Charms to Keep Evil at Bay

Amulets come in many and varied forms, and are very widespread, but in Taiwan the greatest number can be found in the Anping district of Tainan City. If you go treasure-hunting in the streets and alleys near Zeelandia fortress, look closely at the tile-roofed old-style houses, and you will be sure to make some fresh discoveries:

Behind a half-open gate, a screen wall painted with a foaming sea, a dragon and two large fish stands in front of the well.

Passing another family's home, we glimpse a screen topped with halberds planted in the center of the courtyard.

Around a comer, a lion, gripping a sword between its teeth, fixes you with eyes of fire from the gabled end wall of a house.

For all-round protection, a residence further on not only has its roof decorated with a "windlion" figure, a crockery bowl and a stove but also has a screen wall outside.

Probably the most common type of amulet is a lion's head carved on a wooden panel, hung on the lintel over the front door. Its simple, mottled colors and stern features stand guard over the entrance day and night, keeping evil at bay.

Regrettably, as time goes by, one traditional house after another is falling victim to redevelopment. Each new block which goes up marks an old dwelling torn down and signals the gradual disappearance of these spiritual symbols of the old life and ways.

The owner of one old wooden house, no longer willing to put up with rotting sills and doorposts, had his home rebuilt; but although he no longer used wood as a material, he retained the original upper halves of the walls, along with the lion's-head panel over the doorway, achieving not a bad compromise in keeping alive the traditional folk customs and beliefs.

Next time you go to Zeelandia, why not take time to wander through the little streets and alleys nearby? Perhaps you will make some pleasant, surprising discoveries!

Set in an outside wall facing down a street, a lion with a sword in its mouth keeps the peace.

A screen painted with a foaming sea, a dragon and two fish stands guard over a family's well, forming an integral part of everyday life.

A gable bears an amulet, providing psychological protection against harm.

A rare combination: a "wind-lion" figure, a bowl and a stove together on one roof.

A tiger on a tile keeps a home safe.

Even a vase can keep evil at bay.

On the lintel over a doorway, the eight trigrams of a Pakua symbol radiate power, barring entry to ghosts and demons.

As old homes are gradually replaced, lion's-head panels and other amulets are becoming rarer and rarer.