An idiosyncratic granny
Lu Mei-huan points out that the activities termed jinxiang (“presenting incense”) and raojing (“touring the realm”)—both frequently translated as “pilgrimage”—are religious practices that traditionally held quite distinct meanings: In the past jinxiang marches involved devotees from a local temple proceeding to their deity’s “ancestral temple” or another temple of historical importance, where they would present burning incense as an act of respect to a senior deity. Raojing pilgrimages, on the other hand, conveyed the idea of important deities making tours of the regions over which they held authority. But today the meanings of these two religious observances have blurred. Temples no longer stress their relative ranks, taking instead a more egalitarian approach that emphasizes broad participation and friendship.
Having gone on the Mazu pilgrimages from both Dajia and Baishatun, Lu has observed how they each have their own quirks. The Jenn Lann Temple in Taichung’s Dajia is one of the most eminent Mazu temples in Taiwan. Every year, the deity’s pilgrimage sets off for the Fengtian Temple in Chiayi’s Xingang Township, where the two Mazu deities celebrate together. The 300-kilometer journey there and back takes nine days.
Lu notes that when the Dajia Mazu goes out on her pilgrimage, scouts (baomazai), temple flag bearers (touqi) and other leaders head up the parade. They are followed by all manner of performance troupes. Mazu’s palanquin, whose bearers wear Qing-style clothing, brings up the rear. There is rich meaning behind the arrangement of the procession, which is full of pomp and circumstance befitting the power and grace of this female deity.
Although belonging to just a small community temple, the Mazu of Baishatun’s Gongtian Temple has a great fondness for interacting with believers. Every year the deity travels more than 400 kilometers to the Chaotian Temple in Yunlin’s Beigang and back, passing through Miaoli, Taichung, Changhua and Yunlin. The route, moreover, isn’t fixed but rather changes each time, as the Baishatun Mazu directly interacts with locals by entering markets, schools, town halls and other places used by people in their daily lives.
In the third lunar month, the “Mazu craze” takes over Taiwan as the goddess’s pilgrimages hit the road, reinforcing social and religious ties. The photo shows the 2018 Baishatun Mazu Pilgrimage. (photo by Jimmy Lin)