The art of Chinese cookery goes back to the time of Confucius (479 B.C.). Over the millennia, varied cooking styles developed in three geographic regions located along three main rivers: 1) The Yellow River region covers the North, including Peiping, Shantung and Honan. 2) The Yangtze River region encompasses Szechuan, Hunan and all the way through Kiangsu and Chekiang. 3) The Chu River region including Kwangtung, Kwanghsi and Fukien.
In 1949, many Chinese from the mainland migrated to Taiwan. Bringing with them their own style of cooking. Since then, Taipei, has become the capital of Chinese cuisine. We introduce to you restaurants of six distinct schools of haute cuisine. Pastry and tidbits (poorly translated as dim-sum in Chinatowns abroad) will be covered in another article.
Kiangsu and Chekiang (Kiangche)
Kiangche cuisine is known for its elaboration and fineness, a fruition of the regional abundance of meat, herbal and seafood products. Notable dishes are Jellied Pork of Chengchiang, Shark's Fins with Crab Meat, and Wine flavoured Chicken Wings. Chef Ch'eng Cheng-li of the Tienfulou (Tower of heavenly blessings) restaurant complains that many essential ingredients are not immediately available here, but "an ingenious chef knows how to improvise while preserving the original flavours of dishes." The Hsuhsiang-yuan (a discourse over flavours) boasts of Sandwiched Yellow Fish, Glossed Lobster, Playing Dragon (shark fin) and Gaming Phoenix (chicken). The shark's fins dish must be ordered well in advance, for the fin itself takes two days to "rest" in liquid and three days for marinating. "Sandwiched Yellow Fish" says Chef Chang Shun-kuan, with a beaming that relies on careful control of the fire and on deft cutting of the fish." The Beggar's Chicken of Tienfulou is of course no longer cooked in its primitive and squalid locale. A "native chicken" (local breed, set free and fed in grain fields) is slaughtered and cleaned, marinated in a mixture of soybean sauce, sugar, salt, ginger, scallion and wine, wrapped in suet to keep the moisture, further coated with a large piece of lotus leave and finally sealed in an even layer of wet mud. Then, the bird is thrown into a clay oven of low heat for four hours. When it is cracked open in the presence of all guests.
Hunan and Szechuan
Early Hunan dishes were served on earthenware with enormous chopsticks, but were innovations by creative cooks to suit the taste of non-Hunanese. Perhaps the most well-known Hunan chef is Peng Chang-kwei who started his apprenticeship at the age of twelve. After coming to Taiwan, Peng realized that his famous dishes for the rich were no longer practicable. "So I resorted to improvising and inventing new dishes for the common man," he says. One of his inventions is Chicken in a Bamboo Cup, composed of minced chicken (or squab), pork, fat, water chestnuts, fresh scallops and peppers formed into balls, then placed in a bamboo cup before steaming. The bamboo cup can be replaced with a Chinese musk melon or a honey dew melon.
According to legend, Peng's Bean Curd was a result of haste. A hungry guest arrived late and asked the chef to cook some bean curd with a random choice of hot spices. When the steaming bubbly dish was put on the table, the flavours not only tickled the palate of the guest but also aroused the interest of his neighbours. A dozen orders of such toufuwere immediately passed on to the kitchen. The next day a swarm of gastronomes knocked on the door demanding "the kind of toufu we heard about." Not surprisingly, Peng's Bean Curd has stayed on the menu ever since.
Szechuan cooking tends to "numb" the tongue. Typical dishes are String Beans Fried Dry, Shredded Pork with Seafood Spices and Ma Po Bean Curd. The Fuhsing (blessing star) and the Lienan (altogether peaceful) are the more famous of the Szechuan restaurants. Wang Kuan-fu, proprietor of Fuhsing says "both quality and prices must be standardized, or else the guests would not be interested in coming again." His specialties include Squid Rolls, Lamb Shreds-Home Made and Roast Vegetable Squares. Lienan serves such dishes as Scallop Souffle, Dragon Fish under Roast Beans and many others.
