Weird snacks of Taiwan
The cuisine of Taiwan has absorbed a multitude of foreign influences, but it has also innovated many of its own xiaochi. Take, for instance, the macabre-sounding "coffin board." It's made by taking thick slices of bread and putting them in a deep fryer until crisp. You then cut off the top and carve out the middle, so that it forms a container. Inside, you place a filling-say a bisque made of chicken liver, peas, potato, shrimp, cuttlefish and so forth. Finally, you put the top back on. It's akin to a modern soup placed in a loaf of French bread.
More than 50 years ago, Xu Liuyi, a snack stall proprietor in Tainan, created this innovative dessert. Because it is shaped like a coffin, it became known as "coffin board."
In 2009 a British travel website included pig's-blood cake as one of the world's "10 weirdest dishes." In September of this year, news spread in Taiwan that the US Department of Agriculture, due to concerns about sanitation, was planning to ban imports of pig's-blood cake from Taiwan. Aficionados of local snacks cried "cultural imperialism." But it turned out just to be a false rumor.
Nevertheless, it is true that many foreigners in Taiwan are disgusted by snacks at night markets made from animal organs and blood, and refuse even to try them. For instance, Aoki Yuka, a Japanese national who made secret visits to night markets as a judge in the recent competition, frequently brings Japanese friends to night markets here, who delight in their maze-like layout and their food and fun. Yet most Japanese, she says, won't dare try chitterlings, chicken's feet or chicken livers.
Pig's-blood cake or rice-and-blood cake are made from glutinous rice and animal blood (pig's, duck's or chicken's). In Chinese medicine, duck meat is regarded as "nourishing yin" and "relieving deficiency syndrome," and in olden times, after slaughtering ducks, people wouldn't want to let the blood go to waste, so they'd collect it in a pan, add rice and steam it. Afterwards, they'd dip it in sauce and eat it. As the method spread, the dish became a common people's snack.
But because it's time-consuming to raise ducks and duck meat is thus expensive, the supply of duck blood couldn't meet demand. Moreover, because chicken's blood doesn't congeal well, gradually pig's blood began to replace duck's blood. That was how pig's-blood cake was born. Now pig's-blood cake is properly steamed before a sweet-and-sour sauce is applied. It's then covered with peanut powder and a sprinkling of cilantro. It's a much-loved night-market snack.
The Compendium of Materia Medica, written in the Ming dynasty, describes pig's blood as "salty, normal tasting, non-toxic," and used for "stimulating the production of blood, and treating stroke and bloating, as well as miasma."
In Taiwan Flavor, food writer Jiao Tong writes that he once researched the history of another night-market favorite, pig's-blood soup. Interestingly, he discovered that Sun Yat-sen, himself a doctor of Western medicine, nevertheless praised pig's-blood soup: "It is especially rich in iron, so that it serves as an excellent nutritional supplement. After illness or pregnancy, people used to take iron, as did people with thin blood. Now they use pig's blood. Not only is it not barbaric for Chinese people to eat pig's blood; it's very scientific and sanitary."