In former times when the economy of the Republic of China was still in its developing stages, a man may have owned one suit. Formal occasions to wear suits were few and it really wasn't a requirement in the workplace. If the need to buy a suit arose, there were skilled tailors who could put their deft fingers to work in creating durable, well-tailored suits.

Today, economic prosperity, the rapid transition to high technology and the barrage of international fashion trends have created a large market for more formal, "western" style dress (suits, trousers, shirts and ties). This increased pace of life was also the catalyst for another clothing direction: the colorful, comfortable line of leisure apparel which has added a touch of relaxation to the busy schedule of daily life. As demand for better quality men's clothes increased, the source of production changed. While demand grew, people were too busy to afford the time to go to tailors to have their suits custom-made. Consequently, the need arose for mass production of ready-to-wear quality clothes.

Beginning about eight years ago, the domestic men's clothing industry began full-scale automation of production. Factories, fully equipped with machines took the place of previous human labor. Today, automation can literally perform every step of clothing production: from design, to printing, cutting, and the final sewing. Factory workers provide the crucial linkage in the smooth flow of the automation system of production.

Carnival Textile Industrial Corporation (Chiayu), is one of the leading domestic manufacturers of men's apparel. The company had as early as 1974 begun producing suits for export sale. Domestic market potential, however, soon eclipsed the declining export demand and in 1977 Carnival concentrated on manufacturing apparel for the island market. In 1982, the company took a major step by completely equipping a new factory in Taoyuan with the latest in automated machinery. The plant boasts such special features as high-speed cutting machines, and automatic button, pocket and seam machines. Each stage of an apparel's production is handled separately by the appropriate machine. Automation saves time, increases efficiency and output, and reduces overall labor and production costs. The company has invested over US$100,000 in seeking the cooperative direction and guidance of Japanese experts.

Such heavy investment in capital may have seemed a bit rash to some, but Carnival has used long-range planning and foresight in its goals. Management has perceptively planned to ride the crest of the growing market for men's clothes.

Far East Textiles Limited, one of the Republic of China's largest export consortiums (1982 sales of US$157.3 million) began domestic production of men's suits in 1978. Working in a cooperative effort with the US men's clothing manufacturer, Hart Company, the group has produced its own line of men's wear. This effort was put into mass production with the importation of two sets of machinery. Originally planned as a joint export and domestic sales venture, the company was forced by quota limitations to make a switch to concentration on domestic sales.

One of the most important aspects of suit selection is the material. The best quality suits use 100% wool material for its warmth and comfort. Taiwan's rather hot, humid climate is seemingly not a suitable environment for wool suits. This, however, has been refuted by the International Wool Association which states that wool also has the ability to block heat. Suits on Taiwan are both wool and mixed blends of wool and synthetic fabric. These mixed blends are lower in price and shrink less than the pure wool suits. Imported materials such as camel's hair are also used for suit manufacturing. Prices, on the average, run from a low of about US$125 up to $250, which represents as much as a 40 to 50% reduction from tailor-made suits.

There are many styles which one can choose from but the most popular types are: solid colors, pinstripe, cross-stripe and patterned suits. Among the most widely bought colors: blue, gray, black, coffee and indigo blue.

Size is an important consideration and companies seeking to grab a large share of the market offer a wide range in size. Carnival, for example, has 25 different size combinations that ensure that even the thin and the stout are outfitted.

Dress shirts represent an even more important article of clothing than suits. While some men may not have a suit, every man will have at least a few shirts.

The First Company represents the traditional guard in domestic shirt manufacturing. First established about 50 years ago in Shanghai, the company followed the government over to Taiwan and has since gradually grown into the major company it is. In 1983 members of the management went to Japan for inspection and instruction, and upon their return a new system of computer regulated machinery was installed. This computer control regulates temperature, time, pressure and other assorted functions.

Far East Textiles Limited is also engaged in shirt production through a joint venture with the popular US shirt manufacturer, Manhattan. Arrow Shirts, another US name brand has a cooperative agreement with the local Aile Company. First Company and Far East produce more formal shirt styles, while Arrow has branched into casual shirt styles as well as the formal dress shirt line.

Shirts, because of the many pattern designs, color and material combinations, are often much more trouble to manufacture than suits.

Local shirts are usually of a mixed polyester-cotton blend. This combination offers the double advantage of having cotton's breath ability and polyester's resistance to shrinkage.

New styles are introduced during the two seasons: spring-summer and autumn-winter. This year Far East promoted a line of shirts made with Sea Island Cotton, a long fiber weave, and for fall-winter has a 100% wool shirt which has earned the International Wool Association's seal of recognition. Colors and pattern are important factors in shirt styles. White, light brown and light blue are most popular on Taiwan. Collar styles run the range from traditional high ridge styles, to round types and this season's popular "button-down" style. Prices are a reflection of material quality, with a good shirt starting at US$15 and going as high as $75 for the top of the line brands.

