At 4:30 a.m., the sky hasn’t yet begun to brighten. We ride our bicycles to the Fountain of Hope in Taipei’s Dajia Riverside Park, awaiting the first rays of dawn to kick off our bike tour.

“When the sun casts its light across the earth, you’ll say, ‘Whoah, it’s so beautiful!” says Coco Lin, founder of the Formosa Lohas Cycling Association. In a relaxed mood amid the riverside scenery and dawn’s light, it’s hard not to vocalize one’s admiration.

Likewise, “It’s beautiful to watch the sunrise at Kee­lung’s Aodi Fishing Harbor, particularly from the seawall.”

With a firm industrial foundation, Taiwan is a major nation for bicycle manufacturing. It also features dedicated bike lanes and bikeways established by the Ministry of Transportation and Communications (MOTC) in partnership with county and municipal governments. In 2012, Taipei City was the island’s first local government to introduce the YouBike bikeshare system, partly as a means of reducing carbon footprints. This system makes it possible to rent a bike in one locale and return it in another. Many scenic areas also have private operators that rent out bikes, making it convenient for tourists who want to take a spin.

“Currently, Taiwan has a total of 9,354 kilometers of bike paths and lanes, including those built by the two Taipeis as well as various other municipal and county governments,” notes Chen Yen-po, political deputy minister at the MOTC. An extensive islandwide network of trails is gradually coming to completion in step with a riding boom. Cyclists have also uncovered little-known local scenic spots, knowledge that is making cycling routes more colorful and diverse.

Consequently, the MOTC has connected 13 national scenic areas to the basic round-the-island cycling route, which largely mirrors the main railway lines. There are 16 itinerary options, including routes that circle and ascend mountains or access coastal areas, riverbanks, farming areas, and offshore islands. From dawn to dusk, whether navigating through big cities or hopping between small towns, whether in the mountains or by the shore, cyclists are sure to find an option that suits their style of cycling and provides the joy of exploration.

The Wudu Tunnel, built a century ago for a railway, has been converted to use by cyclists. It connects New Taipei’s Xizhi to Keelung.

Classic Taiwan cycling route

But with so many options, which one should you choose? Simon Huang, a cycle tour expert at the KHS Bike School, says that a single-day mini-tour is the most popular choice. Those with a few days can arrange a trip to southern or eastern Taiwan to enjoy mountain and coastal scenery.

Huang recommends a classic route for cycling in Northern Taiwan: the Taipei Riverside Bikeway.

The loop around Sun Moon Lake in Central Taiwan was selected as one of the world’s ten most beautiful bike routes by CNN’s travel website CNNgo. In Southern Taiwan you can explore Hengchun and Kenting on a route that takes in historic old towns along with scenic vistas of blue seas and sky. In Eastern Taiwan the sea cliffs of Hualien and Pingtung offer slow-paced rides and relaxing views. And on the island of Kinmen, cycle routes link historical settlements and wartime relics.

Huang says that cyclists can plan their own bike tour or work with a professional route planner to create a detailed customized route. Or one can take a bimodal approach, mixing bikes and trains. If there are concerns about stamina, then riders can rent increasingly prevalent e-bikes to make the trip less taxing.

The well-planned riverside bike paths in Taipei and New Taipei allow cyclists to take leisurely rides while enjoying beautiful scenery. Riding on them is an altogether pleasant experience.

Taking a slow spin through Kinmen is a great way to enjoy traditional Southern Fujianese architecture.

Around the island on Cycling Route 1

The most convenient way to circumnavigate the island by bike is to follow Taiwan Cycling Route No. 1, regarded as the “national cycling highway.” Its main route extends for 960 kilometers. From its starting point at the Songshan railway station in Taipei, it heads down the western side of the island to Pingtung and then turns up along the east coast. You can board a train to avoid the heavy traffic and frequent rock slides along the section between Hualien and Su’ao. There are many convenient rest stations along Cycling Route 1, which typically takes nine to 14 days to complete.

Cycling Route 1 and its 25 branch routes extend for a total length of over 1,200 kilometers. Cyclists can use the branch routes to take off from the beaten path and explore Sun Moon Lake in Nantou, the Southern Branch of the National Palace Museum in Chiayi, Ken­ting National Park on the Hengchun Peninsula, and various national scenic areas.

Coastal bike paths provide an unrivaled way to enjoy Taiwan’s beautiful seashore.

Ascending to Wuling

Wuling Pass, near the main peak of Mt. Hehuan, features the highest elevation of roadway in all of Taiwan, making it a mecca for serious cyclists.

In recent years the Taiwan Cyclist Federation has been sponsoring the annual KOM (“King of the Mountain”) Challenge, which starts at sea level at Hualien’s Qixingtan Beach and crosses numerous climatic zones on its 105-kilometer course up to the pass at 3,275 meters. The French cycling magazine Le Cycle described the route as one of the ten most difficult and 50 most beautiful in the world.

