In recent years a lot of people have decided to save themselves the trouble of going out happily only to come back disappointed. They have begun to notice places near to home that they can "travel" to without hassle. In this way, people are becoming increasingly familiar with the walking paths all around the city.
On a path of stairs carved in rock, besides scattered groups of walkers in twos and threes going by in a steady stream, you can occasionally see larger groups of ten or twenty. Perhaps they have stopped on the side of the trail to listen to the guide explain the "immigrant" origins of the crimson Chinese hibiscus. Or perhaps they are gathered around the stone cliff, scrutinizing the lichen that flourishes in shades of green, speculating about the evolution of life on our planet. Rounding a bend on the mountain, there is a group of people gazing up at the sky, admiring black bulbuls as they banter in the trees.
Immortal Footprint Rock, located in the southeast part of the Taipei Basin, is in the "back yard" of residents of the Chingmei District of Taipei City. Besides explaining the natural beauty that abounds here, the guides also spin out a romantic story: It is said that the Taoist immortal Lu Dongbin one day rode out on the clouds, and happened to meet He Xiangu, a sprite, the object of his affections. He wanted to go to her and tell her how much he loved her, but she pushed him away. He fell onto an enormous boulder. Because he fell with such force, his footprints were embedded in the boulder. Ever since this has been called "Immortal Footprint Rock."
Today there are no spirit footprints to see, but there are plenty of human prints. Counting up for just a single weekend morning, we have seen come by Immortal Footprint Rock three groups of children brought by the Homemakers' Union and Foundation (HUF), as well as a parent-child group brought by the Nature Promotion Association totaling almost 60 people, coming through in four sections. These groups, made up of children, adults, and even older folks, have turned this mountain walking path into a scene as vibrant as that generated by the crowds at the popular exhibition of Impressionist paintings being shown at the Museum of History.
The backyard museum
From the patterns of domestic travel, it seems that trails near the cities came to be seen as "not very hip," with few people using them. Starting in the 1980s, as Taiwan grew wealthy, its citizens increasingly holidayed abroad. Moreover, as automobile ownership became common, as cities and towns developed and their roads broadened and stretched out, and as new scenic and recreation areas were opened, urban residents came to favor getting away from the city for leisure. Hopping in the car for a weekend getaway became the thing to do.
However, many people find that these trips do not meet expectations. In many tourist spots the environment has been polluted and ruined. An increasing number of people are deciding to skip the hassles of trips far afield. Many urbanites have returned to using their feet as their mode of transportation, walking the trails in the mountains near their homes. Without leaving the city, they can relax and enjoy. Some more thoughtful people have also figured out how to utilize the collective resources of clubs, taking in nature with the help of guides.
Six years ago, Kuo Cheng-meng, an associate professor of botany at National Taiwan University, acted as guide for the HUF on a trip to the Shei-pa National Park in central Taiwan. At that time, Kuo told them that in fact Taipei did not lack similar scenery. Later, Kuo personally took them on a trip to explain several Taipei-area trails to them. Members of the HUF then organized a "Nature Trail Promotion Committee." They train volunteer guides and promote trail activities. Kuo, feeling a sense of duty, is a consultant to the committee.
Kuo, who has designed many of the trails in the Taipei vicinity, emphasizes that Taiwan is very special. It is at the juncture of tropical and sub-tropical climatic regions, with high temperatures and heavy rains year round. Moreover, given its mountainous terrain, all the forest forms of the northern hemisphere are here, layered one on top of the other. Finally, because of how the topography divided and recombined in the past, Taiwan is heiress to a complex variety of life, making it a "natural museum" of a level rarely seen anywhere else in the world.
Sadly, over the last century of immigration and development, people have moved from the plains to the hills and thence into the mountains, until now there is virtually no virgin forest left. Although, beginning in 1984, several national parks and nature reserves have been established, these have been mostly at high altitudes, and the objects of conservation policies have mainly been rare and endangered species. Meanwhile, the most precious areas-the low-altitude deciduous and sub-tropical forests, which would, if preserved, serve many important functions and offer the highest diversity of life-have been ignored. Those that have not fallen victim to vegetable farms and orchards have been developed into slopeland residential areas.
Taipei people are blessed?
