Scenery from the local train
Sitting on the local as it shook and jiggled, I noticed that most of the other riders were elderly. Some of these grandfathers went so far as to stretch out on the seats for a nap. A grandmother had a shoulder pole with bamboo baskets full of vegetables that she was bringing to market. A few aboriginal women wearing broad-rimmed rain hats and carrying bamboo baskets got off in Tahsi on the way to odd jobs in nearby harbors. An old man walked through the car, announcing that he was selling taro ice, one scoop for NT$5. He told me that he had been selling ice on trains for 20 years.
Do you remember 20 years ago how this local used to be jam-packed? As soon as the train pulled into the station, adults were hoisting children in through the windows. The children would claim seats for their families by stretching out upon them.
Now, except for before and after school, passengers are sparse and the mood is laid back. It's no problem for one person to use two seats. While some people may specially choose the local for reasons of nostalgia, the equipment on the train is mostly old and dirty, causing many passengers to stop riding. It makes one wonder if "old" must equal "dilapidated." It's a point worth mulling over.
Through the tunnel
Continuing on south from Fulung, we entered a two-kilometer tunnel through Tsaoling. The old Tsaoling tunnel, should you want to explore it, is about a half-hour walk from the Fulung station on the small road that runs alongside the track.
Over its red brick portal are characters in cursive script that mean "Conquering the Natural Barrier." The phrase on the other side is "National Cloud Flying Place." Work began on the tunnel in 1932 and went on for three years. It posed the toughest engineering challenges for the construction of the Ilan line. "Before the North Link Railway was built, this was the longest tunnel in Taiwan," noted Tsai Yi-ju.
Before the tunnel, people had to use the old stone-paved Tsaoling trail to traverse the mountain. Today people walk the trail out of interest and to get exercise. The trail itself hasn't changed-but people's perspective has.
Imagine what it must have been like 72 years ago when the tunnel was completed and suddenly the Lanyang Plain was no longer isolated. As young and old alike approached the tunnel, how they must have shouted and jumped for joy! Hence the lyrics to a famous Taiwanese folk song, "The train, ah ma di da dew, goes through the tunnel, and the water drips down."
Of course there are many explanations regarding the origins of this song. Some say it is a love song. Others argue that it is a gambling song used when throwing coins. But most people say that the song is about this tunnel.
Fairy mountains in sea mists?
As soon as the train pulls out of the Tsaoling Tunnel, one has a wide view of the big, blue sea. The train winds along the coastline, and from out the window one can see the surging waves of the Pacific Ocean. When they break on the coast, they create beautiful flowers of surf. Turtle Mountain Island, which seems suspended in the water, is now in front, then behind. "When we were kids we all thought that the turtle was turning its head," said a Miss Tsai who grew up in Su-ao.
It turns out that the track takes a 180 degree bend right opposite Turtle Mountain Island, which results in the illusion that the turtle is turning its head. In any case, for the residents of Ilan, Turtle Mountain Island is a landmark close to their hearts. When a train pulls within view of the island, their spirits pick up, knowing they are nearing home.
Between the island and Toucheng is the famous Peikuan Scenic Area. The name Peikuan-or northern pass-comes from its easily defensible topography. It was considered of great strategic importance during the Qing dynasty.
Along the coast are the famous "tofu rock" formations. Because of the variable porosity of this sedimentary rock, the ocean waves have cut it into cubes that resemble chunks of tofu. They are so regular that one wonders if the waves, in working their erosion, first pulled out a measuring tape. If you'd like to visit Peikuan, you can board tour buses in Kuishan or Toucheng. Otherwise you can get off the train at Kuishan and walk along the coastal highway from there.
A forgotten city
Two centuries ago, Wu Sha led some 1000 unmarried men from Changzhou, Quanzhou and Guangzhou and landed at Wushih Harbor to make a settlement in the wilderness called Touwei (First Stockade), which is known today as Toucheng (First Town). It was indeed the first town in the Ilan area.
The city has now been virtually forgotten in the northern corner of the Lanyang Plain, but 100 years ago Wushih Harbor was the plain's busiest commercial port. The biggest marine transport merchants of the era were named Lu. Their shipping and grain storage business was known as the "Thirteenth Firm," and its headquarters still exists today. In front of the Western-style building is a pond, which was originally part of a river harbor. Then the channel silted up, leaving this pond. Gnarled old trees grow prettily along its banks.
