A city with a diverse and rich history finds itself regaining some of its former grandeur and majesty. The road will not be easy for Chang Hua and her 200,000 inhabitants, but the new mayor is determined to bring back the past in order to enter the future. Chang Hua is situated in the central part of Taiwan where traditions change slowly, matching the pace of life there. That Chang Hua's development is slow is a reflection of the people. Being careful, conservative and perhaps liking it that way, has kept Chang Hua a few steps behind the hectic pace of life in larger cities.

Chang Hua Bank one of the 3 largest commercial banks in Taiwan, symbolizes the past and present of its birthplace perhaps better than any other institution in Chang Hua. The fact that the main office is no longer in Chang Hua illustrates the extent to which T'ai Chung has taken over as the area's commercial center. At the same time "the" bank has played an important role in the early history of the city. The bank was an extension of the earlier prosperity of the region. Ever since several wealthy landlords got together in establishing it, Chang Hua Bank has been active in areas of concern to the community. It has supported the arts financially for a long time. By purchasing pieces from local artists, the Chang Hua Bank has encouraged the art world to develop and expand. But eventually the city couldn't provide enough business for the bank and Chang Hua Bank decided to move to T'ai Chung.

Chang Hua originally prospered because of its proximity to Lu Kang. Lu Kang was one of the 3 largest ports in Taiwan during the Ching dynasty (1644-1911). Chang Hua was at the center of a transportation matrix with easy access to water and rail routes. These conditions helped make Chang Hua a leading commercial center. The fabric and hardware industry were doing a thriving business and agricultural products from the surrounding area soon found their way into Chang Hua's bustling market, supplying the commercial interests.

Then Chang Hua's fortunes began to take a turn that they haven't been able to reverse until just recently. First, the harbor in Lu Kang began to fight a losing battle with silt. And the emergence of T'ai Chung as a center of government, economy and culture further exacerbated the worsening situation. Slowly, businesses moved or simply closed their doors. Chang Hua, limited in area by mountains, had no place to grow and soon its population began to decline. When the government moved to Taiwan, a new administrative system was implemented which left Chang Hua without its provincial seat of government. The criteria for a provincial seat was either a population of half a million or a population of only 200,000 and a reputation as a cultural, economic or administrative center. By that time Chang Hua was neither and T'ai Chung officially took the leader's role in central Taiwan.

People from Chang Hua are not risk takers. Unless it's guaranteed or already known to them, it becomes anathema to the people of Chang Hua. There is a true story about a local newspaper that for some inexplicable reason was not selling any copies. When the newspaper made a quick survey to find the answer, they were shocked to find that everybody was reading the paper. . . . but that it was the same copy being passed from person to person in order to save a little money.

Strolling through town, even the newcomer seems to slow the pace of his walk a bit to fit into the mood that prevails. There are no bars or dancing halls for the residents of Chang Hua, whose idea of entertainment is a little sports in the morning or failing that, some television at night for the night owl. Chinese shadow boxing, jogging and basketball are all favorites in Chang Hua. Another popular activity is "bird walking," which simply is walking one's bird. Some bird walkers like to gather and compare the plumage of their birds or just enjoy the company and the singing of their pets. Chang Hua is a quiet little town not suited for those who feast on the madness of the big city.

Industry consists of many small factories because nobody is daring enough to investment means no tax revenues which in turn means no growth. . . for the businessman it's an endless cycle of defeat.

Culture in Chang Hua is a mirror image of the people and their lifestyle, simple and traditional. Li Ch'un Yuan is an opera troupe based in Chang Hua that specializes in Pei Kuan, a popular local opera form, with origins in the Mainland, that is extremely complex in the twists and turns of its plot and arrangement. Pei Kuan was considered important for young people to study in earlier times. The lack of entertainment, it was feared, could only lead to gambling and drinking for the impressionable youth of the day. But, as is true in many societies today, the young people of Chang Hua don't have the time or are simply not interested in studying traditional subjects. Consequently, the youngest member of Li Ch'un Yuan is 40 and the oldest over 70.

Another popular spot to visit is the Hung Mao Ching or "Well of the Red Hairs." The name comes from the Dutch occupation period when the Dutch would often make trips to the well for their drinking water. Today the water is still cherished by the locals, who bring empty can after empty can to be filled at the well. The water is thought to be especially good for making a nice pot of tea. So popular in fact, that a booming business is being done in home deliveries Depending on which floor you live on, the best water in town will be delivered to your door. . . . for a small fee, of course.

