The streets of Hualien present a scene much like that of many other small Taiwanese cities--crowded with traffic, neon signs, restaurants and retail stores. But lift up your head and at once appears a breath-taking backdrop--undulating green mountains steeped in mist--which, even in the midst of all the heat and hubbub, can make you feel removed far away to some deep secluded mountain valley.

Turn around and walk twenty minutes in the other direction and what appears before your eyes is the vast Pacific, with its cool sea breezes and turbulent breakers white with foam.

The city, with a population of around 100,000 and an area of 29 square kilometers, is perhaps not as flashy as one might expect for a county capital and the largest city on the east coast. Hualien's beauty is of a more natural kind: The green mountains behind it, the ocean in front, a clear stream running through its midst and the bright blue sky above.

These beautiful surroundings have not only inspired authors, artists and songwriters to use the city as a setting in their works, they have also attracted many tourists from around the island and overseas. But all too many visitors have made Hualien only a stopover on the way to fishing in Carp Lake, rafting on the Hsiukuluan River, admiring Taroko Gorge or enjoying some other nearby recreation area in Hualien County. They overlook the more quiet attractions of Hualien city itself.

To appreciate what makes the city special, it helps to know some history first. According to a Ching dynasty gazetteer, "Taiwan is surrounded on four sides by sea; tall mountains extend from the north to the south. To the west our people live mixed with the indigenous people; to the east live only the indigenous people."

"Our people" refers, of course, to the Chinese from the mainland who opened up the island from south to north over the course of several centuries. The area "behind the mountains" to the east, difficult to traverse, was left largely to the aborigines, three of whose seven main eastern tribes still inhabit the mountains around Hualien: the T'aiya, Punung and Amei peoples.

Hualien, of course, wasn't called that at first. The aborigines called the area Auchilai and Chungyau. The Portuguese named it Rio de Ouro. The Spaniards gave it their own name early in the next century. Mainland Chinese were the last to arrive. A late seventeenth century explorer records how he and seven companions, sleeping by day and traveling by night, passed by indigenous tribes, trekked over myriads of maintains and came at last of the shores of the Pacific.

It was not, in fact, until the mid-nineteenth century that Chinese pioneers began to arrive here in large numbers, led by two daring men who are now worshipped in a local temple alongside Koxinga, the seventeenth century hero. These early settlers, impressed by the turbulent Pacific, called the place Huilan, or rolling billows. It was the revered official Shen Pao-chen who changed the name in the late nineteenth century to Hualien, or flower-lotus.

He was also the first to open up transportation to the area by building a coastal road that has since been developed into a major highway. Air, rail and sea links have been added, with the completion of the North Link Railway in 1980 reducing train travel time from Taipei to under three hours.

Families of the earliest settlers in Hualien go back at most four generations. But the definition of a real "Hualiener" is very broad. The aborigines are doubtless the earliest ones, but most of them now live in neighboring mountains villages. Second generation residents from the west, although they may maintain "but my grandfather is from Miaoli," must also be included. While the many retired servicemen and government workers who have moved here in recent years have become "old Hualieners" in their own right.

A genuine Hualiener, too, is Chu Shaochieh, originally from Anhwei Province on the mainland, who married a Hualien girl and took over the production of a popular sweet cake made only by his wife's family. So too is Yang Kun-feng, who came here in 1949 from Nanking, became fascinated with the area's strangely shaped rocks and now collects and sells them for a living. And so are the dedicated foreign missionaries engaged in charity work who are also considered full-fledged members of the Hualien family.

Perhaps because of its late development, diverse population and relaxed atmosphere, Hualien residents are noted for their tolerance, openness and friendliness to strangers. Visitors who have lived here for any length of time are eager to introduce the place to their friends from the big city back home. They may well begin a first tour by taking an early morning stroll by the Meilun River, whose clear waters wind peacefully through the center of town. Away from the river, marble sidewalks covered with bright red petals from spreading phoenix trees add a distinctive touch. Another typical tree here is the breadfruit, whose tasty fruit provides a favorite summer treat.

A trip to Hualien must include a visit to the ocean. Watching the waves is a popular local pastime. Eight new parks have recently been opened along the coast, their green grass, oceanfront views and tall palm trees reminiscent of Hawaii.

