Many people visiting Taiwan hesitate to buy jewelry because they are not sure whether it is genuine or not. One person trying to change this situation is Monica Yu-yun Yue of the Gem Consultants Ltd.
Ms. Yue is one of the few certified gemologists in Taiwan and the only one with a diploma from the Gemological Institute of America. "I've been in love with jewelry for a long time," she said, "and have always had a small collection of my own." Her hobby turned into a profession some years ago when she went to the United States with her husband and heard about the Gemological Institute.
"I was surprised to hear that one could actually study about jewelry," she said. "Of course, theory is important, but even more so is experience in handling and looking at a wide variety of jewelry and precious stones. Fortunately, the institute has excellent contacts with many jewelry stores in the U.S. and Europe which regularly loan items for students to observe."
After her return to Taiwan, she was persuaded by her friends to become a gem appraiser. According to Ms. Yue, the "transaction pattern" of the local jewelry market is still quite primitive. "There was never a professionally trained gemologist to identify and certify the quality of the stones. Local jewelers rely on the naked eye and experience to appraise stones, but sometimes both can be terribly wrong," she said.
Consequently, local jewelers are not trusted by their clientele. "Many local customers or foreign tourists are afraid to buy their jewelry in Taiwan," she said. "The jewelry market in Taiwan is pervaded by an aura of distrust. Unscrupulous dealers will undoubtedly cheat naive customers.
"When I first started, many dealers thought I was trying to make it hard for them to do business. I had few clients. Gradually, things picked up, as dealers began to realize the value of certification. The customer is no longer afraid of being cheated by the dealer. I am very happy to bring a little order into the Taiwan jewelry market."
The Gem Consultants Ltd. set up five years ago by Yue and her brother has already established its authority in Taiwan and Southeast Asian nations. The development of the local jewelry market is due in part to Ms. Yue's certification of precious stones.
The shortage of certified gemologists in Taiwan has resulted from the lack of professional training and qualified techniques, and their meager income. A certification issued by Ms. Yue costs around NT$1,000 or US$28, and NT$1,600 or US$44 for a diamond over 7 carats. It takes at least half an hour to assess a piece of ordinary jewelry.
"Many people have asked me why I don't set up my own jewelry shop. The reason is that once a gemologist is financially involved in the stones, it sometimes becomes hard to make an objective appraisal."
During the past five years, Ms. Yue has shared the ups and downs of her customers. She remembers how once a lady brought to her store a ruby which she had bought 30 years ago from a pawnbroker. Some lapidaries had told her that it was a worthless artificial stone, but she went to Yue full of hope. After cautious appraisal, Ms. Yue certified that the ruby was a flawless natural stone from Burma. She shared the joy of the lady, as the value of the stone had been ascertained.
Ms. Yue has written a book, Window on Jewelry, which explains to the layman the characteristics of jewelry, stipulates a reasonable price and describes how to buy desirable pieces. These articles have been translated into English and carried in the Lapidary Journal in the United States.
She has been asked by several organizations to open classes on the appraisal of jewelry, but has turned down the offers flat. "A workshop must be well-equipped with facilities and machinery to back up the gemologist. Taiwan lacks a great variety of precious stones. Theory is not enough to balance the lack of field experience," she said.
In April, Ms. Yue's eldest brother followed her footsteps to study at the Gemological Institute of America. "After he gets his degree from the Institute, I will have a good assistant," Ms. Yue said.
Asked about her favorite stone, Ms. Yue answered without hesitation: "Opal. For me, beauty is what counts. Opal is a magic stone. The colors vary according to the angle you look at it. It is mysterious and unique among all the precious stones."
As a responsible gemologist, Ms. Yue does not take any chances in appraising any stone. It is only natural that her certification is a guarantee of the preciousness of a stone.
[Picture Caption]
Opposite: Ms. Monica Yu-yun Yue is the first gem appraiser in the Republic of China. Above: The certification issued by Ms. Yue carries a photograph and details of the quality of the gem. Right: The gorgeously decorated jewelry shop.
Ms. Yue teaches techniques on the appraisal of jewelry (above opposite), and appraises the value of gems for housewives (below opposite). Above: It is difficult to judge if jewelry is genuine with the naked eye.
Above left: Opal is a magic stone, whose colors change according to the viewing angle. Below left: Ruby is one of the rarest of precious stones. Opposite: More and more people are going to Yue's shop to have their jewelry appraised.
Ms. Monica Yu-yun Yue is the first gem appraiser in the Republic of China.
The certification issued by Ms. Yue carries a photograph and details of the quality of the gem. Right: The gorgeously decorated jewelry shop.Ms. Monica Yu-yun Yue is the first gem appraiser in the Republic of China.
The certification issued by Ms. Yue carries a photograph and details of the quality of the gem. Right: The gorgeously decorated jewelry shop.
Ms. Yue teaches techniques on the appraisal of jewelry （above opposite）
and appraises the value of gems for housewives （below opposite）
It is difficult to judge if jewelry is genuine with the naked eye.
Opal is a magic stone, whose colors change according to the viewing angle.
Ruby is one of the rarest of precious stones.
Opposite: More and more people are going to Yue's shop to have their jewelry appraised.
