Even though the factories are built up in rows in the suburbs, Penang City still maintains its old flavor. The Chinese of Penang constitute 70 percent of Penang's population, and the streets and alleys and covered sidewalk arcades are all imbued with the glow of age, enough to make antiquarians dizzy with joy. "It's too wonderful," said one such enthusiast. "So many buildings all maintained in the 18th-century style."

What's more, Penang also maintains the special characteristics of an immigrant community. Take three or four strides and you'll pass a club for the descendants of those who immigrated from the same place in China or you'll bump into an ancestral temple or shrine. There are no taxis on the street, and now and again you'll see a carefree foreign tourist being pulled by in a rickshaw.

The pace of life here is decidedly laid back. At ten in the morning you can have a leisurely breakfast. Have some bone tea, and or a cup of specially blended coffee. "You can't make a lot of money here, but life is very comfortable," says a smiling Teh Eng-sim, head of the Penang Alumni Association of Taiwan Universities and Colleges.

Rent Control's Unforseen Benefit: Lacking money can be a blessing in disguise, and it's the reason so many of the old Chinese buildings here are intact. After the Second World War, the Malaysian government implemented strict rent control for the economic benefit of tenants. The Chinese landlords were left with no incentive to renovate and have left the buildings--which are falling in to ever greater states of decrepitude--untouched. The law has since, however, been reconsidered and it may next year be repealed. If so, great numbers of the buildings will be renovated or large real estate interests will buy up the buildings for new construction. While this may make the city newer and give its inhabitants more ideal residences, many of hundreds of buildings over a hundred years old will be no more. In this regard, concerned groups have been urgently discussing ways to deal with the problem, hoping that appropriate preservation measures will be made that take into account the city's appearance.

The Dragon Mountain Hall, Malaysia's Most Magnificent: According to a major policy decision of the state government that was first published in a 1989 report, there is a preservation plan for Georgetown in the northeastern corner of Penang. The city has many Chinese temples and ancestral shrines, such as the Kuan Yin Temple (The Goddess of Mercy Temple) and the Khoo shrine, among many others. The Khoo shrine (the Dragon Mountain Hall) is a particularly famous tourist spot, and has been given landmark status by the Malaysian government so that any renovation or building requires permission.

This The Dragon Mountain Hall (the Khoo family originally came from Dragon Mountain) has a 150-year-old history. It is said that because its design was too bold--an imitation of the Ching Dynasty Imperial Palace layout--it evoked the jealous wrath of heaven and burned twice in fires only to be rebuilt each time. With intricate carving and gold paint, the entire temple is extremely ornate and is called the best in all of Malaysia. Across from the temple is a stage for drama and dance, which served as a place to send out gods after making offerings, receive guests or to hold a wedding. While some of the descendants still live nearby the plaza, the frequent gatherings are no more.

From Cheong Fatt-tze's Mansion to a "Penang Palace": Georgetown also has a private residence which has been impressively restored: the former residence of the Ching-dynasty counsel in the golden area of the Lotus river. The residence was neglected for many years until three young overseas Chinese merchants bought it for 2.5 million Malaysian Ringgit (NT$25 million). With such a high price, the sale was the talk of the town. Many people didn't understand what use anyone could have for this house, as it was dilapidated and unable to be converted for business use under the stipulations governing historic architecture. Then these three architects saw the historic value of the building and prepared to restore it and open it as a museum.

This building, which is done in the traditional quadrangle style, is an excellent example of architecture of the period combining Eastern and Western influences. Basically, it is a Chaochou-style big house that makes use of European architectural elements, such as stained glass. Last year a French film crew came and cleaned the place up a bit. Currently, the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion has been closed for renovation under the guidance of a consultant on old architecture from mainland China who has brought with him traditional materials. Everything is being done as carefully as possible. The future center of materials on the Chinese people will have exhibits about the able founders of the city and displays of hand-crafted artifacts and antiques in addition to a tea room where visitors can rest. These various plans lead people to eagerly await the opening of this Penang Palace.

Awaiting the Birth of a City of Old Culture: After seeing Penang, Chang Yu-huan, a mainland Chinese scholar who was invited to Malaysia in connection with business regarding the Johor Temple, holds that if the Penang government would establish a number of historical districts and prohibit economic development and preserve the original appearance of the architecture, within 10 years they would definitely be of more economic value than building high rises.

But the truth is that Penang already feels the same way. According to Ooi Bok-kim of an architectural firm, the state government has already provided legal protection for old buildings. Citizen groups, such as the Penang Heritage Trust and the Heritage of Malaysia Trust have been founded one after another and are expending great effort to protect every kind of old architecture. The chairman of the Penang Culture Coordinating Committee hopes he can invite craftsmen from mainland and Taiwan to work together to make Penang into a cultural city and not merely a tourist and shopping center.

And what about those who have carried on in the tradition of the Lu Pan Hang, which referred to the profession of all craftsmen when they arrived on these shores from mainland China 200 years ago? The name is now used as the name of the union for carpenters, carvers and builders, but many of the traditional skills of doing things by hand have been lost. "We plan to retrain a number of people," says Ooi Bok-kim. "Later they will be able to preserve and repair old buildings, restoring them to their original appearance."

[Picture Caption]

The stage across from the Dragon Mountain Hall in years past was a good place for welcoming and sending off the gods or holding weddings.

(Above) In accordance with tradition, two Bangladeshis stand guard at the Chiu ancestral shrine (The Dragon Mountain Hall).

(Below) The designs on the four inside walls of the temple are exquisite. The carving work throughout the temple is said to be the best in Malaysia.

For the sake of a careful restoration, not only has an architect been invited from mainland China to serve as a consultant, but traditional materials have also been brought in for repairs which are to be made by hand in the traditional fashion. (photo by Ooi Bok-kim)

The former residence of Cheong Fatt-tze, a Ching dynasty counsel, recently fetched a high price and is being prepared to be made into "The Penang Palace."

The stained glass is a European architectural ornament. (photo by Ooi Bok-kim)

（Above） In accordance with tradition, two Bangladeshis stand guard at the Chiu ancestral shrine （The Dragon Mountain Hall）.

（Below） The designs on the four inside walls of the temple are exquisite. The carving work throughout the temple is said to be the best in Malaysia.

For the sake of a careful restoration, not only has an architect been invited from mainland China to serve as a consultant, but traditional materials have also been brought in for repairs which are to be made by hand in the traditional fashion. （photo by Ooi Bok-kim）

The stained glass is a European architectural ornament. （photo by Ooi Bok-kim）

The former residence of Cheong Fatt-tze, a Ching dynasty counsel, recently fetched a high price and is being prepared to be made into "The Penang Palace.".