The low Mandarin collar, crescent-shaped opening, red silk material, loose long sleeves, and decoration of colorful silk brocade binding with gold hemline on the neckline and cuff－this was the basic design of a chi pao style evening dress worn by Elizabeth Taylor at a recent White House reception.

This high-quality dress, one of six of its kind given to Miss Taylor when she was invited by the Republic of China to present the Golden Horse Awards－equivalent to Oscars in the West－in Taipei in 1979, is the work of Lisa Wang, one of the leading garment designers in the Republic of China. As the chi pao style is one of her favorites, Miss Taylor wears it for many important occasions.

Styling. Realizing that Chinese style garments were becoming popular in world fashion circles, a group of young local costume designers worked hard to revive the essence of the traditional Chinese garment. Though adapted to keep pace with modern lifestyles, these garments preserve graceful Chinese traditions and beauty. As a result of publicity in journals and on TV, they have become popular on local and foreign markets.

As the economy has prospered, people in Taiwan have become more demanding in their dress. Besides being comfortable and beautiful, clothes must also display national characteristics. Moreover, local fashion designers are tired of merely copying Western style garments. They want to create a style based on the roots of Chinese traditions.

The so-called Chinese style garment is in no way an improved chi pao or a revival of classical style costume. It is continuously being renovated while at the same time retaining a Chinese flavor in design, accessories and color.

At present, there are more than 10 factories engaged in the line, which often sponsor fashion shows to publicize their creations. At first, the garments looked like exhibits in a museum, gorgeous but strange. People simply couldn't wear them on social occasions.

A breakthrough was made recently as designers ingeniously merged traditional coiled button, crescent openings, side slits and hemlines of the traditional Chinese garment with modern concepts. They paid special attention to the function and practicality of the garments, so that women at all levels of society and of all ages could appreciate them.

Features. The padded cotton jacket is a hot fashion item in winter. For variation, costume designers have put on the market vests and silk padded jackets with hemline and embroidery, which go very well with turtle neck sweaters, skirts and trousers. When spring arrives, all kinds of two or three piece ensembles, T-shirts and backless garments in traditional Chinese style have given fashionable ladies a fresh appearance.

These garments are categorized by the occasions on which they are worn－at home, at work or for social engagements; by age and cost for girl students and for ladies. Prices range from US$30 to US$300, according to tailoring materials and accessories used.

Cotton, linen, flannel, velvet, chemical fiber, pure silk and blended fiber, most of them locally made, are among the materials frequently used. Different materials have different kinds of beauty. In general, calico is used to make the hemline or button cloth to match the plain cloth garment, which helps to capture the traditional spirit of the dress.

Pure and lustrous silk, blended and chemical fibers are used to make evening dresses. More work and therefore higher prices are necessary if the gowns are decorated with exquisite embroidery and painted designs.

As time passed, designers no longer limited themselves to taking their inspiration from garments of the Ming and Ching dynasties. Peiping opera, pottery figurines of the Han and Tang dynasties excavated from graves, aborigine costumes and even temple architecture all become sources of inspiration. Patterns with folklore themes such as sycees (Chinese silver coins), copper coins, scepter, fan, flower, and such Chinese characters as blissfulness and longevity are also incorporated in costume design.

To make these Chinese style garments even more beautiful, all kinds of accessories have been introduced. Macrame girdles with tassels on both ends are a good example. Sometimes, jade and other precious stones, porcelain beads, cloisonne and sycees are made into elegant decorations for the waist or neckline. Varied and classical hairpins also help to enhance the garments' appearance.

Export potential. Introduced abroad by tourists, overseas Chinese and students, the Chinese-style garments have become popular among overseas Chinese and foreigners. Garments play a major role in Taiwan's exports. Lee You, an instructor in costume design at the Shih Chien Home Economics College in Taipei, who has her 10 years experience in promoting Chinese-style garments, said that exports have a promising potential. As the Republic of China approaches the status of a developed country, Lee thinks making high-class garments is the only way to over come cut-throat international com petition. Chinese-style garments need too much hand work and are not suitable for mass production.