"When you talk about trails, Taipei people are really lucky!" says Huang Jui-hsiang, director of the Third Department in the Taipei City Bureau of Business Management, which takes care of the paths. Taipei is in a basin, surrounded by mountains on all sides, and mountain and forest reserves established by the city government cover more than half of the municipality's jurisdiction. The autonomously managed Yangmingshan National Park is also within city limits. "You can go to a national park by vehicle in less than 30 minutes, and there are numerous trails in the mountains on all sides."
According to Taipei City statistics, there are over 70 officially registered trails managed by the city, and there are another 20-plus in Yangmingshan National Park. These are open to the public 24 hours a day, free of charge.
The various hiking trails around Taipei all have their own special features. In each location one can find different artifacts of civilization, natural scenery, geologic features, and topography to please hiking and walking clubs. Take for example the mountains around Nankang, where the main attractions are Nankang, Sishou, and Muchih mountains. There are many temples along the route, so those trails are popular among the older set. The Erge mountain area, located in the Wenshan District, has many tea farms and fruit orchards open to visitors. The area around Yangmingshan includes several famous scenic spots, including Dream Lake, Sun Valley, Skyscraper Rock, and Sulfur Source Mountain.
Over the years the HUF has prepared guided introductions to six trails, with the most popular being the Chihshan Rock Trail in Shihlin, which combines natural scenery with Class Two historic cultural artifacts. And since Mayor Chen Shui-bian declared that this trail would be made part of the city's high school entrance exams, many dedicated parents have come here to collect informa- tion for their kids. Other popular trails included Warship Rock in Tienmu, Tiger and Elephant mountains in the Hsinyi District, and the Yuan Tung Temple in Chungho.
The Lis, who live on Minsheng East Road, are frequent visitors to the mountains in the Shihlin District. The middle-aged Mrs. Li relates that her children have grown up and left home, so she and her husband get together with other couples on the weekend for half-day or all-day hikes, finding both relaxation and exercise. She is a volunteer with the Taipei Bureau of Business Management, and often takes part in clean-up and tree-and-flower-planting activities. Once, when some planting work was completed on the trail through the "hands-on" forest in Neishuanghsi, she sat beneath the trees munching on pastries provided by the BBM, and happily declared: "It's as much fun as going on a trip when I was in primary school!"
Nature writer Liu Ko-hsiang gets much of his subject matter right from the mountains near the Wenshan District where he lives. Five years ago, because he had to look after his children, he could not go too far from home, so he decided to embark on extended observation of a small, nameless earthen mountain next to the Wanfang residential development. He christened it "Little Green Mountain," and produced a series of notes and articles describing the natural scenery and plant and animal life through the four seasons on the southern rim of the Taipei basin.
"Even if it is just a common open area right near a residential district, as long as there is a hill and a pond, there might very well be a rich variety of life residing there," says Liu. After years of observation, one can accumulate a startling diversity of knowledge and experience even in a low-lying suburban spot that everyone otherwise overlooks. "As my kids were growing up, I tried to make Little Green Mountain into a place where they could learn about nature."
An oasis in the city
Outside of Taipei, residents of other cities have also begun to search for natural recreation spots right where they live. Lin Lan-fang, who moved from Taipei to Hsinchu four years ago, discovered an "oasis"-Shihpajui Mountain-less than ten minutes drive from the city center. The trails around the mountains stretch for eight kilometers. Just nearby are Tsing Hua and Chiao Tung universities, so there is a lot of space. It has become a major recreation area for Hsinchu residents.
"Besides walks, every morning teachers lead people in calisthenics, taijiquan, or qigong free of charge," says Lin, who has lost five kilos by often coming here for a workout. "Every day there are morning calisthenics, after which the teacher puts on a tape and we all join in singing 'When We Are All Together' and 'Wishing You Well.' I really feel a great sense of well-being."
Huang Lin-yi, a bird-watching aficionado who has set up the "Great Outdoors Specialty Shop" at the trail entrance in the foothills of Shihpajui Mountain, goes hiking in the mountains nearly every day. "The most special feature here is the hawks. Often you can see a group of them circling in the sky. It's awesome," he says. Other animals are also active in the forest-the North Formosan red-bellied tree squirrel, the black bulbul, the Muller's barbet. . . .
There used to be a primeval forest here, but it was cut down in the Japanese occupation era and replaced with acacia trees for making charcoal, devil trees for making wooden sandals, and Chinese sweetgum for scenery. These varieties have grown tall here, making for a beautiful wooded area.
