Tea not only holds a special place in Chinese gastronomy, it also represents a nexus in Chinese culture, where the everyday routine of life intersects with the refinements of culture.

The appreciation of tea is manifold--its beneficial effects on the body, the subtle pleasure experienced, and the state of relaxation one feels after drinking it. Furthermore, it continues to be served to guests and friends alike as a token of hospitality and graciousness.

In order to understand the cultural ramifications of tea drinking in Chinese society, it would be easy to concentrate on the varieties of tea--such as oolong, jasmine, longching--and underestimate the role that teaware--teapot, teacups, bowls--plays. Even using the finest tea leaves will be of no avail if the proper use of teaware is overlooked.

Moreover, the classical teapot whose meticulous, refined craftsmanship has and continues to be displayed in myriad shapes and designs has been held in high esteem by even the most discriminating of Chinese art and antique collectors.

Teapots and teacups are, of course, the most important teaware and are made either of clay or porcelain. Teapots made of clay make the best teapots, as clay ones contain tiny air holes that "breathe," i.e., allow the walls of the teapot to absorb the flavor and fragrance of the tea brewed. Also, the longer the tea is steeped in the teapot, the smaller these tiny holes become, which causes the teapot itself to become both more resilient and finer in texture with daily or constant use.

A teapot with dimensions between 80 and 200 cubic centimeters is considered optimal for tea tasting purposes, as the tea aroma is less likely to be unduly diffused in a small teapot. On the other hand, teacups made of monochrome porcelain are ideal, because one can clearly see the color and composition of the tea brewed. Also, as porcelain cups are glazed, there are no tiny holes, and hence the tea fragrance will not escape.

Clay teapots in the Yihsing style are generally acknowledged to be the best. Yihsing is the name of a town in Kiangsu province, famed for growing fine quality tea as well. Yihsing teapots are grouped according to shape into four varieties: geometric, naturalistic, ribbed, and miniature.

According to historical records, the history of Yihsing teapots can be traced back to the Cheng Teh period of the Ming dynasty. During this time in Yihsing, there was a Jin Sha ("Golden Sand") temple where a monk made exquisite teapots. A scholar, Wu Yi-shan, happened to lodge in the temple, and his valet, Kong Chun, would stealthily watch the monk make his fine teapots. With that secret knowledge, he copied them later.

In the late 19th century and early 20th century, in order to appeal to a vastly enlarged market demand, Yihsing teapots began to enter a mass-produced, commercial phase. However they continued to win prizes in international exhibitions.

TV Scan magazine editor Lai Fu- lai tells how once while strolling down a street he spied a miniature teapot in a shop window that completely captivated him. Although at the time he thought it much too expensive to buy, he couldn't keep it out of his mind and the next day went back and bought it.

At the beginning, being no tea connoisseur, he simply used it as a beverage to quench his thirst. But he discovered in time that tea brewed from teapots which had been well treated by their owners was much purer and mellower than others. Out of curiosity, he proceeded to experiment himself. He was surprised to find that in only a month's time, he was able to learn the secrets of preparing tea.

Mr. Lai believes that "only after having constant, direct contact with one's teaware can one develop the ability to discern between the finer and the mediocre grades of tea."

Chan Hsun-hua, a teahouse owner who started to study porcelain and pottery when he was a child, stresses that the practical nature of teapots is paramount when judging a teapot. Even though a teapot may indeed have high artistic value, it must not be regarded simply as a curio to be placed inside a glass cabinet or else it loses its primary aspect.

How, then, does one go about selecting a suitable teapot? In general, one should look at the quality of the material used, the craftsmanship involved, and its degree of functionality.

The clay used is a decisive factor in assessing the quality of a teapot. Teapots made of high-quality clay will be better able to maintain constant temperature inside. Also, their color and luster will be better, and they will not have an unpleasant, earthy odor.

Holding the teapot in one's hands, one should simultaneously turn the lid and tap the teapot, listening for the sound produced. A clear, resonant sound indicates good quality; on the other hand, if the sound is dull and muffled, it is of inferior quality.

One must also look for obvious physical defects, for instance, at the mouth of the teapot, the inner rim of the lid, the place where the knob of the lid connects to the lid, and so on. Any spots or marks should be carefully checked for as well.

In addition, one should be able to, with ease, pick up the teapot by the handle and carry it. Water poured seven inches from the spout should not dribble or spatter; instead, it should flow in an even stream. Poured into a teacup, it should make no sound.

The lid of the teapot should fit snugly on top of the teapot--there should be no crevices. At the same time, it must turn smoothly in the top groove of the teapot. The funnel-shaped hole in the lid should be of moderate size.

