Let there be light
In 1942, the Japanese began building hydroelectric power stations, aiming not only to provide power to eastern Taiwan, but also to transmit whatever excess there was across to the west. A plan was made to link up Ji’an in Hualien and Wanda Reservoir in Nantou, but as World War II drew to a close and the Japanese surrendered unconditionally to the Allies, the plan was cut short and the Japanese departed from Taiwan.
One Japanese official apparently remarked on leaving Taiwan, “When we leave, we leave Taiwan in darkness!” Fortunately, when the Republican government took charge of Taiwan in the wake of the Japanese departure, they immediately set up the Taiwan Power Company. Taipower’s engineering department was put in the charge of Sun Yun-suan, a graduate of the Department of Electrical Engineering at Harbin Institute of Technology. Under Sun’s leadership, within several months all of Taiwan’s power network was linked up and restored.
In 1950, with the help of US aid, Taipower restarted the Japanese east-west plan, setting up engineering stations in Puli and Liwu, and beginning to build a link from Tongmen to Wanda, crossing along the Nenggao Trail. The abandoned Japanese guard stations were rebuilt and repurposed as maintenance posts for the power line.
From then, the trail began serving another purpose, becoming the main route for Taipower maintenance staff to inspect the lines and pylons. During the snowy winters, the workers had to risk bitterly cold snows to climb the pylons and clear off the ice and snow that would otherwise bring down the power lines.
In honor of the hard work of those men and those who built the system, President Chiang Kai-shek himself produced the calligraphy for a plaque saying “Bringing light to all, benefitting the people,” which stands atop Mt. Nenggao.
Nelson Young points out that the popularity of the Nenggao Trail was not just due to its natural beauty, but also because, thanks to its use by Taipower, it was particularly well maintained. All along the trail were maintenance posts that could be used, and for hikers, there is little more heavenly after a long day’s hiking than a nice warm shower.
However, when Taipower began moving to hydroelectric power generation in 1977 and building dams in the northern stretch of the Mugua River (Kuaixi, Qilai, Xiaolongjian, and four other dams), parts of the Nenggao Trail were left to landslides, reducing the length of the usable trail from its original 80-plus kilometers down to only 27 km from Tunyuan to the Qilai trailhead.
And as demand for power rose in eastern Taiwan, there was little excess to transmit to the west, so maintenance crews were scaled back, helicoptering in when needed. As a result of all of this, the trail gradually began to fall into disrepair.
Ahead of Nenggao Falls, the Sande Suspension Bridge hangs, suspended by steel and iron. Hikers make their way gingerly across it, taking their time and bathing in the otherworldly feel of their surroundings.