The changing fortunes of Chen’s former residence
Seven decades later, Chen Cheng-po’s former residence at 249 Lanjing Street has become an ice shop named “We Taiwanese Folk’s Ice Dessert.” At this ice shop, one can see how bustling excitement and serenity co-exist.
Serenity, because the ice shop doesn’t open until past noon, and in those hours before it opens for business, one can almost imagine how it was back in the days when Chen was in residence, quietly working at his art. Xu Yongsen remembers that when he was young, he could see how the first floor was filled with Chen’s paintings. He’d always wanted to go in and take a closer look, but never had the chance.
The other aspect, that of bustling excitement, is because the ice shop sells flavored ices in summer and hot grass jelly and rice dumpling soup in winter. Hence the shop is very popular and often has a line out the door.
Xu Yongsen says that he rents the storefront from Chen Cheng-po’s family. Chen’s family moved away after the February 28th Incident. In 1983, they started renting the place to Xu’s family, who were in the business of making candied yams. The next generation changed to selling flavored ice instead, and has been doing so for the last 20-odd years. Often, customers will see the sign saying that the place is Chen Cheng-po’s former residence and they will ask about what sort of person the artist used to be.
After finishing our ice and taking leave of Chen’s residence, walking along the busy street we can see one of his easels displayed beside a nearby temple courtyard. Temple of Wenling Sea Goddess (Matsu) was painted in 1927. Although he is long gone, one can still almost see the artist’s solitary figure walking through the bustling marketplace with a smile on his lips and his easel on his back, continuing on his journey to paint throughout Taiwan.