Modernization has reached every corner of Taipei city, even the oldest parts such as Tataocheng. Fortunately, Tihua St. in this area has only been marginally affected, and many of the old businesses still thrive.

Tataocheng, or Yenping district, to give it its modern name, is located in northwestern Taipei on the banks of the Tamsui River. It is situated next to Mengchia (now Wanhua) the oldest harbor in northern Taiwan. During the reign of Kanhsi in the Ching Dynasty, Cheng Li-chang was allowed to settle in the area, and more and more Han people followed him. Tataocheng was so named from a mound of higher ground in the area on which the people used to dry their rice.

When the river around Mengchia became silted up, Tataocheng became the new harbor for trade with the mainland of China. After Taiwan became a province of China during the reign of Kuanghsu, Liu Ming-chuan, the first governor, set aside Tataocheng as a residential area for foreign businessmen. As a result, more and more ships visited the port, more buildings were erected, and development proceeded at a fast pace.

Among businesses operating in Yenping district today are those selling cloth, grain, provisions, mineral oil, plus a few small department and tea dealers' stores. Even though the "golden era" of Tihua St. has long since passed, it still retains its old atmosphere. Because many businessmen in the area adhere to the old idea of loyalty, they are trusted by their customers. Visitors are impressed by the relaxed feeling of traditional Chinese hospitality.

On one side of the street, many stores can be found selling Buddhist relics. In the twilight under the eaves, girls can be seen embroidering dragons and horses and other lucky symbols with colorful thread. The results of their work are placed in front of the doors of residences where people are about to be married, or around tables on which sacrificial offerings have been placed. Among the most popular Buddhist relics are lotus-shaped lanterns, candlesticks, incense sticks and images of the Earth God and the Goddess of Mercy. Outside the stores under walkways covered with red brick cloisters are baskets containing all kinds of food. Mixed with the pungent smell of raw fish are the more gentle fragrances of tea and aromatic oil.

Just down the street to the north are flour stores, where as likely as not, the owner can be found in the back calculating his profits on an abacus. In the agricultural stores, spades, hoes and other agricultural implements are arranged in neat rows. A hunchbacked old man is carving chops in various styles. Lantern stores contain items in all shapes and sizes.

In the midst of all these shops can be found the Hsiahai Temple, which houses the famous City God of Taipei. The god has eight subordinates who judge the good and evil behavior in the world, and allocate souls to Hades. Red lanterns are hung from the ceilings, and the fragrance of incense pervades the whole scene. Despite the temple's small size, it has a large number of followers, who turn out in strength on the City God's birthday.

After passing the public market under the Taipei Bridge, Tihua Street becomes narrower, and stress changes from commerce to agriculture. The pace of life is slower, but the crowds are the same. At the Lungchou tea booth, old men gather to play chess and reminisce. Time seems to have stood still.

The interior of the Hsinchinsheng Theater is festooned with fiddles, moon guitars and pipes. Cheek by jowl with an iron foundry is a funeral home which is beginning to fill up with mourners.

One can buy anything in Tihua St., suitable for occasions associated with birth and death, and all events in between. The whole pageant of human life-joy, anger, sorrow and delight-is played out against this time-honored backdrop.

Although mainly devoted to business, Tihua St. does have space for a few houses, ranging from traditional Chinese to modern Western style. Most of the traditional houses are at the back of the first section of the street, with verandas at the front. In the front hall, the store owner usually can be found tending to his business. The area at the back, called "hou lao," contains a sacrificial table, and is used as residential accommodation.

Buildings in this style usually have three living rooms and two courtyards. Some have small gardens which enhance their antique beauty. Although they are more than 100 years old, these wooden houses still stand erect.

During the reign of Kuanghsu in the Ching Dynasty, many Western style houses were built with red bricks. Later, after the Japanese occupied the island, they were covered over with white paint, and relief decorations were placed on the balustrades, pillars and eaves. Today, these decorations can still be found on many houses, providing an interesting blend of Western and Oriental styles.

Most of the businessmen on Tihua St. are millionaires. Combining conservatism with shrewdness, they are always ready to bargain. Unfortunately, many of the traders in the area, like the old buildings, have been unable to resist the encroachments of modern civilization. As trading patterns change, and the centers of Taipei's commerce move to other areas, it is likely that the business of Tihua St. will continue to change in order to ensure its survival.

[Picture Caption]

1. Tihua Street is the oldest street in the metropolis of Taipei which is still intact. It was the largest trading center in Taiwan about a century ago. 2. The present Tihua Street is dotted with Western style buildings. 3. & 4. The alleys originally designed for rickshaws are so narrow that they are designated as one-way roads today.

1. A century ago, merchant boats sailed along the banks of the Tamsui River, which is close to Tihua Street. 2. Religious parades can still be seen in Tihua Street today. 3. Roof in classical Chinese style in Tihua Street. 4. Another scene featuring old architecture. 5. Hsiahai Cheng Huang Temple, though small in size, has a large following. 6. Daily commodities line up along the long arched covered walkways of Tihua Street.

1. The Chinese medicine stores use rope and baskets to transport raw materials to be stored in the attic. 2. Chinese herbal medical materials being sliced before use. 3. Medicines are placed in numerous small drawers and porcelain bottles. 4. Some new-style shops store their medicines in glass bottles. 5. Tihua Street, once known as a center for cloth shops, are doing retail as well as wholesale trade.

Tihua Street is one of the few places in Taipei where wooden chopping boards (1 & 2), and wooden tubs (3 & 4) are on sale. 5. & 6. Groceries stocked with all kinds of commodities are another feature of Tihua Street.

1. Shops selling sacrificial items used by Buddhists. 2. A girl embroidering a tablecloth for a credence table. 3. A shop selling incense and sacrificial papers is hidden away in a corner of Tihua Street. 4. Statue of the god Taitzeyeh. 5. The statue of the most popular earth god.

The present Tihua Street is dotted with Western style buildings.

The alleys originally designed for rickshaws are so narrow that they are designated as one-way roads today.

The alleys originally designed for rickshaws are so narrow that they are designated as one-way roads today.

A century ago, merchant boats sailed along the banks of the Tamsui River, which is close to Tihua Street.

Religious parades can still be seen in Tihua Street today.

Roof in classical Chinese style in Tihua Street.

Another scene featuring old architecture.

Hsiahai Cheng Huang Temple, though small in size, has a large following.

Daily commodities line up along the long arched covered walkways of Tihua Street.

The Chinese medicine stores use rope and baskets to transport raw materials to be stored in the attic.

Chinese herbal medical materials being sliced before use.

Medicines are placed in numerous small drawers and porcelain bottles.

Some new-style shops store their medicines in glass bottles.

Tihua Street, once known as a center for cloth shops, are doing retail as well as wholesale trade.

Tihua Street is one of the few places in Taipei where wooden chopping boards.

Tihua Street is one of the few places in Taipei where wooden chopping boards.

and wooden tubs （3 & 4） are on sale.

and wooden tubs （3 & 4） are on sale.

Groceries stocked with all kinds of commodities are another feature of Tihua Street.

Groceries stocked with all kinds of commodities are another feature of Tihua Street.

Shops selling sacrificial items used by Buddhists.

A girl embroidering a tablecloth for a credence table.

A girl embroidering a tablecloth for a credence table.

A shop selling incense and sacrificial papers is hidden away in a corner of Tihua Street.

Statue of the god Taitzeyeh. 5. The statue of the most popular earth god.