The springtime marking the arrival of the new year has not yet come, but already the people of Green Island are busy slapping on paint, fixing up their homes, and presenting a general picture of "out with the old, in with the new." This is the beautification campaign initiated by the local government--all to welcome tourists. Under the rays of the sun, resplendent white houses, set against a background of jewelled beaches and azure skies, sweeping away the gray and hazy days of the past.

In the familiar song "Green Island Nocturne," the island is described as "like a boat rocking in the moonlight"--mysterious and obscure.

Stripping away the mystery: In moremun dane life, because the former Taiwan Garrison Command, the Ministry of Defense, and the Ministry of Justice all had prisons on the island, plus the fact that communications with Taiwan were less than convenient (you had to take an eight-seater plane or an irregular passenger packet), the image most people had of Green Island was as a curtained off, curfewed place. Many people even incorrectly thought that Lu Tao--as the place is called in Chinese--was a forbidden zone to which outsiders could not travel.

In fact, people can come and go to the island as they please. And after the lifting of martial law in Taiwan, the coast has also been completely opened to the public. But because of the old image, amidst a vogue for trips to offshore islands, Green Island has still gotten the cold shoulder.

Last year the number of trips to Green Island was a mere one-eighth that of the Pescadores (60,000 to 480,000). Of these many people saw it only as a stopover on the trip from Taitung to Orchid Island. Passenger boats from Taitung only stop in Lu Tao for two hours, so passengers would hit the beach, rush to get on a vehicle, then take a quick tour around the island before hurrying off to Orchid Island.

In fact, as early as 1988 the Tourism Bureau had already tabbed Green Island as a national-class tourism island. After it was included as part of the East Coast National Scenic Area two years ago, the East Coast National Scenic Area Administration (ECNSAA) went a step further and laid out a 25- year development plan for the island.

Why?

Coral more beautiful than Kenting:

Planes taking off from Taitung reach the airspace over Lu Tao in just ten minutes. When you look down, you see a flourishing verdant mountain spine resting in a pool of deep blue water. "The ocean is Green Island's most valuable treasure," points out Cheng Lieh, the Taitung county magistrate.

You can find an oceanic current running by the islet on the east and west sides, the Kuroshio, which is a warm current from the equator. This comfortable and clear sea water has spawned a rich and beautiful foundation of ocean resources for Green Island. Besides bringing the fish on which the livelihood of the residents depends, it also forms a special undersea scenic world--coral reefs.

Su Cheng-tien, superintendent of the ECNSAA, points out that not only is the coral at Green Island even more beautiful than that at Kenting, Taiwan's beach vacation hot spot, they discovered--after commissioning the International Marina Consultants of Australia to do a survey--that there are even more varieties of coral around Lu Tao than in the Land Down Under's world-renowned Great Barrier Reef.

Chang Kun-hsiung, a researcher in the institute of Zoology at the Academia Sinica, pointed out in his "Study of Conservation of Ocean Resources at Green Island" that there are nearly 400 different kinds of coral at Green Island. Moreover, the coverage rate (that is, the area around Lu Tao covered with coral) is very high, and there are a huge variety of colors and shapes.

A tourism and vacation island: As for the landward scenery, because Lu Tao is com posed of accumulated volcanic rock, and sits in the high-temperature, heavy-precipitation tropical rain forest climatic zone, the island is covered with rising and falling peaks which are flourishing with life all year round. "It's most suitable for environmental tourism," says Superintendent Su. The many inlets sheltered from the wind, or open grass fields on the mountain slopes, are ideal places for hotels or camping. Green Island's natural resources are definitely up to the standards required to turn it into an international-class tourism and vacation oasis.

And the isle's good fortune does not stop there. "Green Island has benefited from 'backwardness' in development," Chen Tsung-hsien, who heads up the tourism station of the ECNSAA on Lu Tao. For example, because the island has developed relatively late, the ECNSAA is doing planning and control for the arrival of future tourists so that its environment will not be severely damaged.

Although the scenery from Kung Kuan to Nanliao has been somewhat altered by the concentration of the population and the opening up of usable land there, there are fortunately still other places with barely a trace of having been traipsed across by humans, such as steep cliffs and gorges. Home primeval tropical forest and the belt from Nanliao Bay to Hsieh Lake where the Scirpus lacustris flower--a plant unique to Taiwan--grows have preserved their original appearance because the ECNSAA was able to get them listed as protected areas in time.

Absorbing the experience of other tourist sites has given the ECNSAA a rather cautious attitude in planning and building up Green Island. "All we want to do right now is open up a few locations, and to fix up a little the places tourists can reach most easily," states Superintendent Su. These include Great White Sand, Sleeping Beauty rock, the sea floor hot springs, and Kuanyin Cave. As for the remaining even more special and entertaining sights, with the ECNSAA deliberately "keeping them under wraps," tourists will have to make the effort to find them themselves.

