During the Ching dynasty, the port of Lukang on Taiwan's west-central coast was one of the island's most important ports, and along with Tainan and Mengchia (currently the Wanhua district of Taipei) was a main point of entry for immigrants from the China mainland. Later, as the harbor silted up, Lukang became something of a backwater, and the town escaped most of the encroachments of modern civilization. As a result, the old port is enjoying a vogue at the moment as a place where the old traditions and culture of Taiwan are preserved.
The name Lukang means "deer harbor" in English, and is probably derived from the many deer that once roamed the area. Its natural harbor able to hold up to 200 junks, and its position as the nearest port to the mainland, made Lukang a principal landing place for immigrants from areas south of the Min River in Fukien province.
During the Ching dynasty, Taiwan's infrastructure was slowly improved and the construction of roads and railways led to the establishment of many new settlements. With its harbor no longer functioning, however, Lukang's residents had to rely on handicrafts and fishing to make a living. This turn of events was to prove beneficial in one respect, since the skill of ancient artisans can be seen in Lukang's broad gardens, brick walls and narrow lanes.
Lukang's busiest thoroughfare, Chungshan Road was one of the town's famous covered streets 40 years ago. The streets were covered to keep out the sand blown in from the coast, which caused respiratory illnesses, and to discourage pirates and other marauders.
At that time, the street was lined with more than 200 shops, and was the commercial center of the town. The roofs had skylights to let in some sunshine, but still shopkeepers had to burn candles during business hours. In 1934, during the period of the Japanese occupation, Lukang's streets were widened and the coverings removed.
Even so, vestiges of this unique architecture can be seen in the houses and shops that line Lukang's streets. The shop-houses are narrow but long and usually contain either two or three interconnected structures separated by small gardens. These gardens helped to light up the dwellings which were surrounded by high walls to ensure privacy.
Another reminder of Lukang's past is the Street of Nine Turns, built with so many twists to keep out the winter winds. It was said that no matter how cold it was, when one entered the Street of Nine Turns, it was instantly spring. Now that Lukang is situated a good distance from the sea, the winter winds no longer pose such a problem.
Other structures giving Lukang its special character are towers with turrets on the walls of the town which were used as look-outs and as rifle positions to ward off robbers and pirates. Dispersed throughout Lukang at one time were many "strategic gates". Now these gates are merely historical curiosities but originally they too served a defensive purpose. These gates, however, were not used to protect Lukang's residents from outside threats but rather, to protect them from each other. Early in its history Lukang was plagued by clan warfare. Eventually walls were erected separating the different clans from each other. Once the gates were locked no amount of force could force them open and so it was said "evil could not pass the 'strategic gates'".
During Lukang's heyday there was no lack of alcoholic beverages, and lanes and alleys were filled with empty wine jugs and urns. Eventually, people began to use these vessels to decorate their walls. Lime and brown sugar were mixed to form a mortar which was then used to hold the jugs in place. These "jug walls" became a hallmark of Lukang. It is even said people would hide their money in some of the jugs as protection against thieves.
Handicrafts and fishing are currently the mainstays of the Lukang economy. In the past Lukang's temple builders were artisans who came over from the mainland, and Lukang carpenters acted as their assistants. As time went by Lukang's own craftsmen mastered traditional building techniques, and today Lukang's woodcarvings and furniture are famous throughout Taiwan. Visitors arrive in Lukang from all over Taiwan to buy traditional Chinese dining tables, armchairs, spirit palanquins and idols. Besides wood carving, the town is also known for its bamboo baskets, lampshades and related handicrafts.
As Lukang has been modernized, traces of its past are slowly disappearing. Architect Han Pao-te is concerned over the preservation of the town's historical temples and streets. He has proposed establishing a "Historic Lukang," and hopes the government will cut back on development plans for the area and help preserve Lukang's cultural and historical relics instead.
Just as traditional architecture has gradually disappeared, so too traditional folk customs are being diluted by outside influences. But a new appreciation of Lukang's heritage has led to the establishment of an annual Lukang Folk Festival which attracts more and more visitors from around the island every year.
