Changhua’s unique braised pork over rice
The fact that braised pork over rice was able to become one of Changhua’s trademark dishes is thanks in no small part to the county’s abundant agricultural production. Water from the Zhoushui River enters the Babao Canal to irrigate the plain’s thousands of paddies and fields. The high-quality water is also why Changhua has many century-old soy sauce manufacturers. Meanwhile, Changhua ranks third for pig rearing among Taiwan’s counties and has the abundant seafood characteristic of a coastal county. Ingredients for braised pork include pork, soy sauce, spring onions and also the sugar cane or clams that a small number establishments add to the marinade for a certain fresh flavor. A bowl of braised pork over rice does indeed combine the treasures of local agricultural production as well as the bounty of the sea.
And with quality ingredients, the flavor is pure and simple. Changhua braised pork over rice doesn’t need to be heavily spiced or bolstered with Chinese medicinal herbs. “The main seasoning is soy sauce, giving it a simple, slightly savory flavor,” notes Chen Shu-hua, the author of Changhua Snacks, who has searched widely for the county’s authentic foods.
Mouthfeel is likewise an aspect of eating that residents of Changhua emphasize. Taiwanese prefer foods with the pliant chewiness they call “Q,” an unmistakable feature of Changhua braised pork over rice. Its rice should not be excessively soggy, nor turn soft after adding the sauce.
Changhua’s braised pork chefs don’t use the otherwise ubiquitous pork belly. Instead they favor pork shank and other cuts from the legs. Apart from being convenient to cut into chunks and trim properly, it’s also because Changhua braised pork does not have the “melt-in-the-mouth” quality of Dongpo pork or Hakka fengrou pork. Pigskin stewed for a long time remains supple and chewy. As a result, the leaner shank and hock meats with their firm texture have become top choices.
But to make the pork taste well-seasoned but not dry or tough, establishments must expend some effort while stewing. They can’t simply put a pot of marinated meat on a slow simmer. The cooks at Changhua’s food stalls and eateries are masters of heat control. Many of them choose to cycle through lower and higher temperatures, braising in stages. And to keep the skin and meat together while braising, they skewer the skin and the lean meat together. It creates a unique look that makes Changhua’s braised pork stand out from others.
Different cuts of braised pork offer different flavors.