Each year, as Chinese New Year approaches, the mien ao, a coat padded with cotton in traditional Chinese style, is becoming an increasingly common sight on the streets of Taipei and in other cities in Taiwan.

The mien ao has always been popular in central, eastern and northeastern China during the winter season. It was introduced to Taiwan when people from the mainland arrived with the Nationalist government in 1949. As demand has risen on both the local and overseas markets, Taiwan now has many manufacturers and stores engaged in the line. Customers buy the garment both for themselves and as gifts for their friends and relatives.

Consisting simply of two layers of fabric filled with cotton, the mien ao is characterized by light weight combined with great warmth. As Taiwan is located in the subtropical region, it is only necessary to wear a shirt with the mien ao even in the coldest season. Coming in different styles and sizes, the garment has a chi pao neck, floral style buckle, front or transverse opening and slits at the side.

The variety of buckles used on the mien ao adds a touch of individuality and elegance to the garment: As well as in plain, coiled, or gourd patterns, the dress buckles are fashioned in the shape of animals, such as dragons, phoenixes and peacocks, in Chinese characters, including fu (bliss), lu (prosperity) sou (longevity), hsi (happiness), and chi hsiang (good luck); or in the flower patterns of the seasons: plum, orchid, bamboo and chrysanthemum. Materials used in making the buckles are copper, gold and other metals, plus pearl and cloth.

The ju yi, a kind of scepter held in former times to ward off evil, is the most popular design on the cloth, since it is considered a sign of good luck. Today, the ju yi is also used in hemming the edge of the mien ao or in the pattern of the buckle, and has in fact become a particular mark of the garment. Hemming the edge is a challenge even for the most skilled tailors. As the mien ao is filled with cotton, it cannot be sewn by machine. The hand-stitched hems have over the years become an important part of the design.

Well-known local costume designer, Yang Chen-kuei, who has been invited to teach Chinese costume designing in Japan, and is currently making a mien ao for the wife of prince Takamatsu No Miya, explained that the ju yi pattern printed on the inside lining is indicative of the fact that the Chinese are a humble race placing great emphasis on spiritual perfection. Yang also said that since sewing machines would destroy the softness and style of the garments, it is better to stick to traditional manufacturing methods. Each spring in former times, women workers would remove the cotton lining, and after drying and loosening it, would replace it in the outer fabric which had been reversed. In this way, the mien ao was as good as new again.

In today's scientific and commercial society, however, few women have time to learn the traditional methods, and manufacturers have been forced to turn increasingly to machines in order to meet demand and keep costs at a reasonable level. In another concession to the times, synthetic materials are replacing cotton for the stuffing because they are lighter and can be sewn more easily. For luxury items, silk is used for the padding, while materials for the outer layer range through silk, silk brocade, satin, nylon or cotton.

To preserve the traditional methods and improve the standards of Chinese costume tailoring, the government each year holds a technique competition. As a result, refined handicraft is receiving more attention, and supplementary classes on Chinese garment making have been started in Taipei.

The garment export industry has played a big role in the rapid economic development of the Republic of China. Because of the slow manufacturing process and limited overseas demand, the mien ao has made only a small contribution to this trade. Recently, however, prospects have been improved by the rising popularity of the garment in such markets as Japan, the United States, Korea and Europe, and the introduction of more modern manufacturing techniques. As a result, it is hoped that the mien ao, as a representative of Chinese culture, will become a universal garment.

[Picture Caption]

Warm and elegant full-length chi pao-style mein ao is one of the favorite winter garments for young women (1). The radiant mien ao has given touch of warmth and color to the streets of Taipei (2). A great variety of mien ao is sold in clothing shops (3 & 4).

1. The hand-stitched hems have become an important part of the design of the mien ao particularly those padded with silk. 2. The mien ao is sold in department stores in European countries and the United States, at a fairly high price. Foreign tourists often buy a mien ao to take back as gifts for friends and relatives. 3, The variety of buckles used on the mien ao adds a touch of individuality and elegance to the garment. The buckles are fashioned in the shape of animals, Chinese characters, or in flower patterns.

1, Hemming the edge is a challenge even for the most skilled tailors. As the mien ao is filled with cotton, it cannot be sewn by machine. 2, Materials for the outer layer range through silk, silk brocade, satin, nylon and cotton. 3, During the mass production, machines can be used in tailoring the outer layer or inner lining.

Warm and elegant full-length chi pao-style mein ao is one of the favorite winter garments for young women （1）.

The radiant mien ao has given touch of warmth and color to the streets of Taipei （2）.

A great variety of mien ao is sold in clothing shops （3 & 4）.

A great variety of mien ao is sold in clothing shops （3 & 4）.

The hand-stitched hems have become an important part of the design of the mien ao particularly those padded with silk.

The mien ao is sold in department stores in European countries and the United States, at a fairly high price. Foreign tourists often buy a mien ao to take back as gifts for friends and relatives.

The variety of buckles used on the mien ao adds a touch of individuality and elegance to the garment. The buckles are fashioned in the shape of animals, Chinese characters, or in flower patterns.

Hemming the edge is a challenge even for the most skilled tailors. As the mien ao is filled with cotton, it cannot be sewn by machine.

Materials for the outer layer range through silk, silk brocade, satin, nylon and cotton.

During the mass production, machines can be used in tailoring the outer layer or inner lining.

Silver-haired Lu Chuan-sheng, head of the Jung Hsin Choir, has dedicated 20 years of his life to musical education. Right: As the sun sets over the Tamsui River, the children start to arrive for rehearsals. As usual, Lu is waiting for them upstairs.