A publisher familiar with Lukang commented. "I think in the future Lukang's spiritual aspects such as poetry recitation, traditional music, and chess, will slowly disappear. Its more concrete attributes, such as handicrafts, will gradually be developed, however. More and more orders are coming in from all over for these products."
Plans are being worked out to rebuild Lukang's coastal area into an industrial district so the economy can flourish again. If the last few decades of isolation are considered unfortunate, then this may be a turning point in Lukang's history. Many people consider, however, that the preservation of Lukang's heritage is a matter of good fortune, and that many things should be left as they are.
[Picture Caption]
1. One of Lukang's traditional windows. 2. Traditionally the door is placed between two windows. 3,4. Most buildings in Lukang were constructed with wood. 5. The covered streets are now a thing of the past.
Left: Traditional bamboo furniture. Right: The skylight is one of the trademarks of Lukang architecture.
1-4. Decorative bricks add to the beauty of Lukang's architecture. 5,6. Relics of Lukang's past. 7,8. Lukang's Lung Shan Temple is one of the few in Taiwan built by mainland artisans.
1. Carving on a Lung Shan Temple door. 2. One of the temple's many ceilings. 3. The temple has preserved its ancient appearance. 4. One of the temple guardians. 5. Lukang residents go out to sea to worship the goddess Matsu. 6. The temple is not just the focus of the people's devotion but also a gathering place as well.
1. The strategic gates were originally used to separate feuding clans. Now they are a reminder of the past. 2. Jug walls were made with empty wine vessels. 3. Wells in Lukang were built into the wall so that they could be shared by families on either side of the wall. 4. Rifle closets were built as a defense against robbers and pirates. 5. Auspicious words used to ward away evil spirits. 6. The Folk Museum. 7. The Lukang Pyramids are graves.
1. Because of the large number of temples, the incense industry is well developed in Lukang. 2. Making noodles. 3. An older resident of Lukang. 4. A roof covered with vines. 5. An old woman in traditional clothing. 6. A concert at Lung Shan Temple.
1. Lukang is renowned for its peaceful atmosphere. 2. The woodworkers of Lukang are all well known. 3. Lukang's bamboo baskets are carefully crafted as of old. 4. Everyone plays chess, even the children. 5. Wooden idols are one of the handicrafts for which Lukang is so well known. 6. Brick walls and flowers are a common sight in Lukang.
Traditionally the door is placed between two windows.
Most buildings in Lukang were constructed with wood.
Most buildings in Lukang were constructed with wood.
The covered streets are now a thing of the past.
Traditional bamboo furniture.
The skylight is one of the trademarks of Lukang architecture.
Decorative bricks add to the beauty of Lukang's architecture.
Decorative bricks add to the beauty of Lukang's architecture.
Decorative bricks add to the beauty of Lukang's architecture.
Decorative bricks add to the beauty of Lukang's architecture.
Lukang's Lung Shan Temple is one of the few in Taiwan built by mainland artisans.
Lukang's Lung Shan Temple is one of the few in Taiwan built by mainland artisans.
Carving on a Lung Shan Temple door.
One of the temple's many ceilings.
The temple has preserved its ancient appearance.
One of the temple guardians.
Lukang residents go out to sea to worship the goddess Matsu.
The temple is not just the focus of the people's devotion but also a gathering place as well.
The strategic gates were originally used to separate feuding clans. Now they are a reminder of the past.
Jug walls were made with empty wine vessels.
Wells in Lukang were built into the wall so that they could be shared by families on either side of the wall.
Rifle closets were built as a defense against robbers and pirates.
Auspicious words used to ward away evil spirits.
The Lukang Pyramids are graves.
Because of the large number of temples, the incense industry is well developed in Lukang.
An older resident of Lukang.
A roof covered with vines.
An old woman in traditional clothing.
A concert at Lung Shan Temple.
Lukang is renowned for its peaceful atmosphere.
The woodworkers of Lukang are all well known.
Lukang's bamboo baskets are carefully crafted as of old.
Everyone plays chess, even the children.
Wooden idols are one of the handicrafts for which Lukang is so well known.
Brick walls and flowers are a common sight in Lukang.
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