Vegetarian Food--Not Just For Vegetarians

Strictly speaking, what we are seeing might be considered a form of "counterfeiting"--only this kind infringes nobody's patent. Spread out on the table before us are some exquisite dishes. First, thinly sliced petals of succulent "squid" nestled in red hot peppers, light-green celery, and nut-brown almonds. Then, thumb-sized cubes of diced "chicken," moist and golden, giving off a mouth-watering peppery fragrance. Finally, stir-fried "eel" in paste and a seafood bowl, replete with "shrimp" and "shark's fin." This at a vegetarian restaurant?

Revealing the secret may draw a smile. The squid is made from carrot juice and vegetarian sea-cucumber powder; the chicken and eel are mushrooms, sliced and dressed; the seafood, agar--all genuine, 100-percent vegetarian ingredients.

In the past, most people who were vegetarians were so for reasons of religion, philosophy, or tradition. But nowadays more and more people eat vegetarian-style for their health, for variety, and for a change of taste. According to the latest figures, Taiwan now has over 100,000 vegetarians and about 500 vegetarian restaurants, up from 100 just ten years ago.

While vegetarians are in the distinct minority today, mankind's ancestors, according to scientists, were originally plant eaters, a belief reflected in Greek, Egyptian, and Hebrew myths. Buddha's prohibition on meat-eating to avoid retribution for the taking of animal life led his followers to develop two forms of vegetarianism: the protracted kind, involving complete, long-term abstinence; and the limited kind, practiced at certain times of the day, month, or year.

Dr. Sun Yat-sen, founding father of the ROC, pointed out the health advantages of the traditional Chinese diet of rice, tea, and vegetables. And now modern medicine corroborates the benefits of a vegetarian diet. An article in Reader's Digest even claimed that vegetarianism can "protect the heart, control weight, and reduce the risk of cancer."

With so much going for it, why then does vegetarian food "counterfeit" meat dishes? It's scarcely avoidable under the circumstances, some would say. First, vegetarianism reminds people too much of the ascetic rigors of fasting monks; and secondly, the price and variety of vegetable ingredients are not as great as those of meat dishes--so vegetarian food doesn't seem the proper way of treating a guest to dinner. It is to overcome these psychological obstacles that the proprietors of vegetarian restaurants produce the elaborate imitations of meat dishes that they do.

Their task is made none the easier by a widely known but unwritten rule of vegetarian cooking which permits the use of three foods from the sea--all seaweeds--but prohibits the use of three from the mountains--the important seasonings green onions, leeks, and garlic. All animal lards and oils are naturally taboo as well. But just because of these restrictions, vegetarian chefs must display greater ingenuity in slicing, seasoning, and cooking than their more orthodox counterparts. Most of the first-rate vegetarian chefs in Taiwan, in fact, got their start in standard, non-vegetarian cooking.

"Taking mushrooms, soybeans, bamboo shoots, and bean sprouts and turning them into chicken, duck, and fish is a real brain-buster," says Chao Ch'i-cheng, a chef with over ten years experience. In fact, full-course dinners can be made from just beancurd, eggplants, or pumpkins, a culinary feat besides which the much-ballyhooed "eight ways of eating one fish" of some restaurants pales in comparison.

Vegetarian restaurants come in all different styles, from Chinese (with Cantonese, Chekiang, and Taiwanese varieties) to Japanese and Western. Chinese establishments, in turn, run the gamut from the low-price cafeterias favored by students and young Westerners to formal, fancy restaurants serving exotic dishes like mustard and "eel," bird's-nest soup, pine ears--and fried "chicken." Some restaurants provide an additional service: right in the dining hall is a statue of a bodhisattva where patrons can burn incense free of charge.

Western-style vegetarian restaurants, like the Chinese, often go the way of imitations. "Soup, bread, and salad are no problem, but the main course is a bomb," admits one candid proprietor, who vividly describes a typical customer's reaction: "He fights his way through all the rigmarole of a Western dinner, one course after another, and when he finally gets to the main dish, all it is a piece of cheap veggie chicken--what a letdown!" Among the more successful Western imitations are "pork" chops made from layered bean curd slices and the "veggieburger," complete with ketchup, cheese, and parsley.

Japanese-style vegetarian food has a lighter taste and simpler preparation than the Chinese and Western styles. The greatest challenge here lies in imitating seafood dishes, in which the three permitted seaweeds mentioned above play a prominent role.

Despite the proven health advantages of eating vegetarian foods, many people still worry whether it may lead to poor nutrition. "Eating just one kind of any food can indeed cause malnutrition," warns Li Ying, nutrition director at Taiwan Adventist Hospital, which serves vegetarian food to its patients and staff. "But if you understand the secret of vegetarian eating, there's no problem," says Tri-Service General Hospital's nutrition advisor, Chang Hsien-p'ing. "The important key is in putting together the right foods." Chang points out that just as an orchestra is made up of woodwinds, strings, brass, and percussion, so a balanced diet must include food from each of the basic food groups. Beans, nuts, eggs, and milk belong to the same group as meat and can provide many of the same nutrients. Chang Le-ch'i, nutrition director at Taiwan Veterans' General, recommends that vegetarians take a daily multiple vitamin, just to be on the safe side.

From an economical standpoint, vegetarianism can't be beat. But the most important consideration for most of us is eating well, according to our body's needs and individual tastes. If munching hunks of meat seems a little bit crude to you sometimes and greasy soups start getting to your stomach, you might want to try a vegetarian meal for a welcome change of taste.

[Picture Caption]

As expressed in the glowing spirits of this 90-year-old Buddhist nun, the merits of vegetarianism would appear to be considerable.

One of the secrets of vegetarian eating is aptly matching grains and legumes.

A western vegetarian meal prepared by experts at Taiwan Adventist Hospital is well received by this young Western mother.

Many yoga sects advocate vegetarianism. This yoga master's favorite vegetarian food is the mango.

Veterans' General nutritionist Chang Le-ch'i recommends that vegetarians eat dairy products to get a better balanced diet.

The pleasant atmosphere and tasteful appointments of western vegetarian restaurants are the equal of any traditional steak house.

Two vegetarian dishes. Above is "Double Flavors Silver Cluster" ("shrimp" and taro balls); below is "eel" in paste.

As expressed in the glowing spirits of this 90-year-old Buddhist nun, the merits of vegetarianism would appear to be considerable.

A western vegetarian meal prepared by experts at Taiwan Adventist Hospital is well received by this young Western mother.

Many yoga sects advocate vegetarianism. This yoga master's favorite vegetarian food is the mango.

Veterans' General nutritionist Chang Le-ch'i recommends that vegetarians eat dairy products to get a better balanced diet.

Two vegetarian dishes. Above is "Double Flavors Silver Cluster" （"shrimp" and taro balls.

below is "eel" in paste.

The pleasant atmosphere and tasteful appointments of western vegetarian restaurants are the equal of any traditional steak house.