Since ancient times in China wine has been regarded along with fuel, rice, Oil, salt, sauce, vinegar and tea as one of the necessities of daily life. Today, wine plays a pivotal role in any repast to which guests are invited. Of all the wines made in Taiwan, Shaohsing and Old Shaohsing are the most popular, accounting for about 5 percent of all wine sales.

Shaohsing wine orginated in Shaohsing prefecture of Chekiang Province in southern China. Its moderate alcohol content gives it body, while the rice used to make it gives it nutritional value. It has become traditional to warm the bottle with hot water before serving, as this is said to improve the flavor. Some even add sour plums or lemonade to further enhance the taste.

The successful production of Shaohsing wine in Taiwan can be attributed to two brothers, Chou Ping-wen and Chou Chin-shan, both of whom are in their 80s and live in Puli in Nantou County in central Taiwan. Retired now for many years from the Puli winery, the brothers are natives of Huangyai County in Chekiang Province, which used to come under the Shaohsing prefecture in ancient times.

For several generations, the Chou family has been in the business of selling and producing Shaohsing wine, and once had 10 wineries and wine stores. In 1951, they started a profitable association with the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau.

The two brothers explained that there is no particular formula for making Shaohsing wine, and everything depends on the skill of the brewer. With the help of some chemical engineers, the two brothers developed a formula based on the right blend of materials and water, and the ideal climate in Taiwan. After conducting several trials, the bureau chose Puli as the site of its main production plant, and assigned the two brothers to work there. Today, plants are located in Taipei, Taichung, Hualien, Tainan and Pingtung. The Puli winery, however, is still the doyen of all the plants, and is the only one where Old Shaohsing is produced.

At first, the production facilities at Puli were simple and crude. Containers with a capacity of only 48 gallons were used to for fermentation. As demand for the wine grew, stainless steel vats with a capacity of 1,600 gallons each were used.

Glutinous rice, ponglai rice and wheat are the main raw materials used in making Shaohsing. After being polished and crushed, the ponglai rice and wheat are soaked for 15 hours. The resulting mash is placed in a steaming machine for 30 minutes before aspergilli are added to aid the fermentation process. The next step is to mix the steamed glutinous rice with the ponglai rice and wheat and add water, after which the fermentation process can begin. During this process, the temperature around the vats must be kept down, as too much heat will turn the brew sour. The cooling facilities at the Puli winery are able to maintain an even temperature throughout the fermentation process.

During the first stage of fermentation, which lasts 12 days, the temperature around the giant stainless steel vats is kept at between 7 and 8 degrees Celsius. During the second fermentation period, lasting for about 18 days, the vats are sealed, and the temperature is raised to 17 or 18 degrees.

The brew is then filtered with an automatic mash filtration machine. After being pasteurized, the finished product is sealed in earthen vessels and kept for at least two years, or in the case of Old Shaohsing, for five years. As a result of its greater age, Old Shaohsing has a more mellow flavor and a brilliant golden color.

Half of Taiwan's annual output of two million dozen bottles is produced at the Puli winery. Statistics show that last year, about 100,000 dozen bottles were exported to Japan, Hong Kong, the United States and countries in Southeast Asia. The Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau is planning to expand its facilities for producing Shaohsing wine to a capacity of 7.23 million dozen by the end of 1985, and to 10 million dozen by 1986.

[Picture Caption]

1. The success in producing Shaohsing can be attributed to all the workers at the Taiwan Tobacco and Wine Monopoly Bureau, including the Chou brothers. 2. Glutinous rice, ponglai rice and wheat are the major raw materials used in brewing Shaohsing. The flavor is the best among all the wines produced in Taiwan. 3. The Puli winery produces the largest quantity of Shaohsing, partly as a result of the fine spring water in the area. Picture shows the giant water tower at the Puli winery. 4. The fermentation process is the most important part of making Shaohsing. The process is divided into two stages, primary and secondary. 5. & 6. After being pasteurized, the finished product is sealed in earthen vessels. It takes at least two years to make ordinary Shaohsing, while Old Shaohsing is stored for five years before being sold.

1. 2. 3. The process of making Shaohsing is totally mechanized and under strict quality control. 4. Shaohsing plays a pivotal role in any repast to which guests are invited.

Glutinous rice, ponglai rice and wheat are the major raw materials used in brewing Shaohsing. The flavor is the best among all the wines produced in Taiwan.

The Puli winery produces the largest quantity of Shaohsing, partly as a result of the fine spring water in the area. Picture shows the giant water tower at the Puli winery.

The fermentation process is the most important part of making Shaohsing. The process is divided into two stages, primary and secondary.

After being pasteurized, the finished product is sealed in earthen vessels. It takes at least two years to make ordinary Shaohsing, while Old Shaohsing is stored for five years before being sold.

After being pasteurized, the finished product is sealed in earthen vessels. It takes at least two years to make ordinary Shaohsing, while Old Shaohsing is stored for five years before being sold.

The process of making Shaohsing is totally mechanized and under strict quality control.

The process of making Shaohsing is totally mechanized and under strict quality control.

The process of making Shaohsing is totally mechanized and under strict quality control.

Shaohsing plays a pivotal role in any repast to which guests are invited.