Early spring sees Taiwan live up to its reputation as the “beautiful island,” and is the perfect season for cycling. And of the many possible destinations, Sun Moon Lake has become a favorite with cyclists from around the world.

Covering 5.4 square kilometers, Sun Moon Lake is the largest lake in Taiwan. The road around it, a popular tourist route, runs 29 km, and as cycle tourism has become increasingly popular, so has the number of bicycles on that road. However, despite their growing numbers, these cyclists still have to share the road with cars, buses and coaches—hardly the safest of situations.

In 2010, major bicycle maker Merida held a cycling race at Sun Moon Lake, attracting some 1000 entrants. The cycling route around the lake has since become a popular attraction for travelers.

In order to facilitate more relaxed access to the lakeside, in 2002 the Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area Administration began construction of a walking trail; later, with the rise of cycle tourism, a cycling path was added to the plan. However, the narrowness of the existing road and the paucity of available lakeside land made construction difficult, so the administration chose to build the trail in stages.

Thus far, the Bei­dan, Xiang­shan, and Yue­tan sections have been completed, accounting for a total of 8 km of cycling and a total cost of NT$140 million.

Impressively, every completed stage of the path so far ­follows the lakeside and is constructed according to the topography of the region. For example, the Bei­dan stretch, completed in 2010, includes an elevated section 400 meters in length that actually runs over part of the lake itself, an engineering feat of no small magnitude.

Shi Yu­chun, who heads up construction projects for the administration, explains that this section had to be built raised on 15-meter poles that were driven through 10 meters or more of water into the solid rock underneath the lake. When the construction was underway, the area was affected by significant rainfall, meaning the 400 meters of path took some six months to complete.

“In particularly wet summers, the water can reach right up to the path, making it feel like you’re actually riding on the water itself,” says Shi. “It’s quite the experience.”

 

While most cyclists are happy to just stick to the sections currently covered by the paths, some more adventurous ones attempt a full loop, which means having to share most of the trip with motor vehicles—a risky proposition on a bicycle.

While the scenic area administration still hopes to get bicycles and motor vehicles fully separated with a complete, high-quality bike path, the small amount of available land makes this difficult. This year, they plan to finish the 3.5 km section connecting the path to the Song­bo­lun and Da­zhu Lake walking trails, which is good news for cyclists.

For those interested in sampling a lakeside biking trip, the best choice is to start from the Shuishe parking lot. To one side is a “cycling rest stop” set up by bicycle makers Giant, where cyclists can rent GPS-equipped folding bikes worth as much as NT$150,000. Depending on the bike, visitors will have to pay a returnable deposit of between NT$18,000 and NT$150,000, with the rental fee of NT$200 per hour deducted before the remaining deposit is returned. Once on the bike, it’s time to head south to the start of the Xiang­shan stretch.

The Xiang­shan cycle path, linking Shui­she Dam with the Ming­tan Outlet, is a serene ride offering broad vistas and beautiful scenery.

Riders can also take a break at the Xiang­shan Visitor Center, a new landmark finished in 2010 at a cost of NT$370 million. Sitting on 3.3 hectares of land, the center, along with a second structure that houses the scenic area administration, are squat, broad buildings with roofs that extend down to the ground. This means visitors can easily climb atop them and enjoy a panoramic view of the area.

The buildings were designed by Japanese architect No­ri­hiko Dan, who gave them a simple, natural, Zen-like style. The overall shape resembles a pair of boomerangs lying on the ground, and the buildings are ringed by water to mirror the lake itself, creating a dialog between man and nature.

Of particular note is the lack of gaudy tiling or pebbling on the exteriors, which instead use simple concrete façade with wood grain pressed into it, giving the buildings a unique sense of style. More than just buildings, the complex is also a work of art, and well worth a closer look—it even won an award in 2011 from Taiwan Architect Magazine.

The winding round-the-lake route can be like a ride through a fantastical wonderland thanks to the beautiful scenery along the way. This photo shows part of the Beidan stretch of the bike path.

The next stretch, from Shui­she Tunnel past the Ming­tan Outlet to ­Huanhu Tunnel No. 1, runs through an area of spectacular plant life and offers excellent views.

The traditional choices for traveling Sun Moon Lake are by car and by boat. These days, though, the combination of environmental friendliness and physical challenge that cycling offers has become increasingly popular, not just in Taiwan but around the world. If you want to try this method of seeing Sun Moon Lake, early spring is the perfect time.

In the early morning, with the lake wreathed in fog that stretches out into the mountains, the only signs of human activity being a few small, anchored boats, Sun Moon Lake at this time of year offers a chance to experience a little bit of heaven on Earth.