Gold medal for wild food
In 2021 Hualien County sponsored the world’s first slow food forum with an emphasis on indigenous cooking. Sera Kahengangay, a member of the Taiwan Indigenous Peoples Cooks’ Alliance and spokesperson for Indigenous Terra Madre 2023, won a gold medal in 2023 at the Oceania International Master Chef Challenge in New Zealand. He recalls: “When I heard I had won, I teared up because I was so moved to be able to represent Amis cuisine from Taiwan, and see items such as alivongvong and Amis-style lobster balls with scallions gain international recognition.”
An alivongvong is a pouch woven from pandanus leaves that is stuffed with rice to be eaten when out hunting or working in the fields. Because it is so time consuming to weave, it is also known as “love’s lunch box.”
Sera explains that the concept behind his Mu Ming Restaurant is to show how Amis mothers cooked and how the Amis used to eat every day. For instance, when stewing pig’s knuckle, he uses shellflower (Alpinia) root instead of ginger, a technique learned from his grandmother. On the other hand, it was his grandfather who taught him to stuff fish bellies with lemongrass before grilling. It gives the fish a subtle lemony fragrance.
By making the most of wild vegetables, he challenges customers’ preconceptions about ingredients and broadens their horizons. For instance, he uses shellflower oil, ailanthus prickly ash (Zanthoxylum ailanthoides), aromatic litsea (Litsea cubeba), and Taiwan cinnamon berries (Cinnamomum insularimontanum) to make flavored oils and sauces that he uses for salad dressings and appetizers. Cinnamon is a member of the laurel family and the berries carry a scent hinting of lemon and ginger. Then there’s the Amis version of wasabi: wavy bittercress (Cardamine flexuosa), a wild plant that only grows from November to February or March. It is less pungent than Chinese onion and pairs well with sashimi or salted pork.
As for the flavorful soup made by boiling papaya, pumpkin, taro, and amaranth, Sera, with a sense of humor typical of the Amis, chuckles and says, “It’s so rich because I forgot to turn off the burner.”
Make a point of visiting local food markets when you find yourself in Hualien and Taitung. Offering so many wild herbs, they provide visitors with chances to discover flavors rooted deeply in local cuisine that will surpass one’s wildest imaginings.
Stuffing fish with lemongrass gives it a lemony flavor.
An alivongvong is a pouch woven from pandanus leaves that is stuffed with rice and steamed.
Featuring rich layers of flavor, the Mu Ming Restaurant’s “foraged vegetable soup” is authentic Amis cuisine.