Actually, Asians have been putting their ingenuity to work on ice cream for years. Japanese "tofutti," a kind of ice cream made from bean curd, is now well known. The Chinese have not lagged behind, developing varieties and operating styles all their own.

An outstanding example of Chinese originality is Snow King, located in the heart of Taipei's entertainment district. The board above the counter is a mass of Chinese characters. It lists flavors, over 70 in all, some of them--like Pork Shreds and Pepper--not easily imaginable by the non-initiate. Ginseng is said to be made with only the finest roots, aged six years, and costs $200 NT (about US$5) a scoop. And then there's Herbal Medicine or Sesame Oil Chicken--available only in winter when you need to "stoke up." You name it, they've got it.

Kao Jih-hsing, owner of Snow King, got started just after World War Ⅱ. But it was during the fifties that his big break came, when a customer asked him if he could make ice cream with liquor--he was giving a party and wanted a surprise dessert for his guests. Kao was taken aback at first but after a little reflection he thought it was a good idea and took up the challenge. But he found it wasn't so simple; the alcohol wouldn't mix properly with the other ingredients. After repeated experiments, he discovered it was a question of temperature and eventually came up with the right formula. Encouraged by this initial success, Kao became absorbed in the search for exotic flavors, his experiments leading him ever onward.

Kao's may be the most original, but contributions from countless others have gone into the development of Taiwan's flourishing ice cream industry. It all began with shaved ice, still a popular refreshment; while for many years the most welcome summertime sound for Taiwanese children was bah-poo bah-poo, heralding the approach of the taro-root ice milk vendor with his pushcart and rubber horn. Shaved ice at one time was so popular, in fact, that a local saying went, "Selling ice is number one; number two is being a doctor"--presumably in reference to the profitability of the respective professions.

But the honor of producing Taiwan's first real ice cream must go the Polar Bear Company, which brought in an ice-cream making machine from Shanghai when the mainland fell in 1949. Their ice cream was expensive, but all the more appreciated for being rare. Members of the National Assembly were served Polar Bear as a special treat and one general was said to be sure to take a carton back with him every time he returned to the front. Because of its high cost, Polar Bear was forced to look for new flavors to keep its customers. Its most popular creation was mango, a flavor new to many and found delicious by all.

Polar Bear's success gave rise to other brands, like Snow King and Shao Mei. Snow King has just one location and doesn't sell wholesale. Shao Mei's marketing strategy is just the opposite. "Anyone under 30 has grown up with Shao Mei," says Ch'en Ch'in-hsien, whose father and four uncles, originally in the grocery business, started the company years ago when they found ice cream outselling their other goods. Before Shao Mei, ice cream was sold in cones made from rice starch, which melted along with the ice cream and left behind a sticky mess. Shao Mei introduced waxed paper cups, making for convenient marketing and storage. Sold at a price easily affordable even by students, Shao Mei is popular all over the island.

According to recent statistics, ice cream consumption on Taiwan last year was 1.14 liters (about seven scoops) a person. Compared with 20.3 liters for the U.S. this may not seem like much, but consumption is expected to grow with the island's booming economy.

Confident of growth, at least, are the numerous overseas franchises like Swensen's, Dreyer's and others that have entered the Taiwan market over the past two years. "Actually, foreign ice cream was brought in as early as 1956," points out Huang Shang-jen, Deputy General Manager of Foremost Dairy Products, which originally opened its factories to serve American servicemen and their families stationed here in the fifties. Foremost sells to the same type of market as the newcomers and faces some fresh competition. But company officials are confident. The new brands are too sweet and sticky for Chinese tastes, they say. They are working on developing flavors with local fruits, such as pineapple, mango, banana and guava.

But except for Foremost and Bresler's, which is also taking steps to spruce up its image, most local ice creams are not in the same high-priced market as the foreign brands. Actually, the newcomers overlap in many respects--price, service, style and flavor--and most probably face a tough contest ahead.

"Let the consumer be the judge and may the best man win!" concludes one eager entrepreneur.

(Peter Eberly)

[Picture Caption]

Ice cream made from celery, hot pepper, tomatoes or shredded pork--can you imagine the flavor?

The taste of mint ice cream, like its bright green color, is cool and refreshing.

Brands and flavors of every kind fight it out to be the summer's favorite.

With a firm grip, steady concentration and some help from the side, thisyoungster seems to be doing a good job.

Buying a big carton to take home and indulge.

Strict sanitation is required in the production process. Workers are fully outfitted and can't be careless.

Local brands are improving their looks as well as their quality. This is Shao Mei's new storefront.

A fruit sundae with the works.

The taste of mint ice cream, like its bright green color, is cool and refreshing.

Brands and flavors of every kind fight it out to be the summer's favorite.

With a firm grip, steady concentration and some help from the side, this　youngster seems to be doing a good job.

Buying a big carton to take home and indulge.

Local brands are improving their looks as well as their quality. This is Shao Mei's new storefront.

Strict sanitation is required in the production process. Workers are fully outfitted and can't be careless.

A fruit sundae with the works.