Watery Yilan
Standing next to the mountain exhibit, one can look down over the maritime and lowlands exhibits that await immediately below.
According to the Central Weather Bureau, rain falls over 200 days per year in Yi-lan. Water is a predominant facet of life in Yi-lan. The lowlands exhibit focuses on how rivers and streams have influenced the society and economy of the Lan-yang Plain, and how the people of Yi-lan have used their wits to work out a modus vivendi with their watery world.
You may have noticed before that there are no manmade reservoirs or other water collecting structures in Yi-lan, yet there is no lack of water to meet local needs. Besides the rainfall, this abundance is also due to the fact that the alluvial deposits making up the Lan-yang Plain consist primarily of wonderfully porous aggregate. Rain soaks easily into the land to form part of a big underground water system. Reservoirs aren't necessary, because the area sits atop a natural aquifer. Wherever the aquifer is subject to pressure or runs into hard bedrock, it burbles to the surface in springs that the locals describe as "hairy crabs spitting foam."
The local economy in years past grew along pathways determined by the course of river transport. In the 1920s, the area of Yi-lan City around West Gate Ford was a thriving commercial district. But water, as the old Chinese saying goes, "can either float a boat or sink it." Changes in the course of the Lan-yang River are clearly shown in overlapping acrylic maps that forcefully bring home the point of how nothing stays the same. Since the Qing Dynasty, every time the river has burst its banks and cut a new channel, farm fields have been obliterated, homes swept away, and lives cut short. Newspapers from the 1960s and 70s, for example, vividly depict the love-hate relationship between the people of Yi-lan and its rivers. We are especially receptive to the message today, just after Typhoon Megi brought record rainfall to Yilan.
"Hey...," a visitor exclaims, "why would they put a threshing machine on a skiff?" Outsiders, even from the older generation, are not necessarily aware that rice threshing was often done on boats here.
In the old days, when flooding hit, farmers would rush into their water-logged rice paddies to harvest what they could before the crop was ruined. Farmers waded through the paddies, grabbing up the sheaves and handing them to someone on a shallow-bottomed skiff, who then ran the sheaves through the thresher. This scene was repeated in Xiapu- and other low-lying areas in Yi-lan every time a big rainstorm hit or a typhoon pushed seawater inland. The people in Xiapu-, in fact, were very adept at planting rice seedlings while wading along on stilts so they wouldn't have to fight their way through the thick mud.
Throughout Yi-lan, one can see the sky and mountains reflected off ponds and rice paddies. "Duck-and-rice agriculture" is the term used to describe a time-tested farming technique commonly practiced in watery environments like this. Flocks of ducks mill about in rice paddies, gobbling up insects and fertilizing the crops with their droppings. It is a typical scene in Yilan.
The "Light of Yilan" display-composed of 2,000 acrylic blocks-forms a contour map of the county. A local specialty or point of touristic interest is depicted in each of the blocks.