In the traditions of the Shanghai style of cuisine, a meal is not considered complete without a dish of crab. As more and more people have become able to afford this delicious and nutritious food, the supply of crabs has dwindled. To meet the rising demand in homes and restaurants, therefore, a flourishing crab culture industry has arisen in Taiwan.

The culture of crabs in fact began more than 50 years ago, during the period of the Japanese occupation of the island. At that time, crabs were often cultivated alongside milkfish in farms scattered in the coastal districts of Pingtung, Tainan, Chiayi and Yunlin counties. Farms specializing solely in crabs have only been established in recent years, as it was realized that fertilized female crabs can fetch a much higher price.

The average crab pond covers an area of about 3,000 square meters, wit h the bottom usually paved with sand. A one-meter-wide gutter at the end of the pond is served to trap the crabs when water of the pond is emptied. The water in the pond is maintained at 2.5 meters deep, while salinity is 20 to 30 percent. Each pond is equipped with a pump to keep it filled with salt or fresh water.

Since so far all efforts to breed crabs in captivity have failed, crab spawn must be collected from the sea. After being fed on snails and fish for two or three months, the crabs start to mate. Because fertilized female crabs fetch a much higher price, they are collected and sold to a specialized farm. Crabs fed with fresh-water snails turn bright red when cooked, and are particularly prized among gourmets. Male crabs are sold when they reach a width of about 10 centimeters. If they are allowed to mate more than three times, their shells become dark and hard, and their flesh is tough.

Because crabs need constant supervision, their culture is not an easy task. The supply of snails for their diet is also limited. But as standards of living have risen, and seafood restaurants have become more popular, crab farmers are assured of a handsome profit. Among the many such farmers who have become millionaires is Wu Chung-yi of Tungkang in Pingtung County in southern Taiwan.

Wu's farm was established 15 years ago by his father, Wu Ching-ching. Since then it has been expanded from an area of 100 square meters to 50,000 square meters. Wu Ching-ching's three sons have become masters at the trade since they took over the business several years ago. They have learned how to minimize the death rate among crabs, and they can grow bigger fertilized crabs in a much shorter period. As their reputation spread far and wide, they made a fortune from their business.

The Wu brothers start to gather their haul at 5 a.m., and bind the crabs' legs and bodies together with straw. The morning catch is sold to customers south of Chiayi, while the afternoon catch is sent to Kaohsiung and from there to Taipei by the night train. The crabs reach Taipei's major restaurants by 1 a.m. Since the Wus supply the market with more than 10,000 crabs a day, it is no wonder they have been dubbed "crab kings".

Under Wu Chung-yi's supervision, the crabs are sold according to size. A crab with a width of more than 5 inches is regarded as large, and fetches a price of NT$210 (US$5.80). It is resold by a restaurant in Taipei for as much as NT$450. A crab with a width of less than 5 inches is regarded as medium size, and sells for NT$160, while a small crab of less than 4.4 inches brings NT$110. The minimum price in a restaurant is like ly to be NT$250 per crab.

Says Wu matter-of-factly: "I am prosperous because the people are prosperous. Without the high standard of living in Taiwan, who could afford to buy my crabs?"

[Picture Caption]

1. The serrated type of crab is most prized by Chinese gourmets because of its delicious meat and nutritious roe. 2. As serrated crabs are in short supply, Taiwan farmers have begun to cultivate them in coastal areas. 3. Water is drained to harvest adult crabs.

1. Crabs bring a high market price for farmers. 2. Fertilized crabs being examined in the sun to determine the quantity of their eggs. A crab filled with roe can command a high price. 3. A fertilized crab is also cal led a red crab. Its red eggs are said to be rich in hormones. 4. Serrate d crabs stewed together with glutinous rice, mushroom, onion, ginger and three other ingredients in a dish known as "crabs with eight treasures. "

As serrated crabs are in short supply, Taiwan farmers have begun to cultivate them in coastal areas.

Water is drained to harvest adult crabs.

Crabs bring a high market price for farmers.

Fertilized crabs being examined in the sun to determine the quantity of their eggs. A crab filled with roe can command a high price.

A fertilized crab is also cal led a red crab. Its red eggs are said to be rich in hormones.

Serrate d crabs stewed together with glutinous rice, mushroom, onion, ginger and three other ingredients in a dish known as "crabs with eight treasures. ".