In preparing tea, the first step is to warm the teapot and teacups using boiling water. Tea leaves are next placed in the teapot, and then the pot of boiling water should be raised high and the water poured out gently into the teapot. After bubbles have appeared, the rinse tea (not the leaves!) should be discarded immediately into a bowl.

The second step involves steeping the tea for 45 seconds and then filling in several "rounds" the small teacups, being especially careful not to fill the teacups to the top the first round in order that all teacups have the same consistent quality and color.

Patience and consideration are needed in the care of teapots. After use, the teapot must be allowed to ventilate and be dried immediately. Otherwise, the remaining tea will become rank and cause damage to the teapot. Boiling water must be poured into the teapot and poured out again. While the teapot is still warm, it must then be wiped with a dry cloth to remove stains as well as tea dregs. In this process, the teapot will naturally increase in luster.

Today in Taiwan the business of tea drinking is flourishing and the number of buyers of teapots has increased dramatically. Riding on this current is Tsai Ching-tsun, who is creating teapots of unusual design. Owing to his special interest in and enjoyment of tea, as well as his own art school background, he has viewed many different teapot styles. But he has not been content with the mere imitation of classical Yihsing teapots or those teapot designs which simply reflect a static response to the consumer market.

Tsai's skill and wisdom have given each teapot he has designed its own individual flavor. One of these nicknamed "Sound of Peace," is in the shape of a gourd with flowing lines and a graceful, feminine roundness. One can easily intuit the intimacy of feeling that characterizes the relationship of the teapot designed and its creator.

Though the importance of technical finesse and the kind of clay used in producing quality teapots can hardly be denied, at the same time it is still difficult to overestimate the part played by the person who with the original artistic conception brings it into tangible being. Much depends on that person's educational background and training, as well as breadth of experience.

Thus the history of the famed Yihsing teaware, as has been discussed earlier, reveals the complex and interwoven relationship between the artisan and the scholar in the endeavor to design and produce quality teapots. Today, we are confronted with the challenge of bringing together our knowledge of that tradition and our technological progress to bring into being teapots of originality and refinement equal to those exemplified by Yihsing.

[Picture Caption]

1. An imitation of a "Monk's Cap with Lotus Crown" teapot by famed Ming Dynasty craftsman Shih Da-bin. His teapot creations were held up as models for later generations of artisans. 2. Teapot with strainer. 3. A teapot with three legs, just one of the many endless varieties of teapots.

1. Lotus Teapot with cow-shaped lid, imitation. 2. Teapot, imitation of Gong-chun (16th century), tree-bark body. 3. Double-sided teapot, imitation, with two spouts, lion's head knob, and top handle. 4. The teapots designed by Dai Ching-tsai are rich in originality and attest to his long research into the design of teapots.

1. Teapots with a bamboo theme. Some imitate the shape of sections of bamboo, while others have engraved bamboo designs. 2. The two common materials used to make teapots are clay and porcelain. 3. Tea-drinking has become a favorite pastime of both Chinese and Westerners. 4. Small teapots with the same design but made of different materials have different characters. From left to right, teapots made of white clay, red clay, and purple sand.

1. Frequent use and proper care of a teapot contribute to a teapot's glassy, refined appearance. 2. A small tea set is both inexpensive and practical--hence, its widespread popularity today. 3. "Shou La Pei," the process of teapot making by hand. 4. Tea houses have sprung up everywhere in Taiwan as places to relax with friends, sip tea, and chat.

A teapot with three legs, just one of the many endless varieties of teapots.

Lotus Teapot with cow-shaped lid, imitation.

Teapot, imitation of Gong-chun （16th century）, tree-bark body.

Double-sided teapot, imitation, with two spouts, lion's head knob, and top handle.

The teapots designed by Dai Ching-tsai are rich in originality and attest to his long research into the design of teapots.

Teapots with a bamboo theme. Some imitate the shape of sections of bamboo, while others have engraved bamboo designs.

The two common materials used to make teapots are clay and porcelain.

Tea-drinking has become a favorite pastime of both Chinese and Westerners.

Small teapots with the same design but made of different materials have different characters. From left to right, teapots made of white clay, red clay, and purple sand.

Frequent use and proper care of a teapot contribute to a teapot's glassy, refined appearance.

A small tea set is both inexpensive and practical--hence, its widespread popularity today.

Shou La Pei," the process of teapot making by hand.

Tea houses have sprung up everywhere in Taiwan as places to relax with friends, sip tea, and chat.