Nothing complements a suit or dress shirt more than the right tie. Domestic manufacturers are predominantly small-scale family operations, with only five or six leading companies. Golden Bell (Chin Chung) represents the leader in local tie production. The company has over 30 years of growth and experience in the tie market. Each year, before promotion of new tie styles, employees are sent abroad (especially to Japan) to check new trends and collect information. These facts are analyzed and combined with a consideration for local style and taste preferences. Top quality ties are made of silk, but owing to its scarcity and expensive costs, is not in great demand on the local market. Mixed weaves, and simulated silks are used. Popular colors include red, blue, grey and coffee. Patterns are either printed on or woven with a blend of materials. Standard widths are about 3 inches and lengths around 54 to 55 inches.

Leisure clothes have become popular with men on Taiwan for a variety of reasons: they are comfortable to wear, soft and casual. Some companies had the foresight to begin production of these clothes before the actual current boom, while many international brand names have become popular items in department stores and specialty shops. A few of the local products such as Kennex and Green have become synonymous with quality and are displayed along with the "imported" labels.

Green began in 1974 when a group of friends who often travelled abroad, and saw the trend towards sports wear, decided to develop the market on Taiwan. From a small office of only 66 square meters, the company today boasts over 1,650 square meters in their Tainan Anping site. Green specializes in the production of colorful, fresh golf shirts that, while targeted for the Middle-age group are quite popular with young men as well.

Kennex originally started as a tennis racket manufacturer but in 1980 branched into the sports and leisure apparel line. Today they promote two distinct lines: athletic wear (tennis, running wear) and leisure clothes (golf shirts, rugby shirts etc.). Kennex stresses quality materials, strict inspection and original designs.

In spite of its rather brief history on Taiwan, the domestic men's clothing industry has made giant strides forward in its aim to produce top quality ready-to-wear apparel for today's active man.

(Gerald Hatherly)

[Picture Caption]

1. A beautiful stained glass window on the wall of Carnival Textiles' retail department colorfully depicts the tailor's expertise. 2. A helpful clerk assists a customer trying on a suit. 3. In tailoring a shirt, employees first draw out and record the print on the material marking paper in order to achieve accuracy and save material.

1,2,3. Carnival's Taoyuan factory: 1. employees manipulating a material stacking machine, which folds and prepares material for cutting; 2. the latest innovation, a pocket cutting machine; 3. a shoulder seam sewing machine that connects shoulder seams; 4. Society Brand suits (Far East Textiles Limited) use a mix and match style of suit selection to attract a younger clientele.

1,2. Lancaster's suit jackets and trousers boast expert workmanship and stylish colors. 3. First Company is the Republic of China's oldest brand maker of men's dress shirts. 4. The First Company's shirt factory. 5. Shirt collars are put through a pressure machine process to produce the adequate stiffness. 6. Automatic scissors can save time by cutting several layers of material at once.

1. Manhattan uses a traditional, dignified, stylish design in their shirts. 2. The retail sales window display at Arrow Shirts has been carefully arranged. 3. Golden Bell Ties, a leading domestic company with a long tradition produces many stylish and colorful ties. 4. One of the steps in tie production--cutting.

1. Kennex, originally a famous manufacturer of tennis rackets, also produces top quality leisure wear clothes. 2. Green's specialty display counters boast a colorful array of smartly designed leisure apparel.

2. A helpful clerk assists a customer trying on a suit.

3. In tailoring a shirt, employees first draw out and record the print on the material marking paper in order to achieve accuracy and save material.

1,2,3. Carnival's Taoyuan factory: 1. employees manipulating a material stacking machine, which folds and prepares material for cutting.

2. the latest innovation, a pocket cutting machine;.

3. a shoulder seam sewing machine that connects shoulder seams;.

4. Society Brand suits （Far East Textiles Limited） use a mix and match style of suit selection to attract a younger clientele.

1,2. Lancaster's suit jackets and trousers boast expert workmanship and stylish colors.

1,2. Lancaster's suit jackets and trousers boast expert workmanship and stylish colors.

3. First Company is the Republic of China's oldest brand maker of men's dress shirts.

4. The First Company's shirt factory.

5. Shirt collars are put through a pressure machine process to produce the adequate stiffness.

6. Automatic scissors can save time by cutting several layers of material at once.

1. Manhattan uses a traditional, dignified, stylish design in their shirts.

2. The retail sales window display at Arrow Shirts has been carefully arranged.

3. Golden Bell Ties, a leading domestic company with a long tradition produces many stylish and colorful ties.

4. One of the steps in tie production--cutting.

1. Kennex, originally a famous manufacturer of tennis rackets, also produces top quality leisure wear clothes.

2. Green's specialty display counters boast a colorful array of smartly designed leisure apparel.