Since Western consumers are composed mainly of professional women, Lee realized that local factories must be careful to choose quality raw material and attractive designs as well as using advanced tailoring techniques to win orders on world markets. Lee also suggested that more fashion exhibitions be held to make each factory's products more well-known inter-nationally. She also called for more businessmen to join in the planning and organization of market surveys to open up a new vista for local fashion houses.

As garments can best reflect a nation's living standards, profound culture and advancing economy, it is believed that with continuous renovation, the Chinese style garment can ride on the world tide and help Chinese tailoring to reach new heights.

[Picture Caption]

1. Incorporating simple dyed linen and cotton materials, and comfortable design, Chinese-style garments can be worn on most occasions. 2. Purple velvet decorated with silver hemline, button and girdle is typically Chinese in its color and design. 3. Unique design is coupled with bright colors in this smart outfit. Picture shows a Window display in a garment shop in the downtown Hsimenting district of Taipei.

1. This padded cotton jacket is a hot fashion item in winter. Exquisite embroidery and painted designs help to capture the traditional spirit of the dress. 2. All kinds of traditional Chinese style dresses give fashionable women a fresh appearance. 3. Decoration of calico cotton gives this dress a traditional look.

1. Decorated with butterflies and flowers on the pockets and neckline and macrame girdles with tassels at both ends, these two garments look beautiful on these young women. 2. Lisa Wang, one of the leading fashion designers in the Republic of China, is an enthusiastic promoter of Chinese style garments. She is seen here handing over a high-quality dress to Miss Elizabeth Taylor. 3. In this Chinese-style wedding gown, the sharp contrast between the red vest and the white evening dress make the bride look radiant and pure. 4. The simple design of this gown makes it well suited for family wear.

1. Women in free China wear the red chi pao for all kinds of auspicious occasions. Mandarin collar, gold decorated lines over blue cloth and blue girdle are special features of this dress. 2. Silk, brocade and velvet are among the materials most frequently used to make fashionable evening dresses. Company managers often go abroad to conduct inspection tours and to open up foreign markets. 3. Chinese style two-piece ensemble. 4. Chinese style garments have become popular on local and foreign markets. Besides being comfortable and beautiful, these garments also display national characteristics.

2. Purple velvet decorated with silver hemline, button and girdle is typically Chinese in its color and design.

3. Unique design is coupled with bright colors in this smart outfit. Picture shows a Window display in a garment shop in the downtown Hsimenting district of Taipei.

1. This padded cotton jacket is a hot fashion item in winter. Exquisite embroidery and painted designs help to capture the traditional spirit of the dress.

2. All kinds of traditional Chinese style dresses give fashionable women a fresh appearance.

3. Decoration of calico cotton gives this dress a traditional look.

1. Decorated with butterflies and flowers on the pockets and neckline and macrame girdles with tassels at both ends, these two garments look beautiful on these young women.

2. Lisa Wang, one of the leading fashion designers in the Republic of China, is an enthusiastic promoter of Chinese style garments. She is seen here handing over a high-quality dress to Miss Elizabeth Taylor.

3. In this Chinese-style wedding gown, the sharp contrast between the red vest and the white evening dress make the bride look radiant and pure.

4. The simple design of this gown makes it well suited for family wear.

Women in free China wear the red chi pao for all kinds of auspicious occasions. Mandarin collar, gold decorated lines over blue cloth and blue girdle are special features of this dress.

Silk, brocade and velvet are among the materials most frequently used to make fashionable evening dresses. Company managers often go abroad to conduct inspection tours and to open up foreign markets.

Chinese style two-piece ensemble.

Chinese style garments have become popular on local and foreign markets. Besides being comfortable and beautiful, these garments also display national characteristics.