The Hakka people are unique among all of the ethnic groupings in China. Driven to the south from their northern homeland during various historical periods of invasion by northern tribes, they were given the name "Hakka," which literally translated means "guest families," due to the fact that no matter how long they stayed or where they went within southern China, they were always looked upon as outsiders. For as long as they wandered nomadically throughout the region, the foodstuffs which they carried with them from their homeland were an invaluable source of sustenance. In ancient times food provisions were most commonly either sun-dried or salted in order to facilitate long-term preservation and ease of transport. These two types of victuals have consequently long held the most important positions in the cuisine of the Hakkas. As a result, their dishes often leave people with an impression of a heavy, yet tasty, unembellished "home-made" style of cooking.

Most of the relatively few Hakka chefs working in Taiwan today can be generally divided into two categories; those who crossed the Taiwan Straits around 1949, and those who are descendants of Hakkas who came over much earlier, at about the time of the change from the Ming to the Ching Dynasties (circa mid-seventeenth century). The former have for the most part retained the unique traditional "mountain flavor" of Hakka cuisine, although a few dishes such as fish balls and beef balls have been undeniably influenced by Cantonese cooking methods. The latter, having already been established in Taiwan for well over two hundred years, have inescapably adopted some of the characteristics of Taiwanese cookery. For instance, due to the plenitude of fresh seafood on Taiwan. the Hakkas here have gradually become accustomed to the addition of sea products to their diet. Furthermore, the relatively hot climate of tropical Taiwan has led to a major reduction in the salt content of their foods, the saltiness being gradually replaced by the light, sweet-and-sour style of Taiwanese dishes.

In comparison to the rest of Taiwan, the market for Hakka cuisine seems to be especially large in Taipei. Besides the fact that the urban population of Taipei simply tends to eat out more frequently than people in other areas of the island, says the owner of one Hakka restaurant, "perhaps because the people in Taipei have eaten more of the famous, elaborate dishes served in the more formal restaurants here, the relatively simple, 'down home' flavor of Hakka food holds for them a contrary kind of appeal."

Of the Hakka restaurants in Taipei, Tien Chao and Hsin Tao Fang enjoy the longest histories. Tien Chao was opened in 1949, and although the owner was born and raised in the small Taiwan town of Miaoli, the entire kitchen staff at the time was one hundred percent uniformly Kwangtung-bred Hakkas who had recently retired from military service. Hence the traditional Kwangtung methods of preparing Hakka cuisine remained prevalent here.

Although they have already surpassed seventy years in age, two members of that original cooking staff remain on active duty in the kitchen even today, so that they have become invaluable assets for this now famous eatery. Tien Chao has changed its location three times over the years; in addition, there is more than one other restaurant in Taipei which goes by this name. Therefore, whenever an old customer from years back shows up at a new locale and wants to check the credentials of the restaurant, the sight of these two gentlemen is all the proof he will need to know that he has indeed come to the right place.

Of the many delectable dishes available at Tien Chao, steamed tofu is especially popular. This dish is a particular favorite of the Hakkas themselves and is often reserved for entertaining guests; it may be counted as one of the most exquisite dishes among Hakka cuisine. Its preparation requires quite a bit of time, and proceeds as follows: First a quantity of seventy percent lean pork is chopped into small pieces, the smaller the better (this shall be used as stuffing). Next are added some salted and chopped herring, chopped squid, the juice of green onion, ginger extract, and salt. This mixture is then gently stuffed into the center of triangular pieces of tofu with the centers removed, which are in turn placed in bamboo steaming baskets and steamed until hot. Finally a little starch is added for thickening and this delicate, white steamed tofu, its salty flavor carrying the juices of the tender pork and just a hint of fresh fish, is ready to please both the eyes and the palate.

The Hsin Tao Fang restaurant was first opened in 1945 in the city of Canton; eight years later it was reopened in Taipei. Its careful preservation of the authentic flavors of the famous Tungchiang Hakka dishes have always made this restaurant a special attraction, especially as concerns the house specialty, salt-roasted chicken.

The ancient recipe used by the cooks at Hsin Tao Fang in preparing this dish requires several hours more preparation time than those used by other restaurants, but the end result is definitely worth the time spent. A thick layer of course salt is first spread over a two-foot square of gauze, onto which is placed a 2-3 kilogram half of a chicken. The gauze is then sewn up around the chicken, which is placed in a large pot and slowly roasted over glowing coals. "The special flavor of salt-roasted chicken is entirely dependent on the cooking time, and it must be eaten as soon as it comes off of the fire or it will lose the fullness of its flavor," explains manager Hsieh Chen-chang. Therefore the longstanding patrons of Hsin Tao Fang have a tacit understanding with the restaurant staff; if one orders salt-roasted chicken, ones waits patiently.

When compared with the other well-known, more difficult to prepare Chinese dishes of Peking, Szechwan, and Kiangsi/ Chekiang, the food of the Hakkas is easily the simplest; though it is enriched with a truly original flavor. Furthermore, the decor of most Hakka restaurants is extremely informal, certainly lacking the banquet-hall atmosphere of many other restaurants. But in the realm of small eateries, you could never find any more relaxed and comfortable than those of the Hakka people.

[Picture Caption]

These Hakka housewives took advantage of a rare clear winter's day to sun-dry pickled vegetables in a harvested field outside of Miaoli.

Children look for treasure in the wine jugs that their mothers will use for storing dried turnips.

This dish of pig's intestine is common in home-made family meals.

A dish of tender thigh of pork is a pleasure for both the eyes and the palate.

Salt-roasted chicken is covered in salt and roasted in an iron pot over glowing coals.

Dried turnip fried with egg goes especially well with rice gruel.

Tripe and pickled vegetables with a clear, slightly sour soup.

Pork in brown sauce with "dried mustard cabbage" whets even the lightest of appetites.

(Left) Steamed tofu stuffed with pork bits and salted fish is one of the most exquisite dishes in Hakka cuisine.

(Center) Fried eggplant with a good dash of chiu ts'eng t'a is really delicious.

(Right) Squid with fried pork is a must for any Hakka banquet.

"When in Rome do as the Romans do." The first dish at this Hakka wedding is a Taiwanese cold plate.

These Hakka housewives took advantage of a rare clear winter's day to sun-dry pickled vegetables in a harvested field outside of Miaoli.

Children look for treasure in the wine jugs that their mothers will use for storing dried turnips.

This dish of pig's intestine is common in home-made family meals.

A dish of tender thigh of pork is a pleasure for both the eyes and the palate.

Salt-roasted chicken is covered in salt and roasted in an iron pot over glowing coals.