Peiping
Even though Peiping was the ancient capital of centuries, it does not enjoy a reputation of its own cuisine, except for Roast Duck and a few other delicacies. Most of its chefs came from Shantung province. The key to Peking cookery is the perfect control of heat. Fish Slices with Tzao Sauce, Braised Sea Cucumbers with Shrimp Caviare are but two samples. Taoranting (pavilion of poetic leisure) boasts of having doggedly preserved traditions while charging reasonable prices. Its Roast Duck is no longer at the mercy of the weather. A drying chamber is set up to dry the bird, then, air is blown through a tube to separate the skin from the flesh. Before roasting, layers of spices and a light syrup are brushed on the skin.
Sungchulou (tower of bamboo) offers Peiping's traditional Old Toufu, Sea Cucumber Rolls, Steamed Dragon Fish, Fire Pot of Motley Colours and others. Old Toufu starts with having bean curd skinned, steamed two hours and stewed in chicken broth for eight hours.
Kwantung
Cantonese cuisine is known for being less oily and for its milder flavours. The Hungpaoshih (Ruby) is famous for its Pomegranate Chicken, Prawan Broiled Alive, Treasure of Ribs and Beef Rolls and the Great Fortune of Abalone in Oyster Sauce (cost: NT$5,000, a great fortune indeed).
The Fenglinhsiaokuan (Eatery of Maple) presents Shrimp Braised with Salted Garlic, Chicken Cubes Sauted in Paper Wraps, Duck Fried with Taro Stuffing, Crispy Toufu and Chicken Flavoured with Lemon.
Taiwan
As Taiwan is surrounded and relies so much on the sea, just about every feast or home-made dinner on the island is replete with fish, shrimp, crab and shelled creatures from the waters.
The Chingyeh (tender leaves) attracts eaters who suddenly feel hungry late at night. Its Rice Soup with Sweet Potato, Squid Rolls, Pork Stewed Red and Buddha Leaps over the Wall are all served in small portions.
Taiwanhsiaotiao (Taiwan melodies) serves Abalone with Phoenix, Whole Chicken from the Clay Kiln and Grilled Toufu. The last chef Lin Ching-hsin says, "watching a beef steak being grilled in a restaurant inspired the last dish. I suddenly thought, why not make Toufu like a steak on the grill--a sizzling, smoky toufu dish?"
Muslim
No muslim kitchen has either pork or liquor. Beef and lamb are the order of the day. The Niuchia-chuang (cottage of cattle) probably serves the only Lamb Snatched by Hand in town and other authentic muslim courses such as Beef from the Grill.
The above-mentioned restaurants and dishes are but a fragmentary introduction to Chinese cuisine in Taipei. Try them--or, better yet, ask your Chinese friends about them when you venture on the path of Chinese culinary adventure.
Bon appetit!
(Shih Ying)
[Picture Caption]
Kiangche cuisine is renowned for its delicate and beautiful dishes. The Hsuhsiangyuan's specialties include: 1. Glossed Lobster, is wrapped in cellophane paper and deep fried at low temperature; and 2. Delicious Broiled Fishhead. 3. The main ingredients of the dish Playing Dragon Gaming Phoenix are seaweed, peapod tips, and scallops. 4. Sandwiched Yellow Fish is made with sliced yellow fish, green vegetables, ham, seaweed, and is deep fried.
1. The Hsuhsiangyuan Kiangche Restaurant is famous for its Shark's Fin Soup. Tienfulou Restaurant's specialties; 2. Spicy Pig's Feet; 3. Peacock Combination Cold Plate, made from selected spicy meats. 4. Peng's Hunan-Style Restaurant's elegant Chinese-style decoration and creative dishes attract many guests. 5. Peng Chang-kwei, the owner of Pengyuan, is known as the "father of Taiwan's Hunan-style cuisine." 6. Beef a la Viceroy; 7.Minced Meat in Honeydew Cup; and 8. Lobster-Chicken Combination.
Fortune Szechuan Restaurant specializes in: 1. Steamed Assorted Vegetables with Abalone; 2. Fried Minced Pidgeon; and 3. Deep Fried Crispy Scallops. 4. A striking night view of the Fortune Restaurant. 5. Three-Flavored Pumpkin. 6. Sauteed Lamb's Tripe. 7. Celery Salad. 8. Fried Squid and Cuttlefish.
Lienan Szechuan Restaurant's specialties include: 1. Rose Assorted Cold Plate; 2. Dragon Fish under Roast Beans. 3. Scallop Souffle's main ingredients are ham, scallops and water chestnuts. 4. Beef with Dry Red Peppers. 5. Chef Wei Cheng-hsuan at work.
