There are no forbidden fruits in Chuolan. In fact, the area--North Central Taiwan's Miaoli County, not far from Taichung--with its yearlong abundance of succulent fruit, might well be a "Garden of Eden." Wandering through an idyllic countryside of mountains, streams and lush foliage, the traveller might easily imagine himself in one of the pastoral masterpieces of Watteau or Fragonard. For the Chinese, the scenery evokes the enchanted landscape of the Ching dynasty classic, "Travels of Lao Ts'an".

Blessed with a mild climate and an ideal growing environment, Chuolan's fruit production is continuous and prolific, allowing 90% of its residents to rely on year-round fruit cultivation for a comfortable income. The popular carambola (star fruit) appears in spring, fall and winter; luscious grapes burst forth in summer and winter, while loquats, peaches, plums, pineapples and tangerines--among others--all appear in their seasons. It's hardly surprising, then, that for many residents of Taiwan, Chuolan is simply "Fruit Country", and even less surprising that many families flock to the area on holidays and weekends.

As elsewhere in Taiwan, land is used to its best advantage in Chuolan. The verdant mountainsides provide a suitable and scenic setting for fruit cultivation and the area's inherent features--such as its excellent natural drainage--are fully exploited by the local farmers. Sheltered by surrounding mountains in the north, east and west, and opening on to plains in the south, Chuolan geographically has a touch of the Shangrila about it.

Fruit can readily flourish in the spring-like atmosphere of the region. In Taiwan's hot summer, mountains shade Chuolan from the blazing sun, while in the island's cold and damp winter, the same protecting mountains serve as buffers to icy norland blasts. All in all, a more than comfortable environment for fruit--and people.

Ask for a farmer in Chuolan, a place where road names and formal addresses count for little, and natives will point your way to "Grape Villa", "Pear Cottage" or perhaps "Peach Mews". Profits from fruit cultivation are usually plowed back into home construction or renovation, and grateful owners tend to name their houses in honor of the crop that paid for them.

Chuolan's hard-working farmers--who provide another natural factor in the area's agricultural success story--are mainly Hakkas who migrated to Taiwan in the Ching dynasty. Some found themselves in Chuolan, then inhabited mainly by mountain people.

Surrounding mountain ranges made contacts scarce and communication difficult with other Hakka groups to the north, east and west. Since establishing settlements in Chuolan and adjacent areas, the Hakkas gradually assimilated many of the customs and characteristics of their southern neighbors, and today tend to have much more in common with the local residents of nearby Taichung than with other Hakka groups.

The Hakkas have carried their reputation as a hard-working and industrious people into Chuolan, and have made it thrive. No matter how many natural advantages Chuolan has, fruit cultivation still requires sweat and toil. Each family has its own plot or orchard and every member is expected to do his or her share of the work. During peak seasons workdays can be long. Friendly competition between families in orchards and in the market place assures an all-out effort on everyone's part. It's almost impossible to find an idle hand in Chuolan.

When not working, which is rare, the entertainment to be found in Chuolan is limited. Though at one time the town supported two movie theaters, one has since closed down, and the future of the remaining one is by no means certain. The home is the center for most entertaining, as it is for work.

One major public event is the weekly night market, an occasion when Chuolan's normally placid and empty streets resound with talk, shouting and market noises. Young and old crowd to the market, giving it a festival-like air. Even the family's dogs and cats add to the excitement.

Probably the most variety of goods sold on the market can be found in fruit, and this holds true of the local diet as well. Meals tend to be simple, with fruit prominently featured. Chuolan inhabitants even go so far as to claim that a fruit diet is the main reason why women in the area have such clear, lovely complexions. Perhaps such a hypothesis isn't so far fetched after all. Though guests are likely to be offered the same simple everyday fare that the host's family eats, Chuolan is not lacking in more sumptuous entertainment, as the roaring success of a "modern-style" restaurant complete with air conditioning and interior decorating attests.

The Farmer's Association of Chuolan is playing an important role in the agricultural life of the region. Founded in 1973, all local farmers are members. Dedicated to improving not only the quality of crops, but also the quality of life for farmers, the Association helps its members in various ways. As the Association's, Lu Ch'ing-chu explains, "the Association's main work is to provide information and services, introduce and refine agricultural techniques, help improve crop quality, promote cooperation and maintain existing services." Other services include help in marketing crops, arranging loans and maintaining a savings society.

One example of a modern farmer who's been helped by the Association is Hsu Hai-lang. Barely 30 years old, Hsu was the winner of a grape growing competition. He attributes his success in part to innovative techniques introduced by the Agricultural Association and of course to a time-honored tradition: "if you're willing to work hard," he says, "you can make it." But hard work in the days of high technology includes research. Thus, Hsu attends meetings, seminars and discussions held by the Association on the most recent trends in the world's oldest enterprise. In his view--not an uncommon one among his contemporaries--"agriculture is like any other business......if you think ahead, you're bound to be successful."

