To prevent their houses from being permeated with water, most residents apply tar to the roofs and outer walls of their homes, giving many areas of Keelung city a grayish black appearance. Add to this a dark, cloudy sky and one might understandably feel gloomy. But such an atmosphere is quickly heightened by the friendly, familiar exhortation, "Don't forget your umbrella!".

The city itself is surrounded by mountains on three sides and sea on the other. Traffic by land and sea is equally convenient. Highways and railroads run throughout Keelung township, and the bay extends into the city area separating it into two parts. Keelung borders the subtropic zone, but because of its location near the ocean the weather is moderate.

Keelung township has six small islands. One of them is P'engchiayu, which marks the northernmost point of Taiwan. The island is also the location of Taiwan's tallest lighthouse. P'engchiayu's only resident is the solitary lighthouse watchman.

Keelung has a long history of foreign occupation. In 1626 the Spanish occupied one of its islands and built on it a castle and ramparts. In 1640 the Spanish were driven out by the Dutch, who occupied the island for the next 19 years. The island was returned to the Chinese during the Ming dynasty when Cheng Ching Kung ordered the Dutch expelled.

In 1840 during the Opium War between China and England, English ships bombarded Keelung's Sansha Bay, but retreated after an attack by the Chinese defense. Taiwan was blockaded by the French in 1884 at the start of the SinoFrench War, and Keelung became a major battlefield. With the ensuing negotiations. French troops retreated.

After the Sino-Japanese War of 1894, China and Japan signed the Treaty of Shimoneski, under which Taiwan was ceded to Japan. Under Japanese rule, Taiwan was divided into three counties, with Keelung a part of Taipei County. Because of its large population and prosperous economy, Keelung set up a civic administration in 1924.

With the signing of the Potsdam Declaration in 1944 Taiwan was returned to China, and Keelung became a city under the direct jurisdiction of Taiwan province. A mayor was elected, and a city government was finally established.

Keelung is significant for its large harbor and numerous fishing wharfs. The harbor facilities were first built during the Japanese occupation. After the Retrocession, building was expanded to its present state. In 1984 Keelung Harbor's cargo loading and unloading capacity reached 50,000,000 tons, a 41% increase since 1983. The harbor's container loading and unloading capacity is l,140,000 tons. Keelung's containership terminal is the fourth largest in the world.

The harbor's only setback is that it is too shallow for larger vessels. Plans are now being made to build new port facilities further out where waters are deeper.

Keelung has six fishing wharfs. Each year the Keelung fishing industry's total intake reaches three billion NTD. The largest of Keelung's fishing wharfs is Patoutzu, which has facilities for coastal, inshore and deep-sea fishing vessels.

As Taiwan's economy flourishes, the fishermen of Keelung have enjoyed the benefits of prosperity. Most own their own boats and homes.

While fishermen off the northern coast are continually threatened by winds and stormy weather, they take comfort in the worship of various deities. The most popular of these is Matsu, goddess of seafarers. Keelung has six large Matsu temples located near the harbor and fishing villages. According to the agricultural calendar, every March 23 marks Matsu's birthday, when the temples fill with worshipers.

Keelung's fishing industry has greatly benefited from the Taiwan Fisheries Research Institute (TRFI), an organization under the supervision of the Department of Agriculture and Forestry. With one branch located in Keelung, TFRI is involved in research in fisheries technology, fisheries resources exploration, fish processing and fish populations.

Among TFRI's accomplishments are its expeditions to Antarctica for research in fishing industry techniques and the development of fishing resources. In two separate journeys, (December of 1976 and 1977) the Haikung research vessel went to Antarctica to develop shrimp resources. There researchers discovered large schools of shrimp, and paved the way for the development of Taiwan's deep-sea fishing industry. As a result, Taiwan now has the world's third largest seafood intake from antarctic waters second only to Russia and Japan.

TFRI has also done experiments in processed seafoods. Fish cakes are the most highly consumed processed seafood on Taiwan. In recent years, as more and more fishing vessels are equipped with freezers, most fish are frozen whole for consumption. TFRI is researching the possibilities of processing frozen fish and red-meat fish, as well as fish from New Zealand's southeast seaboard.

In addition to advancing its technology, Keelung's fishing industry is also expanding in size. Because of the growing number of fishing vessels, and their need to come into harbor all at once during a typhoon, the Patoutzu wharf is now undergoing expansion. Future facilities will include water and gas stations, ice and freezing factories, ship repair facilities and a fish market, all of which will provide efficiency and convenience to Keelung's fishing industry .

Keelung's topography is characterized by mountains. Level land occupies only 5% of its total area. This has created transportation and housing problems for the township.

Keelung's narrow roads were built at a very early date. While many are in need of expansion, this is prevented by the houses which line both sides. As Keelung's standard of living increases, so does the number of people who can afford to purchase cars, resulting in growing traffic and parking problems. In addition, constant rains and pressure from heavy traffic have taken their toll on the condition of the roads. The heavy trucks and container transporters that take fish from the harbor to outlying areas further aggravate road problems.

Chang Ch'un-hsi, the Keelung City mayor has planned a three-phase solution to the city's transportation problems. The plans include the construction of overpasses and a rapid transit system, and the dispersement of residents living in the densely populated city area into outlying areas.

Keelung's scarcity of level land has also brought on housing problems. Many houses are built up on hillside slopes. As their early construction was not based upon a pre-determined general plan, these residences tend to be disorderly and unattractive.

