Reviving tribal economies
In 2009, Typhoon Morakot hit hard in the Kaohsiung and Pingtung region. Many Aboriginal communities lost their homes and were forced to move to new areas. But their traditional crop of red quinoa once again came to the rescue, initiating a revival of the Aboriginal tribal economy.
In 2012, Hsieh Chen-chang, general manager of organic farm operator Kullku Co., made contracts with a number of Aboriginal villages in Pingtung and Taitung to grow red quinoa. Hsieh’s wife is Aboriginal, so he had long known about red quinoa through his wife’s Paiwan tribe background. Four years ago, he retired from a logistics operation, intending to invest in agriculture. He recalled the fine qualities of red quinoa, and thus became one of a few pioneer investors in Taiwan red quinoa.
After the devastation of Typhoon Morakot in 2009, the displacement affecting Aboriginal communities created both emotional and economic gloom. Song Jinshan recalls one sad occasion. He had been involved in 921 Earthquake reconstruction work in Xinyi Township, Nantou County. After Typhoon Morakot, he became project manager in the front line of reconstruction work for the Baihe community in Changzhi Township, Pingtung County. Six villages—a total of over 250 households—moved into the new community, but less than half a year later, 37 of the new residents had passed away. The impact of the disaster, exacerbated by homesickness, had been too much for them to bear.
The reconstruction team tried hard to heal their pain. In 2013, through the Pingtung County Department of Agriculture, Song heard about Hsieh’s plan to invest in planting red quinoa. Song proposed a plan of cooperation, and hoped that through a system of contracted farming, the new residents of Baihe would rediscover the original “flavor” of their hometown.
Ba Qingyi, one of the residents, is 80 years old. After the disaster, he left the mountain with many of his tribespeople to live in the new community. At the beginning, he wasn’t happy, but after starting work with red quinoa, his spirit revived. His son Ba Wenxiong retired from military service and went home to look after his father. He says that a smile returned to his father’s face, and he became more energetic after planting red quinoa. They also delighted in the fact that red quinoa, which in their childhood memories was used to brew wine, had such a high nutritional and economic value.
As the global popularity of quinoa swells, Taiwan quinoa is also becoming increasingly popular on the domestic market. Many people are becoming involved in production, including farmers from Duoliang Township in Taitung, Namaxia Township in Kaohsiung, and Xinyi Township in Nantou. After the cooperative project with Hsieh, the Original-Love Woodworking Workshop, in addition to cultivating red quinoa, expanded its use of traditional Aboriginal handicrafts in packaging red quinoa products, highlighting the values of Aboriginal life.
While global health and food security remain two of the most concerning issues in today’s world, the growing knowledge of Taiwan quinoa has overcome the ignorance of the past, and the grain is fast becoming a new star in 21st-century cuisine. With its bright red and yellow coloring, Taiwan quinoa’s ability to flourish in dry, barren soil seems somehow to symbolize its vitality.
With a long tradition for Taiwan’s Aboriginal people, red quinoa has helped a number of communities get back on their feet after the devastation of Typhoon Morakot. The photo shows Ba Qingyi from Adiri Village harvesting red quinoa.