Twenty-eight year old Hsu Yi-lu of "Carambola Cottage" is another innovator in local agriculture. Hsu comes from a family closely tied to the land for generations, like most of his neighbors, but is willing to experiment, while never forsaking the best of traditional methods. Borrowing money from the Association he planted carambolas and tangerines. Careful pruning was one key method Hsu used in producing his high quality yield, and one significant break with tradition. For while selective pruning is now generally recognized as an efficient way to raise crop quality, many older farmers can't abide to adopt what they shortsightedly deem a wasteful method.

Out of a slightly different mold, but also embodying the foresightedness and open-mindedness of the younger generation is Chan Yao-hua. A graduate of Taiwan University's Law Department, Chan faced an undoubtedly lucrative future as a professional, but family ties urged his return to the farm. Putting his logical, precise, and legally trained mind to work, Chan has prospered as a fruit producer. One of his innovations was to store tangerines in an airy, bamboo and thatch storehouse, as opposed to the traditional clay structures. Thus, fruit could be kept intact well after the peak seasons and brought to market later, when prices had gone up.

A final element in the Chuolan success story is the agricultural agent. In this, the town has been fortunate to have the services of Chan Je-ch'eng, who has held the position of director of agricultural operations for over ten years, since his graduation from agricultural school. Like the country doctor of yore, the local association's agent spends much of his time in the field. It is, Chan says, more "a matter of conscience". He has sufficient energy and enthusiasm to make his job rewarding to himself and the Chuolan farmers. Modestly downplaying his talents--"I am not an expert", he says--Chan sees his mission as simply introducing any methods that will help raise the quality of local produce. Certainly, some of Chuolan's renown can be traced to the earnest ministrations of Chan and other agents.

For years a sort of Peach Blossom Spring--the inaccessible, unspoiled land of the Chinese fairy tale--Chuolan has been discovered by the outside world. Its natural isolation made it an unlikely tourist destination in earlier times, but Chuolan's enticing scenery and famous fruit made its discovery inevitable. Now, in the age of ready transportation, widespread communication, and with an increase in pleasure trips, Chuolan is widely favored as a holiday spot. Though at first reluctant to beat their own drum, Chuolan residents have since become aware of the advantages of publicity--and of the improvements it necessitates: wider roads, tourist services, parking space, etc. Local promotion of the region's natural attractions have helped engender its popularity, and now travelers in Taiwan have another spot--and perhaps the most enjoyable of all--to add to their list of favorites.

(Paul Shackman)

[Picture Caption]

1. During the intense heat of summer, visitors often refresh themselves in the cooling waters of the Chang Ch'ing Valley. 2. A farmer among the vines picking the ripened grapes encased in plastic bags. 3. Luscious Chufeng grapes--just one of Chuolan's bountiful fruit crops.

1. A village woman places the fresh carambola (star fruit) in plastic bags. 2.3. Chuolan produces many types of fresh fruits. Among these are 2. pears and 3. persimmons. 4. The exquisite blossom of the carambola tree.

1. A local resident prepares food outside her door. 2. Farmers bring their fresh fruit produce to the local market for sale. 3. With his full attention focused on his task, this small boy rinses his milk bottle. 4. The scenery of Chuolan's Suankan mountain is reminiscent of a Chinese landscape painting.

1. Attired in the farmer's traditional hat and rain cape, a scarecrow stands lonely vigil in a field. 2. A farmer spreads fertilizer. 3. Sun-dried cowpea pods. 4. After a long day's labor, farmers take a break to enjoy a bowl of their favorite snack. 5. The delicate flower of the sponge gourd.

1. Bird's eye view of Chuolan. 2. A sparkling waterfall among the orange groves of P'inglin district. 3. Domesticated pigeons are released for a training flight on a levee. 4. A young girl with umbrella strolls along a dike.

1.The soldiers' shrine of a former military camp at Nanhu. 2. A small roadside earth shrine. 3. Cloaking the mountain slopes, the fronds of the miscanthus sinensis grass blow in the fresh breeze.

2. A farmer among the vines picking the ripened grapes encased in plastic bags.

3. Luscious Chufeng grapes--just one of Chuolan's bountiful fruit crops.

1. A local resident prepares food outside her door.

2.3. Chuolan produces many types of fresh fruits. Among these are 2. pears and.

persimmons.

4. The exquisite blossom of the carambola tree.

1. A local resident prepares food outside her door.

2. Farmers bring their fresh fruit produce to the local market for sale.

3. With his full attention focused on his task, this small boy rinses his milk bottle.

4. The scenery of Chuolan's Suankan mountain is reminiscent of a Chinese landscape painting.

1. Attired in the farmer's traditional hat and rain cape, a scarecrow stands lonely vigil in a field.

2. A farmer spreads fertilizer.

3. Sun-dried cowpea pods.

4. After a long day's labor, farmers take a break to enjoy a bowl of their favorite snack.

5. The delicate flower of the sponge gourd.

1. Bird's eye view of Chuolan.

2. A sparkling waterfall among the orange groves of P'inglin district.

3. Domesticated pigeons are released for a training flight on a levee.

4. A young girl with umbrella strolls along a dike.

1.The soldiers' shrine of a former military camp at Nanhu.

2. A small roadside earth shrine.

3. Cloaking the mountain slopes, the fronds of the miscanthus sinensis grass blow in the fresh breeze.