To cope with this problem and improve the quality of housing in Keelung, in 1955 the city government established a large-scale housing program. The government sponsored numerous public housing construction projects, and offered loans to encourage residents to invest in private building as well. The public housing program was designed to promote better land use, improve the appearance of the cityscape, and give residents a peaceful, comfortable residential area from which to activate the development of industry and economic prosperity. Two current projects launched in 1984, Mingte Community and Poai Community, will provide models for future projects.

One of Keelung's largest and most thriving public housing projects is the Anlo Public Housing Community. Construction of the community was carried out in three phases beginning in 1977. The community accommodates 3,448 housing units, located in five and seven-story buildings. Public facilities include a telecommunications office, post office, police station, gas station, market, and school facilities from nursery school through junior high school. Private enterprises have also built restaurants and a theatre in the area. Anlo is now in the process of constructing a children's amusement park, athletic field, and community park which will provide recreational facilities for its occupants.

To tourists, Keelung is most famous for its scenic spots, and seasonal activities. Being both mountainous and adjacent to the sea, Keelung's scenery is particularly lovely. Its craggy coastline is filled with unusual rock formations such as the "Beancurd Rock" at Hop'ingtao Park. Further south one finds lush green hills dotted with brilliantly colored temples, the most famous of which include the Ling Ch'uan temple on Yueh Mei Mountain, and the Tsu Yun and Ta Chueh Temples in the Anlo district.

At Erhsha Bay is located the remains of an ancient fort. In 1840 at the start of the Opium War Yang Yao, then governor of Taiwan Province, set up a fort with eight cannons on the mountain facing Erhsha Bay. It was destroyed in 1884 when the French usurped Keelung. In 1979 the city restored the fort and opened it to the public.

One of Keelung's most festive activities is Ghost Day, which falls on July 15 of the lunar calendar. During the entire month of July tribute is paid to the spirits of those passed away through worship, the burning of paper money and offerings of food laid out on tables on the streets. On Ghost Day parades, firecrackers and worshiping ceremonies are held to raise the soul from suffering and help it into the next world.

One activity that is particularly worthy of braving the elements to enjoy is the "Temple Entrance" food market, or "Snack Street". Here countless restaurants and street stalls entice the customer with a variety of snacks, many of which are made with fresh seafood. The stalls gather near Chien Chi Kung, Keelung's largest temple, for reasons of tradition. Early fishermen often went to the temple to pray for safe voyages, and the temple area developed naturally as a center of other activities as well.

The narrow streets on either side of the temple are crowded with over 100 food shops which offer 300-400 different dishes. Every evening at 6:00 o'clock the streets are closed to traffic, and gourmets from every part of the island fill their narrow passages. Fresh seafood is arranged in front of Temple Entrance restaurants, where the customers can select their own seafood and have it prepared to their taste. Others may prefer to buy spring rolls, rice cakes, curry or noodle dishes, tempura, or oyster omelets at the smaller stands, and top them off with a dessert of traditional sweets or luscious pre-cut fruits.

Keelung, whether by means of bright new public construction or traditional local color, has managed to overcome the original drab appearance caused by its rainy weather. Houses are being newly painted in brilliant colors, and colorful public bridge-covers decorate city street. In a recent "Get to Know Keelung" painting competition sponsored by the Department of Education, students portrayed the city not in grays and blacks, but in lively. vivid color. These changes in hue symbolize the new attitudes which are inspiring a bright future for Keelung.

(Jill Ardourel)

[Picture Caption]

1. The opening of Keelung Harbor brought with it the development of Keelung City. 2. An aerial view of the city of Keelung.

1. A Keelung woman burns incense and prays that family members return safely from sea with an ample catch. 2. The goddess Matzu, protectress of seafarers, provides spiritual support for Keelung's fishermen. 3. An abstract view while emerging from the Taye Tunnel.

1. During the wintertime when wind and waves make fishing impossible, fishermen take the opportunity to repair their ships. 2. A busy scene of loading and unloading goods at the fish market.

1. Keelung is well-known for its rainy weather, and the city's residents are always prepared with rain gear. 2. The "Temple Entrance" night market is known far and wide.

1. Public housing currently under construction is painted in pleasing shades of color to attract buyers. 2. Rock formations worn by the waves along the coast of Hop'ing Island attract crowds of tourists. 3. A school built along the side of a hill illustrates the mountainous nature of Keelung's terrain.

Elementary students paint their own impression of Keelung from the Harbor.

2. An aerial view of the city of Keelung.

1. A Keelung woman burns incense and prays that family members return safely from sea with an ample catch.

2. The goddess Matzu, protectress of seafarers, provides spiritual support for Keelung's fishermen.

3. An abstract view while emerging from the Taye Tunnel.

1. During the wintertime when wind and waves make fishing impossible, fishermen take the opportunity to repair their ships.

2. A busy scene of loading and unloading goods at the fish market.

1. Keelung is well-known for its rainy weather, and the city's residents are always prepared with rain gear.

2. The "Temple Entrance" night market is known far and wide.

1. Public housing currently under construction is painted in pleasing shades of color to attract buyers.

2. Rock formations worn by the waves along the coast of Hop'ing Island attract crowds of tourists.

3. A school built along the side of a hill illustrates the mountainous nature of Keelung's terrain.

Elementary students paint their own impression of Keelung from the Harbor.