In the seventies, necklaces made of coarse, unglazed ceramic beads were the rage in Europe and America. Those who sold them went to various ceramic centers in search of factories who could produce the beads.

At that time in Taiwan most ceramic factories produced antique imitations, architectural ceramics and other items which required large gas kilns and high firing temperatures. Small electric kilns and lower firing temperatures of 700°to 800°will suffice for bead-making. Because of this facility, P'an Chen-ye, head of the Hsinyiyuan factory and Li Liang-yi, an instructor of ceramics, agreed to produce ceramic beads for western consumption.

Using patterns determined by western buyers, they produced a number of beads in varying shades and sizes, a small percentage of which were sold to local customers. But the unpolished, subtle colored beads so popular in America and Europe received little attention in Taiwan, where the Chinese have always preferred brilliant, polished jewelry, particularly in gold and other precious metals. Moreover, jewelry in China has always been valued as property as well as decoration.

After two years the market for ceramic necklaces in the West reached a saturation point. As their popularity in the West dwindled, and the market in Taiwan failed to materialize, bead-makers returned to their former activities. Li Liang-yi however, continued to work on methods to improve the quality and variety of ceramic beads, sometimes adding brilliantly colored glazes.

The traditional art of Chinese knotting has long been popular in the East. A few years ago artisans began making knotted necklaces with small carved wooden or lacquer beads worked into the knotted design. Li discovered that adding his newly refined, brightly glazed ceramic beads would be elegant and in keeping with Chinese tastes. The result was a popular success.

Li's next step was to create a bead that would represent China's ceramic history. The answer was ch'inghua ceramic beads. These beads are soft light green, or celadon in color, with traditional Chinese landscapes or bird and flower designs painted on by hand. Their popularity stimulated other factories to begin producing ch'inghua for knotted necklaces. Soon, two more types were added: t'iehua and ts'aihui.

The process of making a t'iehua bead involves first shaping the bead and giving it an initial firing and glaze. Next, a standard form applique, similar to what a westerner might use in decoupage, is adhered to the surface. This is followed by a second firing, in which the design becomes firmly attached to the ceramic. Designs on t'iehua beads tend to be limited to standard flower patterns, which lack the life and vitality of the hand-painted motifs used in ch'inghua.

This is not true of ts'aihui, a technique which Li was the first to use in bead-making. Ts'aihui beads are first given an initial firing and glaze. After this, tiny landscapes, birds or other motifs are painted onto the surface with a small brush, after which the bead is fired again.

Shiny ts'aihui beads come in a wide variety of shapes, and may be a single color or multi-colored. One company that sells the bead is the Porco Company, which caters to both domestic and foreign markets. Porco's success in Taiwan may be attributed to its method of retailing beads. While its competitors sell beads as part of completed necklaces, Porco sells them separately, before they are worked into knotting designs. Customers enter the shop and choose the combination of beads which best suits their taste, after which they are strung into necklaces. Customers are also taught how to make their own necklaces and to do Chinese knot-tying.

The Hsinyiyuan Company, earlier producers of the rough beads sold to Europe and America, has returned to making beads, now brighter and more variegated than their predecessors. In addition to necklaces, they also make bead earrings, bracelets, belts and Chinese hairpins.

The Chinch'eng Company has yet another innovation—beads used in house decorations. Small round beads are sewn together to make beaded curtains and seat cushions, some in solid colors and others in colorful patterns. Unlike their textile equivalents, beaded curtains and coverings are not subject to mold and mildew in Taiwan's warm humid months. Beaded, ventilated seat cushions are particularly welcome during the hot summer.

Ceramic beads have undeniably come a long way since their initial production in Taiwan. Much, however, remains to be done. Most ceramic bead factories are small, and must increase their capital before they can expand and enter the export market. While bead quality has improved over past years, ceramic jewelry has yet to reach the level where it can compete with gems and metal jewelry to be worn on formal occasions. In the future, factories must continue to work on new and innovative designs and techniques. In this way, the art of ceramic jewelry will continue to grown on Taiwan.

(Jill Ardourel)

[Picture Caption]

1. This bold ceramic pendant was painted with a colorful design before firing. 2. Black and white clothing is elegantly accented by a necklace of alternating black and white beads. 3. A ceramic bead with a floral design was tied onto this Chinese knotted necklace, adding a dignified touch. 4. This necklace strung with cylindrical and gold beads radiates a youthful, feminine charm.

1. Ch'inghua beads have elegant classical patterns. 2.3.4.5.6. Ceramic beads now appear in bracelets, earrings, Chinese hairpins and belts.

1. Hanging from this green Chinese knotting design is a simple celadon peapod. 2. Movie actress Lung Chun-erh wears a unique, graceful ceramic necklace. 3. This ch'inghua plum, symbol of longevity, hangs from bright red knotting. The combination is a favorite among the Chinese.

2. Black and white clothing is elegantly accented by a necklace of alternating black and white beads.

3. A ceramic bead with a floral design was tied onto this Chinese knotted necklace, adding a dignified touch.

4. This necklace strung with cylindrical and gold beads radiates a youthful, feminine charm.

1. Ch'inghua beads have elegant classical patterns.

2.3.4.5.6. Ceramic beads now appear in bracelets, earrings, Chinese hairpins and belts.

2.3.4.5.6. Ceramic beads now appear in bracelets, earrings, Chinese hairpins and belts.

2.3.4.5.6. Ceramic beads now appear in bracelets, earrings, Chinese hairpins and belts.

2.3.4.5.6. Ceramic beads now appear in bracelets, earrings, Chinese hairpins and belts.

2.3.4.5.6. Ceramic beads now appear in bracelets, earrings, Chinese hairpins and belts.

1. Hanging from this green Chinese knotting design is a simple celadon peapod.

2. Movie actress Lung Chun-erh wears a unique, graceful ceramic necklace.

3. This ch'inghua plum, symbol of longevity, hangs from bright red knotting. The combination is a favorite among the Chinese.