For example, located in the vicinity of Kung Kuan is Swallow's Cave, an enormous hole cut in to the sea wall rocks. Swallows collect and nest there, and it presents a magnificent sight, but in the past it was used as a garbage dump and automobile graveyard. The administrators spent three months cleaning out all the filth, but then didn't open the road to get there, just keeping the small original path made of egg-shaped stones and coral rock. "The uneven stone road is the best obstacle to keep out taxis and motorcycles, but to let the visitors who are really interested have a little adventure and discover some fun," muses Chen Tsung-hsien.

And even where they build pavilions or paths in areas open for recreation, they have abandoned the concrete building materials beloved by so many tourist traps. Instead they use wood for building. Standing amidst the green mountains or coral rock, the effect is far more rustic and natural.

Cooperation from the local residents: Green Island has yet one more precious resource, its most important--highly cooperative local residents. This is connected to the way the island has developed.

According to the Lu Tao Gazetteer, early on the island was the dwelling place of Yami aborigines. In 1804, during the ninth year of the Chia-ching reign of the Ching dynasty, Chen Pi-hsien and other people from the Chuanchow region of Fukien Province arrived by boat from Hsiao Liuchiu. After landing they built a small hut and gave the place the name "Kung Kuan." Thus opened the history of the Han Chinese on Green Island.

Thereafter the number of Han Chinese steadily increased. Because of differences in customs from the Yami, clashes were frequent, and Han Chinese there thus became unusually unified. Today, al though the Yami people have mostly retreated to Orchid Island, this tradition lives on, making the residents a highly cooperative bunch.

Take for example the beautification campaign launched by the rural township government. The residents themselves held town and village assembly meetings to decide on the colors. After the paint had been acquired, everyone in each house was mobilized so that the whole face of the island came out looking brand new.

Four dimensional tourism: With such heaven-sent seasons, natural advantages, and pleasant people, not only do Green Islanders themselves look hopefully on tourism, fast-thinking outsiders have also been rushing in to buy up beachfront and get a foothold.

One former national legislator, setting his sights on Lu Tao's undersea environs, has in vested hundreds of millions of NT dollars to import a submersible and two semi-submersibles. Although the operating license has not yet been approved, the three vividly colored submarines are already parked in Nanliao Harbor, and the captains and maintenance crews are in Green Island just waiting for the word. "We can start anytime," says one staffer.

Jao Teh-yun, who loves deep sea fishing, is another case in point. Mr. Jao, who hails from Chungli, retired two years ago, and happened to travel to Green Island. He fell in love with the island's tranquility and purity, and bought property there. Now every vacation he and his wife, plus his son, daughter-in-law, and one-year-old grand son, all come for fishing and relaxation.

The Public Hostel, an operation run by the Taitung County government, is renovating in order to cope with the future tide of guests. "In the future people in Taiwan will have more and more money and leisure time. And in the future the mindset people will have to travel will not be simply 'tourism' or 'sightseeing,' but will aim for the goal of 'recreation,'" says County Magistrate Cheng. The Green Island lifestyle and pace of "slowly learning, get ting more beautiful all the time," is just the right thing for this function.

Less job opportunities: Beautiful natural and human scenery give Green Island outstanding resources for the development of tourism. However, in the process of becoming a national level vacation island, there are still some problems to overcome.

From an economic viewpoint, there is certainly a need for Lu Tao to develop in the direction of the tourist industry. This is because the fishing industry, which accounts for nearly 80% of economic resources, has not increased its output value due to the inability of fish prices to keep up with the overall rise in the cost of living and because of the shrinking and aging of the fishing workforce. Also, the raising of Formosansika, which boomed briefly on the island, has seen a sharp drop in prices in recent years because of rumors they had caught a virus. Although this has been proved to be only talk, and the price of deer meat has slightly re covered, it would be hard to return to the prosperity of the past.

With the decline in traditional ways of life, Lu Tao must transform itself. But "the existing development plan doesn't look out for us local residents at all," contends Lin Shih-chi, a director of the Green Island Fishermen's Association.

In terms of job opportunities, the point on which the Islanders place the greatest emphasis, these have unexpectedly declined since the arrival of the East Coast National Scenic Area Administration. "In the past each prison would employ at least ten locals as managers and workers," says one Kung Kuan resident, laying the facts on the table for comparison, but the ECNSAA office only has a quota of nine (a director, a technician, a patrol boat pilot, four sanitation workers and two police officers).

Can't identify with the scenery: Local fishermen had also originally thought that permit ting deep sea fishing would mean that they could take vacationing anglers out and make a little "net profit." It was only after the fact that they discovered that "the regulations of the Council for Agricultural Planning and Development stipulate that boats must be no older than ten years, and the captain must have a pilot's license," says Lin Shih- chi. This smashed the hopes of the fishermen, who have no capital to buy new boats and no skills at taking exams.

Given that in some areas of Taiwan local residents have made a killing by developing the seafood industry by raising fish in nearby shallows, Lu Tao fishermen are even more unsettled because they are restricted from doing the same by the environmental protection regulations of the ECNSAA. "Tourists want to eat seafood, and there are relatively few varieties native to Green Island, so why not allow shallow water cultivation so we can add a little more variety and let us earn a little more income?" inquires a perplexed piscator.

