Renaissance of millet culture
We next visit a woman named Ou Chun-hsiang, who practices subsistence farming in the Ngudra-drekai indigenous community in Jinfeng Township and is known as the “seed saving grandma.” We find the 68-year-old Ou, whose clothes cover her from head to foot to shield her from the sun, in her millet fields, waving around a home-made plastic flag to chase away birds.
Ou, whose Rukai name is Iruane, currently preserves 16 different varieties of millet, including several that would otherwise have been lost. Iruane has taken on the responsibility of naming the varieties, based on their lineage. She has always refused to sell to wholesalers, and says with characteristic indigenous humor: “I have barely enough left after giving most of it to friends and family and providing it for use in ceremonies. There are 365 days in a year, and I work 366, but I’m very happy! Each variety of millet has its own use in daily life. For example, white millet can be given to new mothers during their postpartum month of rest, or to people just recovering from major illnesses, whereas gray millet is used in traditional Chinese medicine.”
Lanpaw Kalijuvung, a Paiwan hunter from the Tjuabal indigenous community in Daren Township, received an ear of grain (a lialieman) from Iruane. Lanpaw explains, “I’m working to plant up a whole field with the grain from that ear, and in two years I will give Iruane back two ears, one to thank her and the other to thank God.” It is through exchanges and gifts of this kind that different varieties of millet survive.
“Millet is our almanac, and our calculations of the important days of the year revolve around millet.” “Millet is an important crop for celebrations and rituals, especially the harvest festival.” “Millet is like genes, every family keeps its own variety.” “Millet is a food: we use it to make cinavu and abai [two traditional dishes], as well as millet wine.” In these sentences Lanpaw briefly explains the importance of millet to indigenous cultures.
As Reverend Sakinu Tepiq puts it: “Our generation has experienced a sense of inferiority and been subjected to prejudice. The revival of millet culture and of seasonal rituals can help give the younger generation in indigenous communities a stronger sense of identity, and they can confidently invite outsiders to come and get to know their communities and learn the wisdom of millet culture.” This is something that he didn’t foresee back when he started resuming the cultivation of millet.
Not only is Taiwan millet good for the digestion, but the plan to revive millet cultivation is meaningful for the economy, cultural continuity, and environmental sustainability of indigenous communities. Once the Covid-19 pandemic recedes, why not visit indigenous villages in southern Taitung, try some millet-based cuisine and sweets, and experience the rich cultural significance of millet?
The East Rift Valley, which runs through Hualien and Taitung, is an important production area for millet.
Different varieties of millet have been used for different purposes in Aboriginal life.
Gabi Chou founded the brand “Aboriginal Cereal Legend” and sells its products at markets and online, broadening sales channels for indigenous grains.
Abai and cinavu are traditional indigenous foods made using millet. They are served as treats at weddings or when friends and family come to visit.
Farmers sing the millet harvest song when harvesting millet to thank God for protecting the crop.