During the rainy season, large streams flowing from the Central Mountain Range bring down mud and debris which clogs estuaries on the western coast of Taiwan. Over the years, this residue has collected to form an offshore bar which viewed from afar looks like a huge whale. It is therefore traditionally known as "Kun Shen," among people in the area.
Much of this tidal area has been drained and now forms some of the most fertile land in southwestern Taiwan. Of all the tidal bars that have been reclaimed, Nankunshen is perhaps the most famous, mainly because of the large scale wan-yieh or "Nobleman's Temple" is sited on it.
Origins: The bar at Nankunshen was first deposited 300 years ago three kilometers off the coast at Peimen in Tainan County. At first the population consisted of a few fishermen who erected thatched huts in the area.
An old legend describes how fishermen waiting for a suitable tide to take them out to sea suddenly spotted a luxuriously decorated boat nearing the coast. Next morning they found a small boat containing the statues of five noblemen. Surmising that the craft had been cast adrift by people on the mainland who were welcoming the immortals and trying to drive off evil spirits, local people built a temple for the statues at Nankunshen, and the five noble men became patron saints.
During the reign of Emperor Chia Ching of the Ching dynasty, it became apparent that the original temple was too frail to last long. Worshipers therefore decided to build the new temple at its current site at Peimen.
Wan-yieh: The wan-yiehs are among the most widely followed Taoist deities in Taiwan. It is estimated that there are at least 800 temples throughout the island devoted to them, including the wan-yieh temple at Peimen. According to one story, the wan-yiehs were among the 360 scholars who were massacred during the reign of Emperor Hsuantsung of the Tang dynasty. Another account says that they were included in the 360 scholars who passed the examination to become officials just before the Ming Dynasty was overthrown. Rather than surrender to the Manchus, they committed suicide, and were later deified to redress the wrongs done to them.
Another legend has it that the wan-yiehs were the five gods of pestilence. During the reign of Emperor Taitsung of the Tang Dynasty, five scholars who failed to pass an official examination played music in the streets to eke out a hand-to-mouth existence. Eventually, they were appointed to the court of Emperor Taitsung. One day, to test the magical powers of Taoist master Chang Tien Shih, the emperor invited the five scholars to play music in the cellar. Mistaking them for evil spirits, the master killed them all. In remorse over the error, the emperor honored the scholars as immortals. The scholars, however, were not placated and spread pestilence wherever they went.
A later story gives an entirely opposite view, however. The story has it that the five scholars, on their way to the national capital, overheard the gods of pestilence living in the next room say that they planned to poison the wells in the small town where they were staying. The scholars decided to sacrifice themselves by throwing themselves into the wells. The next day, when the people found their bodies, they refused to drink the water and were therefore spared. On hearing the story of the sacrifice, the local people decided to honor the scholars as immortalized wan-yieh.
One of the most popular stories describes how the Emperor Taitsu of the Ming Dynasty sent 36 scholars on a boat to publicize the benevolence and power of China. As they sailed in the Taiwan Straits, a typhoon capsized their vessel and the men aboard were drowned.
After immortalizing the scholars, the Emperor ordered the construction of huge boat to contain their tablets. Thereafter, people would worship at the boat with gifts of fruit and wine wherever it moored. It is said that those who failed to revere the scholars would be killed in a pestilence.
As the wan-yiehs are regarded by some as gods of pestilence, a custom arose, particularly in Fukien province, of sending out a boatload of wan-yiehs to drive off evil spirits. According to custom, people finding the boat must hold a worship service before sending it to sea again. The fishermen at Nankunshen, however, decided to keep the boat and build a temple for the permanent worship of the scholars. After the original temple became popular all over Taiwan, and thousands of people came to worship there, the number of wan-yieh temples on the island quickly multiplied.
The temple: Covering an area of 2 million square feet, the wan-yieh temple at Peimen is the oldest and largest of its kind in Taiwan. A spacious square flanked by two ornate pavilions can accommodate up to 300 buses and cars at a time. The temple building has three compounds, with phoenixes and dragons perched on the roof. Made from stone brought over from the mainland, all the pillars and walls in the temple are carved with historical figures, animals and plants.
