In the wake of the International Lions Club Convention, on September 8, the Taipei World Trade Center will host the Taipei International Textile Show, an exhibition which is highly significant for ROC economic development.
We are the eighth biggest textile exporting country in the world. Each year, our fabric and clothing exports surpass US$7.5 billion. Nonetheless, this is the first time we have organized an international show for the textile industry.
Therefore, in order to attract overseas buyers and reporters, the organizing committee has invited not only merchants from the ROC, England, France, West Germany, Sweden, Italy, Japan, and Hong Kong, but also the internationally famous fashion designer Gunko Koshino from Japan to judge the fashion designing contest.
Most of our export clothing is inexpensive, so that even though export quantities are high, profits are not as great. Moreover, it is becoming difficult to survive with competition from other developing countries. Especially this year, as the value of the NT has increased by 28 percent, which is much higher than the Korean won and Hong Kong dollar, the competition is stiff.
Due to the impact of the appreciated NT, experts suggested that upper-stream, mid-stream, and lower-stream textile manufacturers help each other out through the rough period. However, the timing for this was not ideal because Japan disposed of five million spindles this year creating a worldwide fiber shortage. Textile manufacturers didn't have to worry about overstocked inventories; why would they want to share the advantage with clothing exporters?
Thus, experts came up with another idea—"Improve management, increase production, and quality control." Mr. Y. S. Kang, executive vice-president of Chung Shing Textile Co., points out that clothes still require heavy labor, even with automation and computerized patterns. Also, for a given product, our labor cost is ten times that of mainland China or Bangladesh. How can we compete on price? Kang believes the thing to do now is to design fashion. What if competitors copy our style? Answers Mr. Kang, "Leading fashion is important in the clothing business. Copiers are always one step behind the trend. So if we can establish our own brand and lead, it will be the best strategy."
Designing our own styles and brand names has been suggested for many years. But why have so few companies taken the lead? According to one expert, Chinese management prefers to invest in machinery rather than advertising. Machinery is tangible and produces tangible results, whereas the returns on advertising are more difficult to perceive and measure. Moreover, a one page advertisement in Vogue magazine runs for US$30,000.
Other problems are the expense required to train designers and develop marketing channels.
Despite the difficulties, there are still many ambitious and far-sighted merchants, such as Chung Shing Textiles. They developed a brand called "Green Line" in Los Angeles four years ago which is manufactured in Taiwan and designed by Westerners.
Kang explains, "I think design reflects culture, and the styles designed by easterners might not appeal to Westerners. This is a new line, and using famous Western designers has help to promote it." At first, some of the discount chain stores wanted to purchase this line, but the firm sacrificed this business in order to establish a more high-quality image.
Because of the high living standard in Taiwan, the domestic product is high-quality. Whenever, students return home from overseas, or business men visit they are all surprised by the high quality and prices of clothing in Taiwan.
Many designers in Taiwan are interested in having large companies export for them. For example, take Carson Huang who graduated first in her class at Parsons School of Design. Two years ago, her work was admired by the general manager of Sunrise Department Store. A line designed by her and under her label, but backed by Sunrise has entered the international high-quality clothing market. Many merchants think this unwise because if a designer switches firms after the label becomes well-known, what then? But Carson Huang thinks this is nonsense.
She says, "To get support from a financial group is a designer's dream, Money-making is not the primary motive; having the support to do high-quality work is paramount. Why don't the designers and financial backers work together to elevate the image of Taiwan clothing products?"
Maybe this is the direction that Taiwan's textile industry should be working towards. At this international show in September, fifteen ROC designers will be asked to design ten pieces of clothing each with the theme of the "essence of modern China."
Mr. Lu Fong-chih, another well-known designer in the ROC, points out that the goal is to make Taipei a fashion capital. But, with so many places in the world where you can buy high-quality clothing, we won't succeed unless our product is unique.
Carson Huang adds, "European design follows the lines of the body; Japanese design is a shape itself into which the body is fitted. What will be the essence of our design?"
Says Mr. Lu animatedly, "The essence of Chinese fashion is not just the high collar of the ch'i-p'ao or the combination of red and green. To find this essence will also require the contributions of the intellectual and artistic communities here. China has a long tradition and comprises one fifth of the world's population. Isn't it embarrassing if we don't have our own unique images?"
The textile show in September is starting soon, and perhaps we won't have discovered this essence in time for it, but there is always the next show. At least now, our designers are pondering the problem and the essence is beginning to materialize.
[Picture Caption]
Clothing—can the "Made in Taiwan" image be changed?
The NT dollar appreciates, but textile manufacturers do not share the benefits with clothing manufacturers.
Designer Lu Fong-chih believes Chinese design needs an image representative of the national spirit.
Designer Carson Huang with her label for Sun rise.
To become a fashion capital Taipei must host more international shows like the one coming in September. (photo Chung Yung-ho)
Taiwan's high-quality couture emphasizes the entire ensemble.
Fish, flesh, or fowl before becoming a "thing of repast" stop and listen to the market's incivil clamo.
form thousands of twins Lamps in the temple each one a person's spirit You hold your incense sticks.
form thousands of twins Lamps in the temple each one a person's spirit You hold your incense sticks.
Out in the sun so long hoping to break rank and "get drunk".
Out in the sun so long hoping to break rank and "get drunk".
Concrete building blocks stacked in a pile working together to steal a last ray of sunset.
Concrete building blocks stacked in a pile working together to steal a last ray of sunset.
This five-man work group at Academia Sinica is designing software to "computerize" historical records.
