Seeing history through temples
In the eyes of many Taiwanese, Chiayi is a rural backwater, but for Reed Giovannetti it is an ancient city full of history. There are many historical temples in the area. Every year, the oldest pilgrimage group in Taiwan, from Changhua’s Nanyao Temple, travels to Tianhou Temple in Chiayi’s Xingang Township to change Mazu’s phoenix robe.
Giovannetti, who speaks fluent Mandarin, has never taken a formal Chinese class, instead practicing by visiting major temples in Chiayi and chatting with devotees. Many people wonder why he studies religion, and he always smiles and responds that he actually studies people, and that through religion you can get to know the local history. Also, the best local food always shows up near temples.
Following Giovannetti around the temples in Chiayi City, he leads us through the western downtown area to the Guanxiangjing Temple, a temple to the God of Wealth with a history of more than 200 years, which was bombed during World War II and later restored. Nestled away in an alleyway, it exudes a peaceful atmosphere.
Then we follow Chiayi’s busiest road, Zhongzheng Road, to the City God Temple, a national historic site located in the eastern downtown area which is over 300 years old. The City God walks the line between the natural and supernatural worlds, impartial, serving as the local guardian figure. Once inside the temple, Giovannetti points to the soaring caisson ceiling, remarking, “That was made without any nails, entirely with wood joints. Absolutely beautiful.”
Our last visit is to the nearby Shuangzhong Temple. Although small in scale, it is the oldest temple in Chiayi, founded about 350 years ago and dedicated to two great generals of the Tang Dynasty. “Look at that ceiling and the tiger pattern; it’s very special.” Giovannetti always observes the temple architecture carefully. Patting the terrazzo pillars at the entrance, with lucky dragons wrapping around them, he says, “I was moved to see this. My great-grandfather was from Italy, where terrazzo originally comes from.”
Reed Giovannetti is currently international consultant for the famous Chiayi snack-food brand Smart Fish and for several local restaurants. He is passionate about religious and cultural studies and is well acquainted with the history of Chiayi’s temples.