In Kaohsiung, at the southern end of Taiwan, the intensive development of heavy industry has brought ecological damage and pollution that have reduced the amount of green space. Some environmental activists have warned about the seriousness of this shortage of green space, and have actively moved to protect and clean up the small number of existing mountain areas. One such area is Chai Mountain, which has today become an important site for Kaohsiung citizens to recreate, bird-watch, and observe nature.
Dentist Chen Jen-chieh began working as a guide on Chai Mountain after joining a bird society. Because the mountain is right in the city center, it is easily accessible. After completing his training as a guide, Chen began hiking alone as "homework"-learning how to observe the natural environment.
Says Chen: "At first, I just wanted to practice watching wild birds. Then, discovering myself surrounded by plant life, I figured I ought to learn about that, too. Finally, I discovered that the most varied and colorful things are insects, and they also make the best subject matter for talks. So I began to keep a notebook, take photographs, and buy reference books. Bit by bit I embarked on a new process of learning, and it has been exhilarating!"
Learn by playing
Hoping to get more out of their leisure, many people have begun to study more about nature, and then to become volunteer guides, to share the joy of what they have learned with others. Kuo Cheng-meng, who is in charge of guide training for the HUF, calls these volunteers "greenmen," seeing them as integral parts of the natural setting.
"People go to one recreation spot after another on vacation, but all they do is come back with some local products and photos of themselves. They don't learn anything about Taiwan, nor are they touched by this land. It's really a shame," says Chang Hsi-hsiung, who works for a construction firm. He feels that, because of the traveling habits people have, they miss many excellent opportunities to experience a sense of connection to the land. To help change these habits, he has become an HUF volunteer.
Another group, the "Nature Education Promotion Association," formed by alumni of National Taiwan Normal University eight years ago, has also made no small contribution to hiking trail activities around Taipei. Says volunteer Cheng Yung-hsiang, "Traveling is something you need to learn to do in order to do it right. From the time we are small, the education we receive leaves us detached from this land where we have grown up." He takes himself as a case in point. Having studied design, it was only when he wanted to help his child with the nature class in primary school that he discovered how little he knew. He started seeking out information, for example by going to lectures or joining activities. Ultimately he signed on with the NEPA as a volunteer.
Chen Shih-yi, who writes a recreation column in the newspaper and has published a book called Green Travel, observes that in recent years more and more people have come to realize that they can integrate various activities-from micro-observation of flora, fauna, geology, and historic sites to macro-observation of the distribution of animal life, forest typology, the changes in the atmosphere, the content of local culture, or changing styles of architecture-into travel. "If these can be made part of a journey, they can raise the true quality of the trip. But even more importantly, they can allow people to come to know the past and present of Taiwan, without even having to work at it."
"In the past, if I was walking down the road and saw exposed rock or plant life, I just felt that it was ugly. But since I have learned a little bit about nature, I look at things in a different light. When you are able to recognize, classify, and draw conclusions about the mish-mash of rock and vegetation, its inner order and beauty become apparent. This is the only way we can truly appreciate how precious nature's scenery really is." So says Lin Su-pi, executive secretary of the nature trail promotion committee of the HUF. Even after having participated in countless hikes, her interest has not flagged, and on weekends when she has free time she still takes her kids to join in these activities.
Seeking balance
To count up the advantages of hiking, you can relax and have a good time, as well as pick up a lot of knowledge. Most vitally, after experiencing the richness and beauty of the natural resources that surround us, many people are moved to defend their own living environment.
Kuo Cheng-meng points out that low altitude areas in Taiwan have been completely devastated as a result of the pressures of development and of forest industry policy since the Japanese occupation era. Most of the original, natural forests in the greater Taipei area have disappeared because of human activity. What remains today is mainly secondary natural forest. Yet even this is at risk: Many secondary natural woodlands have been destroyed by cutting for lumber or by clearance for illegal construction.
"On a lot of trails, there is a small temple every three steps, a large temple every five. Many of these were built without legal rights, seriously damaging the scenic beauty as well as soil and water conservation," says HUF "greenwoman" Tsai Li-chen.
Chinese have long believed that celestial merit can be earned through the planting of a tree, and like to plant scenic trees by the roadside, but they don't consider the impact on the existing native plant life. For example, the Chinese hibiscus and the angel's trumpet, with large and beautifully colored flowers, are popular in Taiwan, and have been planted all along many trails. "But these also are more likely to attract the attention of bees, butterflies, and other insects, and thus they deprive many native species of their opportunities for insects to spread their seeds, thus threatening the survival of the native species."
