Composed of five wooden cabins surrounding a wooden pavilion, Laulai is situated amidst the tribal village in Hsiulin Township, only five minutes from Taroko National Park.

The Laulai Country Garden Guesthouse is run by a mother and daughter team surnamed Kao of the Truku people (part of the Sedeq branch of the Atayal tribe). Their home, built some 20 years ago, is located in the middle of the village. They began adding cabins and operating their bed and breakfast back in 2004. Kao Yu-chen, who previously worked in the loan department of a bank in Taipei, was asked by her mother to return to Hualien to help out a year ago.

Young people have different views when it comes to operating a guesthouse.

"You can't run one of these establishments alone. You have to involve the entire tribe." Upon returning to her village, Kao Yu-chen immediately set about doing the coordinating work. "If you want to bring out what is special about this area, you need the surrounding culture and environment to work in coordination with the B&B."

Persuaded by an enthusiastic Kao Yu-chen, the Taiwanese Aborigines Tattoo Culture Association, directed by local photographer Kimi Sambal (Chinese name Tien Kuei-shih), the Tulan Workshop, which produces Aboriginal art, the Yeh Cheng-jen Stone Carving Workshop, and the Tachili Tribal Restaurant, which specializes in Aboriginal delicacies, mobilized and came together to present a complete picture of Aboriginal culture for visitors to view in Hsiulin Township.

Laulai Guesthouse in Hualien works in with neighboring weaving, sculpture, and tattoo workshops to offer a comprehensive view of local tribal culture.

Badges of life

For the Atayal people, facial tattoos are "badges of life" traditionally awarded to strong, courageous men after they removed an enemy's head from its owner, and to accomplished female weavers.

It's becoming increasingly difficult, however, to actually see anybody with facial tattoos in Hsiulin. Fortunately, Kimi Sambal's Taiwanese Aborigines Tattoo Culture Association has captured images of tattooed individuals for posterity.

Kimi Sibal has photographed the facial tattoos of the Ayatal people for 14 years. It's a tough job. He was once chased out of Sanchan, a settlement in Hsiulin Township's Chingmei Village, by an old man and was once pursued by a dog in Hoping Village. While fleeing, he fell into a ditch, ruining all of his equipment. His reason for persisting in his work is very simple: If he doesn't do it now, it won't be there tomorrow to be done. He explains that tattooed faces in Hsiulin are disappearing rapidly. In 1993, records at the Hsiulin Township Office indicated that there were still 82 elderly people with tattoos. In 2003, only nine were left.

The Natulan Workshop, directed by Hu Hsiu-lan, has taken on the important responsibility of carrying on the tribe's weaving traditions.

Hu, who started learning to weave at age 16, explains that the workshop was established in 2000 to develop new techniques, while learning traditional techniques from the tribe's elders. The Natulan Workshop's many creations, from handbags and backpacks to mobile phone cases and shawls, are very popular with both tribe members and visitors.

The Tachili Tribal Restaurant, located in a traditional Ayatal grass hut, offers such mouthwatering dishes as wild boar, fresh fish, and free-range chicken garnished with wild delicacies, like mountain bitter gourd, black nightshade, wild ragleaf, and pumpkin flowers, served with rice steamed in bamboo or with sticky rice.

Laulai, owned and run by Kao Yu-chen and her mother, isn't "Aboriginal" per se, but its standalone cabins do offer guests privacy and comfort.

"Traditional indigenous architecture isn't all that popular with tourists, so we opted for comfort and beauty," confides Kao Yu-chen.

Kao hopes her B&B will encourage customers to visitors to linger and take in the whole tribal village as a complete showcase which is dedicated to continuing and passing on the indigenous culture. Kao takes it upon herself to update former Laulai visitors with the latest information. She also contacts, offers advice, and provides pickup and drop-off services to individuals interested in visiting. In the future, she will be working with others to promote tourism by offering travel packages and organizing activities. Problem is, Hualien simply has too many scenic spots. Very few people are willing to linger long enough to really soak in Hsiulin's indigenous culture as they dash from place to place.

The next time you are in Hualien, in addition to viewing Taroko National Park's natural beauty, you might consider taking a side trip to Hsiulin Township to experience Aboriginal culture in a different way. You can be sure that it will be more than worth your while.

Address: No. 75-5, Minchih Road, Hsiulin Village, Hsiulin Township, Hualien County
Tel.: (03) 8610199
Website: http://168.to/llg/location.htm

Laulai Guesthouse in Hualien works in with neighboring weaving, sculpture, and tattoo workshops to offer a comprehensive view of local tribal culture.

Laulai Guesthouse in Hualien works in with neighboring weaving, sculpture, and tattoo workshops to offer a comprehensive view of local tribal culture.

Laulai Guesthouse in Hualien works in with neighboring weaving, sculpture, and tattoo workshops to offer a comprehensive view of local tribal culture.

The Aboriginal-themed meals of the Tachili Tribal Restaurant include roast boar, fish, chicken, and wild vegetables, all for NT$300 a head.