Besides, although keeping the steps of development slow and making the environment the first consideration is the prudent way to go about things, without corresponding information and explanations, tourists will find it all inconvenient, and will be unable to identify with the natural beauty.

For example, Chen Yi-chun, who lives in the Shilin area of Taipei, heard much about the emerald seas and snowy sands before her trip, and excited ly followed her traveler's guide to "Great White Sand." It was only after plunging in that she found the bottom covered with sharp coral, making it impossible to swim. "At the very least they could put up a sign on the beach to give visitors a warning," she says, exasperated, looking over a thigh carved up by the reef.

One also often sees downhearted tourists by the bathing area of the "undersea hot springs." Ac cording to the tourist information guide, undersea hot springs are very rare anywhere in the world, existing only in Italy and Green Island (though in fact they forgot to say also in Japan). Many people assume that they can enjoy the pleasures of a hot springs bath, and bring bags with changes of clothes in them. But in the end the only thing they see is "three puddles so shallow that you can only get your feet wet," as one visitor described it.

Letting the environment breathe: Vis-a- vis these problems, Chen Tsung-hsien confesses they are caused by a shortage of funds and man power. But in plans for the future, the ECNSAA hopes to attract private capital, and at that time the whole situation will improve.

"People should be more forward-looking," he admonishes. Shallow water pisciculture, for ex ample, would inevitably destroy the scenic coastline. "After tourist demand picks up, the commercial profits brought by the tourists will supplement Green Island's economic resources. Local residents are the best candidates to change professions to become diving guides, underwater police, and tour boat operators." He reveals that the Council for Agricultural Planning and Development has already agreed to consider lowering the written examination requirements for these licenses, so that Lu Taoites with long experience in these arts can smoothly change career paths.

From another angle, when "sustainable use" becomes the principle for developing the environment, no matter whether it be administrative units, local residents, or tourists, everyone should learn to value our resources, and let nature breathe a little easier. Isn't that the only way we can keep going ourselves?

[Picture Caption]

(photo by Cheng Yuan-ching)

Green Island Tourist Map

1.Green Island Lighthouse

2.Kungkuanpi

3.General's Rock

4.Loumen Rock

5.Bull's Head Mountain

6.Nantzu Lake

7.Youtzu Lake

8.Sleeping Beauty

9.Confucius Rock

10.Sunrise Hot Springs

11.Campground

12.Meihua Deer

13.Sailboat Point

14.Great White Sand

15.Kuanyin Cave

16.Amei Mountain

17.Fire Mountain

18.Glass Bottom Boat Tours

19.Nanlian Fishing Port

20.Green Island Airport

21.Public Hostel

22.Visitors' Service Center

23.Peral Township Offices

24.Turtle Bay

Source: Tourism Bureau Ministry of Communications East Coast National Scenic Area Administration

drawing by Tsai Chih-pen

This stone bungalow is a traditional Green Island structure, though few people live in them today. The photo shows an old site on the bank of Lake Nantzu.

To beautify the environment, the residents of Green Island spruced up their homes, making everything look spanking new. The photo shows Kung Kuan Village.

(Left, right) Raising Formosan sika is still an important subsidiary industry in Green Island. Fresh cut deer grass has also become a common sight on the island.

Fishing accounts for about 80% of the local economy. Fishermen take advantage of a break to dry their nets under the sun.

The fishing boat returns to port; take a few big ones home for dinner. (photo by Cheng Yuan-ching)

Jade blue seas wrap around the lush mountains. Green Island has great tourism potential.

Dig in with your hands--sand dunes provide endless fun to children. (photo by Cheng Yuan-ching)

Dazzlingly hued tropical fish are all over the Green Island area, beloved by divers and undersea photographers alike. (photo courtesy of the ECNSAA)

Green Island In Brief

Rich ocean resouces are capital for the development of tourism on Green Island. How to achieve "sustained use" is a problem that requires consideration right from the start. (photo by Cheng Yuan-ching)

Green Island Tourist Map 1.Green Island Lighthouse 2.Kungkuanpi 3.General's Rock 4.Loumen Rock 5.Bull's Head Mountain 6.Nantzu Lake 7.Youtzu Lake 8.Sleeping Beauty 9.Confucius Rock 10.Sunrise Hot Springs 11.Campground 12.Meihua Deer 13.Sailboat Point 14.Great White Sand 15.Kuanyin Cave 16.Amei Mountain 17.Fire Mountain 18.Glass Bottom Boat Tours 19.Nanlian Fishing Port 20.Green Island Airport 21.Public Hostel 22.Visitors' Service Center 23.Peral Township Offices 24.Turtle Bay Source: Tourism Bureau Ministry of Communications East Coast National Scenic Area Administration drawing by Tsai Chih-pen

This stone bungalow is a traditional Green Island structure, though few people live in them today. The photo shows an old site on the bank of Lake Nantzu.

To beautify the environment, the residents of Green Island spruced up their homes, making everything look spanking new. The photo shows Kung Kuan Village.