Reinventing Meizhou Island
In the last two years the Matsu craze has slowly died down. The number of religious pilgrims is not as high as when travel to the mainland was first opened up. In order to keep attracting more tourists, Meizhou Island Travel Company General Manager Cai Wanxi plans to promote a specialized travel agenda. Not only will tour group members be able to worship at the Mother Temple; they will be able to don Matsu costumes and have their hair done up in "Matsu dos." He further plans to cooperate with the Mother Temple to let guests listen to the chanting of Matsu scriptures and participate in Matsu rituals. In the evening will be held the "Chamber of Dreams." Everyone will sleep together fully clothed in the main court, absorbing the dreams conveyed by Matsu. The following dawn they will rush to have the auspicious privilege of placing the first joss stick in the day's fresh incense vessel.
Seven years ago, after Meizhou Island opened up as a "Foreign Tourism Economic Zone," large-scale construction began on the island. At the time when local residents espied a motorized tractor, they took it to be a monster from the spirit world. Such was the complete insularity that originally possessed Meizhou Island. In those days, the island had no public roads, running water or electricity. Three-star hotels and public toilets were simply unimagined. Aboard the wooden ferryboats, all that could be seen were fish and livestock. Cai Wanxi recalls that many of the Taiwan pilgrims who came in the early days described Meizhou Island as a place they "wouldn't have missed for the world, but would never come back to."
In less than a decade, more than 20 hotels have appeared on previously undeveloped land around the island. There are even karaokes and discos. And most of the land on the island that can be developed has already been sold to the Lippo Group of Indonesia, to be developed as a vacation recreation area, which will include a large-scale shopping center, a subdivision of holiday villas and a golf course. It is principally designed to attract vacationing employees of the many foreign-invested concerns that are clustered throughout Fujian and Guangdong. Besides this, Meizhou Island and Taiwan are separated by only 80 nautical miles at the closest point, and many investors are betting that Taiwan and mainland China will open up direct transport links.
Emissary of the cross-strait economy
By making the most of the special features of Meizhou, the National Tourism and Recreation Area's major intent is to expand the island's focus from religious pilgrimages to recreational tourism. The local government continues to promote a series of Matsu-oriented events.
The first reverberating shots of this campaign were heard five years ago with the tremendous success of the "Millennial Celebration of Matsu's Ascension to Heaven." At the time a pilgrimage group from the Chenlan Temple in Taiwan's Tachia attended the event, making a detour through Japan to circumvent travel prohibitions. All along their journey, the group progressed in a great crowd, making sacrificial bows with incense. The hosts put on a Matsu art exhibition, a Matsu conference, a commemorative Matsu postage stamp. . . . Last year's Matsu Cultural Festival sponsored a string of massive sacrificial services in honor of Matsu, sending out printed invitations to more than 200 Matsu temples in Taiwan.
"Culture raises the stage; economics sings the opera," Putian City Literary and Historical Society assistant supervisor Jiang Weitan observes. In recent years regional culture has been given a great deal of attention in mainland China. Every local government desires to stoke up the reputation of their own locale, in order to solicit tourists and foreign investment. It is hardly out of the ordinary, then, that the Putian municipal government, the ministry of tourism, and office of industry consider Meizhou Island to be very important.
In recent years, because Matsu has helped facilitate the flow across the Taiwan Strait, a new sobriquet has been added to the 64 titles she has received throughout history: "Goddess of Cross-Strait Peace." Today it appears that Matsu's role is changing from an envoy of peace to an "emissary of fortune" for the benefit of civic organizations.
[Picture Caption]
p.96
To visit and worship on Meizhou Island is a lifelong aspiration of many Matsu believers from Taiwan. These pilgrimage groups have become the largest clientele for the local tourist agencies.
p.97
From the expansive vantage point of Meizhou's Mother Temple, large-scale construction seems omnipresent on this little island made famous by Matsu.
p.98
Dazzling and colorful folk entertainment groups not only champion the deities but also stimulate hometown fame, which can attract a wave of tourists. Their performances are truly a great method to "please both the gods and mankind."
p.99
Having one's hair set in the sail-shaped "Matsu do" is a way of asking for protection for the fishermen in one's family. Matsu dos, Matsu costumes and Matsu banquets all count among the special tourist resources of Meizhou Island.