“Competitive cycling and leisure cycling offer totally different vibes and takeaways,” says Coco Lin, who suggests a more leisurely approach to ascending to Wuling: Start from Hualien County’s Kuanyun Youth Hostel, warming up on the gentle slopes of Provincial Highway 8 for five kilometers before reaching Dayuling and then riding another ten kilometers to Wuling. “Don’t under­estimate the challenge of those ten kilometers: You ascend 710 meters, which is worthy of the Tour de France. You’ll be amazed by the wild scenery and cliffs, and will be singing the praises of Taiwan’s natural beauty!”

Known as one of the world’s ten most difficult rides, the climb to Wuling Pass is a challenge that many serious cyclists hope to conquer at least once in their lives. (courtesy of Formosa Lohas Cycling Association)

A trip through Taroko Gorge has riders gasping in awe at the deep canyon, magnificent cliffs, and gorgeous mountain scenery. (photo by Jimmy Lin)

Circling Sun Moon Lake

Sun Moon Lake in Central Taiwan is regarded as one of the island’s eight great scenic sites. With an intermediate elevation of 748 meters, its views of distinct layers of mountain scenery change with the mists. The Highway Bureau has created a bikeway around the lake. In 2014, it officially became a sister route of the renowned Shimanami Kaido, which island-hops through Japan’s Seto Inland Sea.

The Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area Management Office notes that there is a unique 400-meter-long waterfront bike path connecting Shuishe to the Xiangshan Visitor Center, which offers the impression of cycling on water. Travelers can also recharge at the shopping district by the wharf at the Ita Thao Visitor Center, savoring the delicious dishes of the indigenous Thao people and sipping on famous Sun Moon Lake black tea.

Whether in the mountains or by the shore, in big cities or in small towns, there are many opportunities to experience the thrill of chasing the wind on a bike path.

Deep and secret

“For in-depth travel, start by getting to know the capital city.” Lin has 113 bike route options. He begins by recommending the bikeways on either side of the Keelung River. On the left bank travelers can enjoy the Fountain of Hope, which shoots water to the height of a 25-story building. On the right bank, nature, public art, and architecture merge harmoniously at the Ching-Kuo Chi-Hai Cultural Park, where a bike path can take you away from the city’s hustle and bustle.

Visitors can also start their journey from Taipei’s Dadaocheng, taking in the Dihua Street shopping area, a century-old commercial hub that integrates old and new. From there, they can continue along the riverside bike path to the Guandu Pier and Tamsui’s Fisherman’s Wharf, or even take a ferry to Bali on the left bank of the Tamsui River, as they enjoy the diverse array of recreational opportunities along the river.

If your legs are strong enough, Lin recommends climbing to the Mt. Datun Air Navigation Station Lookout, which at 1,076 meters is the highest spot on any Taipei City bike route. Mt. Datun is an active volcano, and on the ride up from the Guandu MRT station, you can enjoy the volcanic topography and take in distant views of the Guandu Plain. Afterwards, you can ride along the Balaka Highway to the northern coastline and then back around to Fisherman’s Wharf in Tamsui. The route, 70 kilometers in all, offers a good look at the charms of Northern Taiwan.

Exploring the East Rift Valley

Hualien and Taitung in Eastern Taiwan are wonderful places to savor slow-paced travel. The area is deeply loved by domestic and foreign travelers alike. Sheltered by the Central Mountain Range on one side and the Coastal Range on the other, the fields and wilderness of the East Rift Valley offer a look at a pure and simple way of life.

When stopping for supplies, try a boxed lunch with fine local rice nourished by water flowing off pristine mountains. You can also savor traditional delicacies such as grilled tofu skin and bean cakes made the traditional way. In recent years, tribal tourism has been thriving, and cyclists can visit the indigenous villages in the valley, indulging in tribal cuisine along the way.

A ride through the East Rift Valley presents a beautiful melange of mountains, water, fields, and small farming villages.

Challenge yourself on a pump track

If you’re a cyclist who puts a premium on excitement, then have a go at the “pump track” in Neihu’s Rainbow River Park. Finished earlier this year by Taipei City’s Hydraulic Engineering Office, it features a full kilometer of undulating paths that meet requirements for inter­national competitions.

Taiwan has a diverse cycling environment, and this year the MOTC promoted a bicycle commuting plan for Taipei and New Taipei. The goal is to create a comprehensive commuting network that makes the most of the region’s riverside bike paths and their connections into Taipei, Banqiao, Zhonghe, and Yonghe, encouraging office workers to embrace low-carbon lifestyles.

After the Covid pandemic, people have begun to reconsider their previous lifestyles and modes of transport, and many have turned toward nature and areas with lower population densities to savor the charms of a slower pace of life. In this context, bicycles are an ideal choice. Meanwhile, by immersing themselves in the locales through which they travel, touring cyclists can fully experience Taiwan’s friendly people, delicious food and scenic beauty.

The undulating pump track in Taipei’s Rainbow River Park keeps cyclists coming back for more.

Coco Lin (right), director of the Taiwan Mountain Bike Association, Che Che (left), executive director of the Taipei X-Game Association, and experienced riders often volunteer at the pump track to promote “extreme” cycle sports.

The extreme challenges of the pump track push riders to outdo themselves.