Zhuilu Old Road
Zhuilu Old Road runs close by a cliff, and is the steepest and most dangerous trail in Taroko Gorge, but for this very reason it offers fantastic views. One can see the clouds floating over the peak of Tashan across the way, and look down to the Liwu River and road more than 700 meters below. Moving along the trail you also will see an ever-richer variety of unique plant life, as Lin explains: “Many species that migrated southward in the ice ages came to Taiwan, but as the ice retreated and the Taiwan Strait appeared, they were left to face one of two fates: to go extinct, or to evolve into species endemic to Taiwan. In Taroko Gorge in particular, the gorge topography blocked possible migration routes, so that many plants evolved into locally endemic species that are found only in Taroko.”
Among the plant species thus far known to science, Lin explains, there are 63 whose Chinese names refer to places or mountains within Taroko National Park. They include the Taroko oak (Quercus tarokoensis); Price’s climbing rose (Rosa pricei), called the Taroko rose in Chinese; the red-spotted rhododendron (Rhododendron hyperythrum), called the Nanhu rhododendron; and Ponerorchis kiraishiensis, called the Qilai red orchid. Of these 63, fully 56 are endemic to Taiwan.
The former Badagang Police Station on Zhuilu Old Road is located on rocky ground with a dry microclimate. There you can see Taroko oak trees, with their bristly, fine-sawtoothed leaf margins. Walking further upward, Lin points out two rare species: the Taroko hornbeam (Carpinus hebestroma) and the Taroko barberry (Berberis tarokoensis). He says: “The Dr. Cecilia Koo Botanic Conservation Center, which preserves tropical and subtropical plants from around the world, considers the Taroko hornbeam very important.” Although Zhuilu Old Road is located in a subtropical area at less than 1000 meters elevation, it is exposed to the northeasterly monsoon winds, so the ambient temperature is low, and even cold-loving plants like the Formosan juniper (Juniperus formosana) grow here.
The ecologically rich Zhuilu Old Road was a police road during Japanese rule, used for patrolling the mountain areas where the Truku people lived and for transporting supplies for the police. In 1914, a police inspector named Masa Umezawa, who was an expert in mountain road construction, led a work crew to build a road along the Zhuilu Cliff. But on seeing the cliff, workers brought in from Japan refused to tackle it, and Umezawa had to recruit young indigenous people to carry out the blasting and chiseling work along the cliff face.
Work on the Zhuilu Cliff road took seven months to complete and cost 37 lives. Nelson Yang and Hsu Ju-lin, scholars of historic trails in Taiwan, found from historical documents that after the road was opened, Japanese scholars began to use it for access to study the natural history of the middle and upper reaches of the Liwu River. For example, Dr. Masamitsu Oshima (1884-1965), who first described the Formosan landlocked salmon, was escorted by police along this road as far as the former Tabito Police Station (Truku name Tpdu; now the village of Tianxiang). He announced to the Truku people that he would pay a high price for Mikado pheasants, and the next day he received 15 pairs of these birds, which he later took back with him to Japan.
Along the Shakadang Trail one can see this enormous water pipe, which dates to the era of Japanese rule.