Climbing the pillars
Finally, the day of the qianggu has arrived. At dawn, fireworks erupt from the township's various temples. The poles have been affixed with cured meats, rice noodles, shrimp, crabs, squid, zongzi (sticky rice dumplings wrapped in leaves), and other sacrificial offerings. With the aid of a crane, the poles are set up on the main platform as spirited beiguan music plays. Over 100 people lend a hand as the poles are carried to the qianggu site on the edge of Wushih Harbor.
The qianggu poles, the only tall objects in this open space, tower over all else. This year's platform and poles, higher than in previous years, rise to a height of 42 meters, about the height of a 14-story building. Every security precaution has been made, from enlarging the safety net, to providing an extra security rope to prevent competitors from falling and injuring themselves during the climb up the platform and the poles.
The evening of the qianggu brings a slight break in the rain. Young and old from all over Ilan County have arrived. The crowds are thick, and children play delightedly. Meanwhile, an animated Taiwanese Opera performance is taking place on stage. This is a scene of joy for humans and ghosts alike.
At nine o'clock sharp, Lu Kuo-hua, Ilan County chief executive, Chen Hsiu-nuan, mayor of Toucheng Township, Huang Chen-tsan, chairman of the organizing committee, and others arrive on the scene and ascend the qianggu platform via a fire engine ladder. Five animal sacrifices are offered to make one last attempt to summon faraway ghosts. The rite involves taking the head of the sacrificial animal and turning it from the direction facing the main altar to the direction facing away from it. The ghosts will then realize that there is lots of food for everyone, heaped up on 100-plus tables. There is no need for them to jostle for their portion of the feast.
At ten o'clock, as everyone waits expectantly, a competition involving the climbing of the platform serves as a warm-up to the qianggu itself.
The fanpeng platform is smaller and, unlike the poles its pillars are not greased. It rises to a height of about ten stories. Ten competitors are signed up to climb it. Surprisingly, the winner, Huang Ching-lung, takes just 30 seconds to climb up to the platform, setting a new record in the process. The other competitors eventually make it as well. They are competing for the mochi that they then throw down to the crowds in the darkness below. The crowds are stirred to collect up these foodstuffs and "consume blessings," and excitement builds for the qianggu to come. Traditionally, riceballs were placed atop the platform, but hygienic concerns have led to their being replaced with the sticky, aromatic mochi.
At 11:15 p.m., with the arrival of the zi period (11 p.m.-1 a.m.), three strikes of a gong mark the beginning of the qianggu, the most exciting part of the entire festival. Twelve teams from all over Taiwan compete, climbing continuously up the poles, which are heavily greased with tallow. The wet weather makes the climb even more difficult, given that the poles have been smeared with 120 gallons of tallow, and each one is covered with spirit money and soaked in rain.
Moreover, this year's ropes are shorter and stiffer than those given out at last year's competition. None of the teams makes it up during the first round. One team even withdraws out of exhaustion. A climber falls off a pole onto the safety net, but fortunately is uninjured.
The climbers support themselves by attaching their ropes to the central pillar. Team members stand on each other's shoulders as they ascend. Fifty minutes after the start of the competition, every team has made numerous attempts but slipped off each time. Those in the crowd brave the rain and crane their necks to peer upward, crying out in excitement or disappointment.
Minute by minute, the end of the zi period approaches. When it ends, the ghostly gate will be closed. The organizers hold a quick meeting to discuss how to avoid a failed qianggu, an outcome that risks bringing down misfortune upon the community. They decide to lengthen the ropes and allow five climbers, instead of the originally allowed two, to help each other make the relayed climb up to the platform.
Half an hour later, the team from the Wanggong Temple of Erhcheng in Ilan County successfully climbs up the central pillar. They flip onto the platform and climb up their pole, which is attached full with sacrificial offerings, and are the first to successfully cut down the "favorable winds" flag at its top. Aside from symbolizing the ghosts' successful bid for food and salvation, the team wins some wonderful prizes: an automobile, a motor scooter, three taels of gold, and NT$100,000 in prize money.
By the end of the competition, eight of the 12 competing teams have successfully climbed their poles and claimed their prizes.
Taking on all the work themselves, the people of Toucheng work together to gather the materials for and construct the 13 guzhan poles.