As numerous gods are worshiped by Taoists, the temple houses statues of the Goddess of Mercy, the 18 arhats, the goddess of fertility and other deities as well as the five noblemen. The Hu-yuan Garden at the rear of the temple was originally a stretch of wasteland. To the northwest of the temple can be found the Hai-shan (sea-mountain) Temple set in the middle of the Kun Lake, and reached by an arched bridge. With this attractive setting, it is no wonder that the number of visitors amounted to more than 4 million last year.
Folk artist: Famous folk artist Hung Tung, who did not even start painting until he was more than 60 years old, is one of the temple's lures. Established in the temple compound, Hung uses the building together with traditional stories, rural festivals and other rustic activities, as the themes of his paintings. His strong use of color and lack of technical skill give Hung's works a primitive and traditional flavor. The old man's eccentric behavior and distaste for worldly wealth are a secondary attraction for visitors.
Administration: To organize temple affairs and approve budgets, a 51-member administration commission has been organized. Members are selected from six nearby towns--Peimen, Hsuehchia, Chiangchun, Chiali, Chiku and Shikang--in proportion to population.
The commission uses cash donated by worshipers to promote philanthropic and sports activities. In addition to distributing relief parcels to the needy and aged in the winter, the temple donated NT$2 million (US$55,000) last year to the national self-reliance fund. In 1966, the temple allocated NT$2 million to build a three-storey lodge nearby which can accommodate 3,000 people at a time. The commission also sponsors lectures on the arts and literature, discussion forums and exhibitions to further its constructive role in society.
[Picture Caption]
Nankunshen Temple, located close to Peimen in Tainan County, houses the five wan-yiehs (noblemen). It has the longest history and largest scope of all the temples of its kind.
1. Roofs of Nankunshen Temple. 2. A corner of the temple garden. 3.-5. The refined carvings on the pillars and roof of the temple illustrate the beauty of traditional Chinese architecture. It is said that all the stone slabs are imported from the Chinese mainland.
1. Wu Lung (dancing dragon) pavilion located in front of the temple. 2 & 3. The management commission of the temple sponsors an exhibition of Chinese calligraphy and paintings of Taoist priests. 4. Visitors to the temple enjoy a walk round the garden. 5. The 170-year-old banyan tree planted in front of the temple.
1. The Hu-yuan Garden at Nankunshen was originally a salt flat. As if by miracle, it has been transformed into a fertile land filled with luxuriant plants. 2. After worshipping in the temple, the faithful take a walk in the garden. 3. A fortuneteller draws a large crowd of onlookers. 4. The legendary folk artist Hung Tung recently donned the costume of a high school student and declared that he would start his studies again. 5. Hung's paintings are marked by a childlike enthusiasm.
Nankunshen Temple, located close to Peimen in Tainan County, houses the five wan-yiehs (noblemen). It has the longest history and largest scope of all the temples of its kind.
Nankunshen Temple, located close to Peimen in Tainan County, houses the five wan-yiehs (noblemen). It has the longest history and largest scope of all the temples of its kind.
Roofs of Nankunshen Temple.
A corner of the temple garden.
The refined carvings on the pillars and roof of the temple illustrate the beauty of traditional Chinese architecture. It is said that all the stone slabs are imported from the Chinese mainland.
The refined carvings on the pillars and roof of the temple illustrate the beauty of traditional Chinese architecture. It is said that all the stone slabs are imported from the Chinese mainland.
The refined carvings on the pillars and roof of the temple illustrate the beauty of traditional Chinese architecture. It is said that all the stone slabs are imported from the Chinese mainland.
Wu Lung (dancing dragon) pavilion located in front of the temple.
The management commission of the temple sponsors an exhibition of Chinese calligraphy and paintings of Taoist priests.
The management commission of the temple sponsors an exhibition of Chinese calligraphy and paintings of Taoist priests.
Visitors to the temple enjoy a walk round the garden.
The 170-year-old banyan tree planted in front of the temple.
The Hu-yuan Garden at Nankunshen was originally a salt flat. As if by miracle, it has been transformed into a fertile land filled with luxuriant plants.
After worshipping in the temple, the faithful take a walk in the garden.
A fortuneteller draws a large crowd of onlookers.
The legendary folk artist Hung Tung recently donned the costume of a high school student and declared that he would start his studies again.
Hung's paintings are marked by a childlike enthusiasm.