The Confucius Temple stands straight and proud in the middle of town. Of the 40 Confucius Temples in Taiwan, Chang Hua's is considered the second oldest and largest, next only to T'ai Nan's. In the Ching dynasty, scholars would frequent the temple in pursuit of study and inspiration. After years of war and neglect, a major renovation project was undertaken in 1973 to return it to its proper strong and dignified manner. Today, it is common to see people playing chess or musical instruments there in a tranquil and relaxing atmosphere.

Puppet theater also enjoys a strong tradition in Chang Hua. Making the eyes and jaw move in life-like 360°movements is all a part of a craft that has been passed from generation to generation. The creation of a puppet requires 3 steps: 1) The drawing of a blueprint. 2) Making a mold from clay based on the blueprint. 3) The actual carving of the wooden figure. Of course, the making of a puppet is infinitely more complex than describing the process. The work that goes into a puppet is reflected in the price; U.S. $25-$75 for an average puppet.

Three years ago a new mayor, Ch'en Chun-ching, was elected and immediately started to rejuvenate Chang Hua. A major road repair project resurfaced 400 streets and built 6 new ones, hoping to correct the image Chang Hua has of being a dirty city. His efforts paid off handsomely, when Chang Hua was named the cleanest city in Taiwan in a recent contest sponsored by the government. In addition to the cleanup, several major construction projects are currently under way, including a new athletic facility. "Under construction" signs are now to be seen everywhere in Chang Hua, thanks in large part to the efforts of the new energetic mayor. The new construction, it is hoped, will attract further investment and people to Chang Hua.

Before Chang Hua becomes too hectic, maybe it's a good idea to pay a visit today!

(Kirby Chien)

[Picture Caption]

The laughter of children helps break the solemnity of the Confucian Temple.

1. A rooster in front of "Nan Yao" Palace taking a rest. 2. The "Ch'i Yeh" god in Chung Huang Temple and this child make aninteresting contrast. 3. A dignified sculptured dragon of the "Kwan Di" Temple.

1. Ch'en Chun-ching, mayor of Chang Hua, was selected one of the 10 most outstanding leaders in Taiwan. 2. The Formosa Plastic factory is the largest in Chang Hua. Here is a dormitory for women workers. 3. Formosa Plastic places great emphasis on research. Shown are researchers analyzing chemical ions. 4. From any street in Chang Hua, one is able to see the "Ba Kua" mountain Buddha standing over the city.

1. Bird enthusiasts hang their bird cages so that their pets can enjoy more of the sights around them. 2. The new athletic stadium's roof under construction.

1. Anyone for a bowl of the local favorite, "mao shu" noddle soup? 2. Another gastronomical delight found in Chang Hua, "ju wan." 3. Fetching some water for delivery at the "Well of the Red Hairs."

1. The Hsu family's store front window displaying their traditional puppets and bridal headpieces. 2. A member of the Li Chun Yuan theater group, practicing every night to reach perfection. 3. Continuing a family tradition Hsu Ping-ken painstakingly carves the details of a puppet. Because of the intricacy involved he can only carve three in one day.

1. A rooster in front of "Nan Yao" Palace taking a rest.

2. The "Ch'i Yeh" god in Chung Huang Temple and this child make an　interesting contrast.

3. A dignified sculptured dragon of the "Kwan Di" Temple.

1. Ch'en Chun-ching, mayor of Chang Hua, was selected one of the 10 most outstanding leaders in Taiwan.

4. From any street in Chang Hua, one is able to see the "Ba Kua" mountain Buddha standing over the city.

2. The Formosa Plastic factory is the largest in Chang Hua. Here is a dormitory for women workers.

3. Formosa Plastic places great emphasis on research. Shown are researchers analyzing chemical ions.

1. Bird enthusiasts hang their bird cages so that their pets can enjoy more of the sights around them.

2. The new athletic stadium's roof under construction.

1. Anyone for a bowl of the local favorite, "mao shu" noddle soup.

2. Another gastronomical delight found in Chang Hua, "ju wan.

3. Fetching some water for delivery at the "Well of the Red Hairs.".

1. The Hsu family's store front window displaying their traditional puppets and bridal headpieces.

2. A member of the Li Chun Yuan theater group, practicing every night to reach perfection.

3. Continuing a family tradition Hsu Ping-ken painstakingly carves the details of a puppet. Because of the intricacy involved he can only carve three in one day.