If you come to Toucheng, you shouldn't miss its old street, now named Hoping (Peace) Street. At either end are shrines to the local earth gods, which are said to keep the wealth within.
The short street is lined with old shops, many of which are typically Chinese in architecture. It has first-floor covered arcades on its southern side and also a Japanese building which dates from the second decade of this century. There is a long row of pillars out front, and in front of the main gate are knee-high double doors. These buildings show the development of urban architecture over the last century in Taiwan. Yet today many of the windows and doors are shut tight, as if their occupants have long gone. Other structures have been replaced with tall modern buildings, creating regrettable incongruity.
While the prosperity of the boom years has gradually petered out, the festival on the last day of "ghost month" (the seventh month in the lunar calendar) still creates great hubbub once a year, when thousands of tourists flood into Toucheng to watch the traditional qiangku tower-climbing competitions.
Hot springs without the smell
With the day already coming to a close, we boarded the train once again and headed for Chiaohsi. We were staying in an area famous for hot springs, so we prepared to wash away the day's fatigue. With no less than 50 hot spring hotels lining the street on either side of the station, there was no need to worry about finding shelter. These hot springs are of the non-smelly, non-colored carbonic-acid type, and so when you turn on the tap and don't get that strong smell of sulfur, don't jump to the conclusion that the proprietor is trying to stiff you with just regular old hot water.
The next morning we rose bright and early to take a look around town. Next to the public baths is a large patch of vegetables, containing those famous Chiaohsi hot springs vegetables. Because the hot springs water of Chiaohsi contains lots of minerals, has a temperature suitable for vegetables, and flows year round, these vegetables thrive even when the cold weather comes.
Using hot springs water to irrigate water convoluvus makes it grow to great size without being overripe. The sponge gourds are plump and firm, and they won't go dark when cooked. The whites of the water oats are really white, and the greens truly green with absolutely no black bit at the core.
Chiaohsi has a Hsiehtien Temple, which is the largest temple devoted to the deity Kuan Kung in all of Northern Taiwan. The temple now in use was built in 1964, and its stage, which was originally at the door to the old temple, was built in 1925, making it the oldest wooden operatic stage in all of Taiwan.
But coming this time, we knew that the old stage would not be there for us to see, because the temple's committee had decided last July to tear it down on the grounds that it was too small. While there were many loud calls for preservation, the old stage couldn't escape the fate of removal, and today it sits abandoned in a warehouse made of metal sheeting behind the temple.
In recent years, with the rise of "educational tourism," tourists looking at guidebook maps on the trail of historical monuments have all too often found that historic structures have disappeared-not just torn down, but frequently gone without a trace.
The Su-ao cool springs
South from Chiaohsi, you pass the major stations of Ilan and Luotung, where most passengers either get on or off. The scenic vistas of the mountain towns have been replaced by views of city buildings. The tourist attractions in these two cities are far from the train stations, and weren't on this trip's itinerary.
Su-ao, the final stop on the Ilan line, is site of the Su-ao Cool Springs, which are famous all across Taiwan and even over all of Southeast Asia. Besides those of Venice, there are none like them in the world.
Here the water temperature stays at about 22_C. The water quality is clear and clean. It's a carbonic-acid spring, and is said to cure skin diseases and to make the skin beautiful. By adding sugar and spices, you can make an economical soft drink. If you wash in the hot springs of Chiaohsi and then make for the cool springs of Su-ao, then you really will have run the gamut from hot to cool.
There is a Taiwanese poem of 1700 characters that describes all of the stations from Taipei to Su-ao and spurs memories of our two-day, one-night railway trip to Su-ao and back: "The train leaves from Su-ao with a view of ocean waves' white surf. . . After Chiaohsi it's onto Tingpu, while the train keeps chugging along the track. . . . As Tingpu passes, we enter Toucheng, famous islandwide for its qiangku festival. . . . Then Wai-ao, Kengfang and Kuishan, fishing villages one and all. . . . After Shihcheng, we reach Fulungchuang and the province's second largest tunnel. . . . Through Santiao we come to Houtung, where the coal keeps falling through the chutes. . . . From Houtung on to Juifang-dig a hole to see who's the mining king. . . . After Nuannuan it's Patu, where we walk down an underpass to change trains. . . ."