Glory and tears
Businesses usually give a red envelope of cash to the Handans when they come down from the palanquin as a token of gratitude, and Chinyeh hands out specially made gold medals every year.
A close look at the shirtless Handans after the ordeal reveals that not only are they shaking, but their chests are covered with welts and long, bloody scrapes. It's not a pretty sight. Occasionally, a fearless teenager steps up to be a Handan. When the parents hear about it and rush to the scene, only to see their baby enveloped in smoke and explosions, it's hard for them to take. Fathers are seen with heads lowered, trying to wipe away tears without being seen, while mothers just lose control. Such parents are the saddest part of the spectacle.
Due to the heavy volume of firecrackers this year, and the fact that most of the Handans are first-timers in their teens to mid-twenties, they can only take so much. "One from last year could beat three from this year," a Chinyeh employee says. This year the Handans invited by Chinyeh just turn a few circles and come down. The goldsmith can't keep up to make enough medals for them all. The shop staff keep crying out, "That's it?"
When it's all over, the shop has given out 11 medals. The last participant, "Hsiao Hua," is the star attraction. He's taken part in the festival several times before and performed like a hero. Because no one will take turns after him, he has to endure the explosions till the end of the ceremony.
With a fierce look in his eye, he takes to the palanquin. No matter how rough it gets, he never drops his banyan branch. During the explosions, he receives wild applause befitting a hero.
As soon as Hsiao Hua comes down, he is mobbed by workers from Hsuanwu Temple. They spray him down with antiseptic to keep his cuts from becoming infected. A spectator gives a thumbs-up sign, saying, "Now that's how it's done!"
Hsiao Hua collects his medal, and his girlfriend, who looks like nothing has even happened, lights him a cigarette to help him relax. She says the first time Hsiao Hua took part in the festival she cried her eyes out, but after so many years, she's used to it.
When asked why he didn't signal with the banyan branch to stop, he smiles and says, "I gotta look cool! It looks better that way!" Then he says more seriously, if you can't take it you shouldn't bother going up in the first place, and once you are up there, you've got to show some "spirit." It's tough talk from a guy who wants to give face to the "brothers" he came with.
In the past, when businesses ran the festival, it was largely unregulated. Now the Hsuanwu Temple makes sure things go smoothly.