.

4. Eateries and a night market on Chungking North Road.

1 & 2. Old and new views of the Circle Restaurants.

1 & 2. Old and new views of the Circle Restaurants.

An old parking lot at Tataocheng has become the site of modern buildings.

.

These brick houses at the intersection of Tihua Street and Kueisui Street are favorite subjects for painters.

The house of another prosperous tea merchant, Li Chun-sheng. The arch windows give the building a Western flavor.

A widened road cuts through the big yard of Li's house.

The stairs and balustrades of Li's house are part of the beautiful ancient building.

The inner patio captures the elegance of southern Yangtze Style architecture.