Shakespeare once debated the fragrant merits of the rose if called by another name. The Chinese have no such problem with the versatile ling chiao plant which has enjoyed as many as four different appellations. Not commonly known in the west, the ling chiao (water caltrop) has enjoyed a long history in China and Japan.

According to early records, the ling chiao was cultivated as a worship offering as early as Chou dynasty times (1122 B.C.). An aquatic plant, the ling chiao became a vital source of livelihood for those people dwelling in lake regions. The starchy, nutritious fruit became a food staple: cooked as congee, ground into a flour for cakes and eaten raw as a fruit. In times of famine and drought it was a major source of relief.

Encased in a dark red outer shell that is somewhat enlongated in shape, tapering into pointed, horn-like ends, the fruit was called "chiao" which translates as horn or point. Li Shih-chen in his Ming dynasty botany volume, the "Pen Ts'ao Kang Mu" described the leaves as being separated from each other on branch-like shoots called "chi." Therefore the plant was often referred to as "chi." The "ling" portion of the name comes from a phonetic equivalent which also means angle or corner, hence the fusion of the two words, ling chiao.

The ling chiao is a member of the grass family. It is an annual plant and grows exclusively in an aquatic environment. Ideal water conditions average between 30 and 120 cm in depth. The long, slender leafstalks are marked by a slightly inflated portion which acts as an air bladder, floating on the surface of the water. A small flower blooms at the juncture of where the leaf and stem meet. When the petals fall off and the fruit begins to form, the fruit stem then develops beneath the surface of the water. The fruit favors growth in warm water temperatures, averaging around 18-25 degrees centigrade. Direct exposure to sunlight is detrimental to growth, thus the natural adaptation to growth underwater.

Like its more renowned cousin the lotus, the ling chiao flourishes in the warm, humid regions of China south of the Yangtze River, especially in the provinces of Kiangsu and Chekiang. Lacking the arresting beauty of the lotus, the rather unassuming ling chiao has not been immortalized in the annals of Chinese poetry. Its fruit, however, has earned a place in the hearts and appetites of Chinese everywhere for its many gastronomic and medicinal uses.

On Taiwan, the plant thrives best from the region south of Chiayi, in central Taiwan. Originally grown for personal consumption, farmers grew the hardy ling chiao in fishponds. Government moves to encourage diversification of crops other than rice led to an expansion in production, and today over 2,000 hectares are given over to its cultivation. The primary growing areas are: Minhsiung, Tungshih, Matou, Kuant'ien, Tsoying, Kangshan and Linpien. Kuant'ien ranks as the area with the greatest cultivation of ling chiao. Hsu T'ien-ch'ing, director of the Kuant'ien Farmer's Organization states the plant is not only hardy but grows quickly. Cultivation costs are much lower than those for rice, while return on yield is comparatively high. Rice, however, is an important staple, while ling chiao is basically a snack food. Farmers often will plant portions of their rice paddies in ling chiao during the second rice crop or plant it in irrigation ditches.

Seedlings (from the previous season's crop) are planted in June of each year. The flower blossoms about 45 days later, and the fruit about one month thereafter. Initial harvesting begins in mid-August and occurs with 12 to 15 day interval breaks until mid-November. Outfitted in protective attire (hats, boots, and gloves) the farmer harvests the fruit in small boats. These specially designed craft average 200 centimeters in length and are about 120 centimeters in width. When harvesting, the farmer stands at the front of the boat and piles the picked fruit in the back end. Picking is a relatively simple procedure--the farmer pulls up the stalk and examines it for any ripe fruit. The final batch of fruit harvested will provide the following season's seedlings. Ponds are then cleaned of the plant debris.

Harvested ling chiao are placed in large tubs where they are washed and further separated. Mature fruit, being somewhat heavier will sink, while the lighter, softer immature fruit float on the surface. Local buyers come to purchase ripe fruit which is then steamed and sold as a popular snack food in markets. The softer kernels are shelled and then sold to local buyers who in turn sell them to housewives who utilize their tender flavors in preparing delectable soups.

Nutritionally the ling chiao is high in carbohydrates (starch), water, protein, calcium, phosphorus and vitamins. It can be eaten raw as a snack or used as an ingredient in many delicious soups and maincourse dishes. Kan Wei-sung, a professor at the Chinese College of Medicine states that eaten raw, the fruit aids digestion while the leaves, stalks and shell are useful in the production of medicine. The fruit is also ground into a starchy powder which can be spread on scars, and is also the secret ingredient in curing intoxication. Japanese research has taken the potential use of the ling chiao into new areas with claims of its effective use in combating various forms of cancer.

Locally, the Kuant'ien Farmer's Association has been promoting the use of the ling chiao through such events as taste meetings, where ling chiao food dishes are tested, and in other projects like researching canning methods.

Long a useful foodstuff to the Chinese, the versatile ling chiao offers even greater promise in both food and medicine for future generations.

(Gerald Hatherly)

[Picture Caption]

The harvesting of the ling chiao has been an integral part of traditional life for lakeside dwelling inhabitants in China for over 1,000 years. 1. Women harvest the fruit amidst the dense growth of plants in Kuant'ien. 2. A Ching dynasty (1644-1911 AD) painting depicting the ling chiao harvest in the region south of the Yangtze River.

1. The delicate, white blossom of the ling chiao is given protective cover by the plant's shade leaves. 2. Flashing a smile of gold teeth, this farmer holds a string of fruit-bearing ling chiao plants aloft. 3. The freshly picked ling chiao fruit must first be placed in wooden baskets and washed thoroughly before being transported to market for sale. 4. Hot ling chiao for sale! This female hawker has even spilt the fruit's center shell for the customer. 5. Freshly shelled ling chiao is usually bought by housewives who use the fruit as an ingredient in delicious soups.

Ling Chiao is rich in starch, and is an ideal ingredient in hearty soups and main-course dishes: 1. delicious ling chiao spare-rib soup, and 2. a delectable looking dish of fried ling chiao rounds.

2. A Ching dynasty （1644-1911 AD） painting depicting the ling chiao harvest in the region south of the Yangtze River.

1. The delicate, white blossom of the ling chiao is given protective cover by the plant's shade leaves.

2. Flashing a smile of gold teeth, this farmer holds a string of fruit-bearing ling chiao plants aloft.

3. The freshly picked ling chiao fruit must first be placed in wooden baskets and washed thoroughly before being transported to market for sale.

4. Hot ling chiao for sale! This female hawker has even spilt the fruit's center shell for the customer.

5. Freshly shelled ling chiao is usually bought by housewives who use the fruit as an ingredient in delicious soups.

Ling Chiao is rich in starch, and is an ideal ingredient in hearty soups and main-course dishes: 1. delicious ling chiao spare-rib soup, and.

2. a delectable looking dish of fried ling chiao rounds.