On the boundless Tibetan Plateau, the untamed wind meets no barrier as it sweeps across the land. Its howl is punctuated only by the occasional herder's call or the ding-dong of a bell hanging from a yak's neck. In the sunlight, the snow-capped peaks of the distant mountains take on a golden tint. The wanderers of these grasslands, man and beast, seem to take on vigor from their bath in the sun. In looking upon such moving scenes, I recalled repeatedly a remark of Giuseppe Tucci, the famous Tibet scholar: "They are a group that stirs my envy for their peacefulness and pithiness. . . When they wander across this vast expanse, it is as if they are suspended between the earth and the sky." [Retranslated from the Chinese.]
The four million and some Tibetans spread out across the Tibetan Plateau have recently had lively roles to play on the international stage. This is largely because recent Tibetan history has been a history of misfortune. Great Britain was the first nation to set its sights on this land. After World War II, the United States had growing influence here. In the 1950s there was widespread unrest, and in 1959 mainland China invaded and established complete control and authority. Whereas the Tibetan Plateau had always been shrouded in hues of mystery, now it was completely sealed off. While its 1000-year-old feudal system of slavery was cast off, this was the first time the Tibetans were put under the complete control of Han Chinese, and this ancient civilization was forced into the 20th century. It is not hard to imagine how much suffering this imposed.
What is life like now for these residents of "the roof of the world?" Do the shepherds still call after their flocks in the pastures between snowy peaks? Do the red-robed lamas still chant their sutras as in years past? Are there still performances of traditional horsemanship, Tibetan opera and sorcery dances? Have large wild animals, such as the yak, the Tibetan wild donkey, and the Tibetan antelope survived? These questions beckoned me to this ancient civilization in the mountains...
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One early morning on the Tibetan Plateau, a ray of sunlight bursts through the layers of clouds onto a Buddhist pagoda.
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Moving from their spring to summer camps, herders lead their yaks across the plateau.
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A woman has gathered fire wood and is carrying it back home. Herders' lives are simple and hard.
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On the plateau you can occasionally see small tractors, mass transit f or farming villages.
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(right) Yaks with red tassels tied to them are the "sacred cows" of the grasslands. Herders free them at temples while praying for peace for the whole family. The freed beasts can live out their remaining days in leisurely contentment.
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The parades honoring King Gesaer and his 36 generals--traditional Tibetan folk heroes--are something akin to the parades in Taiwan honoring Qiye and Baye, generals to the Taoist god Qinghuangye.
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Demonstrations of horsemanship and archery are high points of local life.
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In the northern Tibetan Plateau a herd of wild yaks live at the edge of the desert.
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(left) Called "the ships of the plateau," yaks are one of herders' main means of transport.
Wang Chih-hong, born in 1962, is a graduate of National Chengchih University. When he was photo and art editor of The Earth magazine, he visited over 20 countries around the world. At the end of 1990 he joined the Chinese Antarctic Expedition, which spent two weeks in Antarctica. The following year he organized the exhibit "Destination: South Pole."