Taoranting's Northern-Style Restaurant features: 1. Sweet and Sour Boneless Fish; 3. P'i P'a Bean Curd; and 5. Crispy golden brown Peiping Duck, which goes well with sweetened soybean paste and onions wrapped in Chinese pancakes. Sungchulou Northern-Style Restaurant's famous dishes include: 2. Fire Pot of Motley Colors; and 4. Sea Cucumber Rolls.
Featured dishes at Ruby's Cantonese-Style Restaurant: 1. Treasure of Ribs and Beef; 4. Prawn Broiled Alive; 6. Pomegranate Chicken; and 7. Great Fortune of Abalone in Oyster Sauce. Favorites at Fenglinhsiaoyuan Cantonese-Style Restaurant include: 2. Duck Fried with Taro Stuffing; 3. Shrimp Braised with Salted Garlic; and 5. Chicken Cubes Sauted in Paper Wraps.
Chingyeh special dishes: 2. Braished Pork in Soy Sauce; 3. Salted Yolk Shrimp Roll; 4. Rice Soup with Sweet Potatoes; and 7. Pork Stewed Red. Taiwanhsiaotiao's favorites are: 1. Grilled Tofu Stuffed with Meat; 5. Mashed Taro Rice Cakes; and 6. Braised Pork Rice with Taiwan-style noodles.
The Niuchiachuang Muslim Restaurant features the following Muslim dishes: 1. Combination Plate; 2. Lamb Snatched by Hand; and 3. Beef from the Grill.
2. Delicious Broiled Fishhead.
3. The main ingredients of the dish Playing Dragon Gaming Phoenix are seaweed, peapod tips, and scallops.
4. Sandwiched Yellow Fish is made with sliced yellow fish, green vegetables, ham, seaweed, and is deep fried.
1. The Hsuhsiangyuan Kiangche Restaurant is famous for its Shark's Fin Soup. Tienfulou Restaurant's specialties;.
3. Peacock Combination Cold Plate, made from selected spicy meats.
4. Peng's Hunan-Style Restaurant's elegant Chinese-style decoration and creative dishes attract many guests.
5. Peng Chang-kwei, the owner of Pengyuan, is known as the "father of Taiwan's Hunan-style cuisine.".
7.Minced Meat in Honeydew Cup; and.
8. Lobster-Chicken Combination.
Fortune Szechuan Restaurant specializes in: 1. Steamed Assorted Vegetables with Abalone;.
2. Fried Minced Pidgeon; and.
3. Deep Fried Crispy Scallops.
4. A striking night view of the Fortune Restaurant.
5. Three-Flavored Pumpkin.
8. Fried Squid and Cuttlefish.
Lienan Szechuan Restaurant's specialties include: 1. Rose Assorted Cold Plate;.
2. Dragon Fish under Roast Beans.
3. Scallop Souffle's main ingredients are ham, scallops and water chestnuts.
4. Beef with Dry Red Peppers.
5. Chef Wei Cheng-hsuan at work.
Lienan Szechuan Restaurant's specialties include: 1. Rose Assorted Cold Plate;.
3. Scallop Souffle's main ingredients are ham, scallops and water chestnuts.
2. Dragon Fish under Roast Beans.
4. Beef with Dry Red Peppers.
5. Chef Wei Cheng-hsuan at work.
2. Duck Fried with Taro Stuffing;.
3. Shrimp Braised with Salted Garlic; and.
5. Chicken Cubes Sauted in Paper Wraps.
Featured dishes at Ruby's Cantonese-Style Restaurant: 1. Treasure of Ribs and Beef;.
6. Pomegranate Chicken; and.
7. Great Fortune of Abalone in Oyster Sauce. Favorites at Fenglinhsiaoyuan Cantonese-Style Restaurant include:.
Chingyeh special dishes: 2. Braished Pork in Soy Sauce.
3. Salted Yolk Shrimp Roll;.
4. Rice Soup with Sweet Potatoes; and.
Taiwanhsiaotiao's favorites are: 1. Grilled Tofu Stuffed with Meat.
5. Mashed Taro Rice Cakes; and.
6. Braised Pork Rice with Taiwan-style noodles.
The Niuchiachuang Muslim Restaurant features the following Muslim dishes: 1. Combination Plate;.
2. Lamb Snatched by Hand; and.
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