Dusk means a trip to the "twilight market" south of the city, where crowds of people sample tidbits, browse and bargain at over 500 vendor stalls, the most unusual of which perhaps are the aborigine stands, specializing in foods, herbs and handicrafts from the mountains. Evening calls for a visit to the downtown market, Hualien's nighttime gathering spot, noted for its roadside entertainers and midnight snacks, including the famous "suping" cakes (see pictures).

Botany Instructor Ch'en Shih-chang of Hualien Teachers College decided to move here after just such a visit four or five years ago on his college graduation trip. Besides meeting like-minded friends and settling down with his wife and children, he is excited about being chosen by the college to study overseas: "At the time I just liked it here pure and simple; I never expected the rewards to come so fast or to be so great."

But the ideal future for most young people in Hualien is still to go west. A local reporter points out, "When they built the North Link Railway, everyone thought it would bring in investors from the west. But the result was just the opposite-it carried off our young people."

Hualien County Magistrate Wu Shoeiyun says, "There's no hiding the fact that the east falls short of the west in educational opportunities, family income and living standards." He thinks appealing to family feelings to hold back Hualien's youth is not the right approach. "Shouldn't we rather make use of our resources to build a more attractive and developing environment and bring them back that way instead?"

People thought at first of using tourism to develop Hualien's potential. If it didn't bring investors, the North Link Railway did at least bring more tourists, over a million a year. But the tourist industry soon discovered that too many were "day-trippers." How to keep them more than one night became the real test.

Young and energetic Mayor Ch'en Ch'ing-shui has come up with a way to give the city a fresh look: By using waste marble to pave sidewalks, make sculptures and decorate walls and buildings, he hopes to create a beautiful city of marble. The mayor further envisions a marine museum and an ocean recreation area with swimming, surfing and sailing. Developing industry, founding a university and exploiting the area's abundant marble resources have long been cherished ambitions of Hualien residents. Magistrate Wu frequently invites successful ex-Hualieners to return for discussions and plan strategy.

But, as at least one Hualiener in the north admits, ex-Hualieners don't seem to form economic power blocs like those of exresidents from some other cities. Hualieners are more preponderant in academic and professional circles. Like the local water buffalo, the typical Hualiener, he says, is "down to earth, hard working, loyal and nostalgic for home."

(Peter Eberly)

[Picture Caption]

"Flying Eagle" by Yang Ying-feng, a marble sculpture at the entrance to Hualien Airport.

Beautiful Meilun River meanders peacefully through the city.

Sitting by the seaside is a favorite local pastime. These old-timers are watching the expansion of Hualien harbor.

Rice--the main ingredient in a Hualien specialty, suping cakes.

Most of the cakes are made by hand in family bakeries. This young lady is wrapping peanut supings.

A suping oven.

Breadfruit, a favorite Hualien treat, not yet ripe.

Mr. and Mrs. Chu Shao-chieh, exclusive proprietors of shach'ima sweetcakes. Left is their wedding picture of 29 years ago. Above is the couple today.

A master craftsman makes a marble vase. The water spray reduces heat.

Local sculptor Lin Ts'ung-hui at work in his backyard. He likes Hualien's freshness and quiet.

Students at Hualien Teachers College playing the flute by a petal-strown path.

Chatting in the shade on a summer afternoon.

Beautiful Meilun River meanders peacefully through the city.

Sitting by the seaside is a favorite local pastime. These old-timers are watching the expansion of Hualien harbor.

Sitting by the seaside is a favorite local pastime. These old-timers are watching the expansion of Hualien harbor.

Rice--the main ingredient in a Hualien specialty, suping cakes.

Most of the cakes are made by hand in family bakeries. This young lady is wrapping peanut supings.

A suping oven.

Breadfruit, a favorite Hualien treat, not yet ripe.

Mr. and Mrs. Chu Shao-chieh, exclusive proprietors of shach'ima sweetcakes. Left is their wedding picture of 29 years ago. Above is the couple today.

Mr. and Mrs. Chu Shao-chieh, exclusive proprietors of shach'ima sweetcakes. Left is their wedding picture of 29 years ago. Above is the couple today.

A master craftsman makes a marble vase. The water spray reduces heat.

Local sculptor Lin Ts'ung-hui at work in his backyard. He likes Hualien's freshness and quiet.

Students at Hualien Teachers College playing the flute by a petal-strown path.

Chatting in the shade on a summer afternoon.