Parents anywhere just want the best:
Of all the types of performing procession, the ones which involve the most people are the centipedes. To take Chihe Kung temple's 36-person centipede as an example: the children, along with one accompanying parent each, make 72 people, and with 154 bearers, plus another 60 workers to carry the incense and flags and set off the firecrackers, it all adds up to over 280 people. And for a centipede three times this size, the whole procession will form an army more than 800 strong.
Once every three years, the centipede makes a thorough tour of the whole area. But this is not such a year, and by seven in the evening the column has already found its way back to Chihe Kung. "This time it's just one day, so it hasn't been too tiring. Last year my son rode for three days and still wanted to ride; we grown-ups were worn out! His dad took three days off work just for that," says a mother who has been walking with the procession.
A three-day tour not only takes time; it also costs three times as much money. In most processions, there is usually some payment for the performers, but in those processions where children ride in floats or on a centipede, the children have to make a contribution to the temple. This year in the Chihe Kung procession, each child acting a part on the centipede had to stump up NT$13,000; for a three day event it would have been close to NT$40,000, and a family with two children taking part would have had NT$80,000 to find. The one chosen to be Emperor by casting crescent blocks doesn't get away with less than a six-figure sum! "Parents anywhere just want the best for their children. Some grandfathers will even break into their own secret nest egg to pay for their favorite grandchild to take part. In the old days, people were poor, and would only pay for their sons to take part, not their daughters; nowadays people even put their daughters' daughters' names down," says Chen Fang-chin, himself a doting grandparent.
Seeing these children perched proudly up on high, it strikes one that the most arduous burden falls on their parents, looking after their kids' wellbeing from down below. They spend time and money, and even have to go from door to door borrowing residence booklets in order to improve their children's chances of being chosen. Clearly it's this kind of parental love, the same the world over, which ensures that this centipede procession is so eagerly awaited every year.
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What a grand sight! The centipede sets out on its journey, carrying 108 people from head to tail (photo by Pu Hua-chih).
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This loving grandfather has used his own private savings to pay for his grandson to act a part on the centipede; the boy's father, who has come along to help, once also had the luck to be chosen, a one-in-a-hundred chance.
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Playing a part on the centipede is a big event for these children, who have to start being made up as early as three or four in the morning. Though their eyes are heavy with sleep, it's an unforgettable new experience (photo by Pu Hua-chih).
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As the procession rests at lunch-time, mothers who have followed alongside all morning unfold chairs and fan their children while wiping the sweat from their brows. Mother love is the same the world over!
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The long centipede surrounds all the people gathered on the temple forecourt. "Circling the temple" to drive out evil and attract good fortune is the high point of the procession.
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The centipede from Chihe Kung temple at Houshe near Hsuehchia is now the only one in Taiwan which still relies wholly on human muscle power to carry it along. When it draws near to a town or village, the people all rush to kneel on the ground and let the centipede step over them, to keep them safe from harm.