When HUF "greenmen" give talks, they become point men for keeping a lookout on nature. They report any unusual situations or ongoing destruction. At the March public hearing sponsored by the "Taipei City Commission for the Promotion of Women's Rights," the HUF, which was charged with organizing that month's hearing, made "Reconstructing an Environmental City" the main theme. They stated their views about the ecology in Taipei, and also invited Huang Jui-hsiang, who is in charge of the city's trails, "for a little chat."
"We are very averse to the city govern-ment's plan to replace the rock stairs on the Tiger Mountain walking trail with granite imported from mainland China," says Tang Ku-ming, who is an HUF guide on the Tiger Mountain trail. Not only is it a waste of taxpayers' money, it will destroy the appearance of the area.
Huang Jui-hsiang says that trails are a way to get close to nature in a channeled manner. Limiting human activity to the trails is the most nature-friendly way to keep damage to nature to a minimum. However, opening up trails always brings crowds of people, creating pressure on the natural environment, so it is necessary to do reconstruction and preservation. "These stone stairs have been around for a long time, and are in a state of disrepair. They can't take a heavy load of hikers, so the best thing is to put in some stairs made of a more durable material like granite.
Taking the Neishuanghsi forest trail as an example, "The original trail was just formed by people hiking through. It was narrow and steep, and became very slippery when it rained, making it very dangerous," says Huang. So several months ago the BBM built stairs out of old railroad ties. Also, to restore the environment along the trails and protect the soil and water, they mobilized volunteers from Taipei City to lay down a foundation of soil and wood chips, and they brought in plants native to the area. "The foundation gives the plants a place to take root. All we have to do is spread soil from the parts of the original forest that are still intact onto the foundation; the soil is filled with seeds, and the plants will grow naturally, restoring the original appearance of this area."
Paradoxically, members of the HUF, who have done so much to promote excursions to the walking trails, are worried about being too successful. "Once a lot of people come, that will place greater pressure on nature, especially if the visitors lack any conception of how to protect the environment," says Tsai Li-chen. Thus HUF guides do more than pass along interesting tidbits of information. "In fact, attitudes are even more important than factual knowledge. For example, we tell people about the adverse effects of introducing non-native species into an area, or about how vital soil and water conservation is."
The green traveler revolution
"Sometimes I wonder whether or not there is a form of social activism that can be gentle, even playful, without being combative, that can be effective with people hardly being conscious of it." Author Chen Shih-yi thinks that promoting trail-hiking may be just such a form of activism.
The significance of walking a trail is not limited to the walking alone. It is also in the sweet encounters with the flowers and plants along the way, and in inquiring of the impressive trees how they are getting along. It is in absorbing a history of the past and a profile of the present in architecture, and in reading the book of nature as you would read a book at home. Is it not the joy and celebration of life that is flourishing along these trails?
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Hiking trails inside city limits are getting more attention from urbanites because they are accessible, and combine exercise, recreation, and learning about nature.
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(left and right)Trails are like natural museums, places with endless knowledge that you can experience first-hand; many people use them as outdoor classrooms.
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Many trails were opened long ago, and there are many artifacts and legends attached to them. The photo is of a gate to the Chihshan Rock Park, where in the Qing dynasty immigrants from Fujian's Changzhou area resisted an attack by their rivals from Quanzhou.
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Mountain trails are dotted with temples and shrines, with the most common being those dedicated to the Earth Deity, overseer of forests and land.
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Crowds mean pressure on trails, which must be carefully protected and maintained. Picking flowers and trapping animals are destructive acts.
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Warship Rock has a very special geological composition.
In recent years young people have used this area to practice riding dirt bikes, and the tire ruts have spoiled the appearance.
Many trails were opened long ago, and there are many artifacts and legends attached to them. The photo is of a gate to the Chihshan Rock Park, where in the Qing dynasty immigrants from Fujian's Changzhou area resisted an attack by their rivals from Quanzhou.
Mountain trails are dotted with temples and shrines, with the most common being those dedicated to the Earth Deity, overseer of forests and land.
Crowds mean pressure on trails, which must be carefully protected and maintained. Picking flowers and trapping animals are destructive acts.
Warship Rock has a very special geological composition. In recent years young people have used this area to practice riding dirt bikes, and the tire ruts have spoiled the appearance.
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