After the Yushan Scenic Highway, called the New Central Cross-Island Highway, officially opened to traffic in January of this year, the number of travellers to the Tatachia Recreation Area, within the Yushan National Park, rose dramatically. Taking for example the three-day New Year holiday and the five-day Chinese New Year holiday, there were 13,000 and 28,000 visitors respectively. The Yushan National Park Management Office conservatively estimates that this year the number of travellers will reach one million. No wonder the mass media describes this spot as "running a travel fever."

The scope of the Tatachia scenic area goes east from the Yushan Scenic Highway extending to the entrance to the mountain climbing area of Yushan-- the Tatachia Saddle. Within the zone lie the Lulin Forward Mountain, Lulin Mountain, and Linchih Mountain, which are all about 2,800 meters above sea level. The average height of the scenic area ranges from 2,500 to 2,800 meters.

Via the Yushan Scenic Highway, going westward, one can link up with the 20-km distant Alishan Recreation Area. To the north you can reach Shuili Rural Township. No matter from which side one goes up the mountain, this scenic highway has much to offer.

Besides delightful scenery, the easiest thing to notice along the way are the changes in the flora. Driving a car along the highway, gradually climbing up, if you discover that the tree leaves are mostly densely packed broad leaves, then you are still below 1,000 meters. If squeezed in among the leaves, there are long and sharp needles, then you are at about 1,500 meters, and it is a mixed deciduous-evergreen forest. If the trees all look like Christmas trees, then you are already above 2,000 meters.

The route from Shuili to Yushan follows along the Chenyoulan Stream, and the Shalihsien Stream, upstream parts of the Chuoshui Stream. Along theroute up the mountain you can see steep-cliffed gorges cut by the streams, as well as aboriginal villages. For example, on the tableland in the vicinity of where the Chenyoulan and Shalihsien streams cross, there are three settlements comprising Tungpu Village. The middle one, packed with tourist hotels, is the Tungpu Hot Springs Area. The Bunung aborigines of Tungpu are very familiar with the Yushan area and they are Taiwan's finest sherpas.

On the Chiayi-Yushan road one can follow the famous Tsengwen Stream cutting through the mountains twisting westward. The Tsao people villages of Tapang and Tefuye exist sleepily on the side of the stream. If you happen to be there on August 15 for the Harvept Festival, then you can stop along the way in these two villages to listen to the music that Cloud Gate Ensemble founder Lin Huai-min has described as "the sound of Heaven," and observe the rites.

Sung Mei-chi, a guide for the Yushan National Park Management Office, says that along the mountain walls of the two scenic highways you can discover twisting rock veins and folds of varying dark and light colors. She explains that these are rock layers piled one on top of another. Under the surface of the earth, under high temperatures and high pressure, because the hardness is variable, they become twisted and uneven. The light color is sandstone, while the deep color is shale.

After arriving in Tatachia, one can first see a multi-media slide introduction and photos of plants and animals in the tourist center. Later you can pick up a publication--a guide pamphlet, a "What You Need To Know" brochure--or buy a travellers' handbook, Animals of Yushan, or Butterflies of Yushan, and so on, and then go take your first steps deeper into the vicinity. How much one gets spiritually, cognitively, and in wisdom depends on how much time and effort the traveller spends in the area.

The simplest method is just to carry some water and dry food and spend half a day or a day doing a self-guided tour of Linchih or Lulin, which are mountains of relatively moderate slope.

Starting on the small road across from the Tungpu Parking Area, follow the small asphalt path forward. After about half an hour you will reach an intersecting path. At the side of the road are some hundred year-plus old hemlock spruces still thriving. Following the signs, walk toward the east slope of Lulin mountain, and you will see a stretch of withered stumps. These trees have died because of fire or insect infestation, but the trunks refused to collapse. After passing through winds and rain, the tree bark was stripped away, so that the trees were left as only naked white wood. It is commonly called the "White Wood Forest." Next to these withered old trees, several pines and spruces have grown--it's nature's changing of the guard.

Go to the peak of Linchih Mountain or Lulin Mountain and have a look around; this is the finest place for observing the central belt of Taiwan's mountain system. That really tall mountain is Yushan--at 3,952 meters it is East Asia's highest peak. On the left is Yushan North Peak, and in front there is Little South Mountain, with Kuan Mountain to the right. The ridge line rises and falls, stretching over a vast distance, majestic as billowing waves. It seems that you could just reach out and touch it . . . .

Taiwan's vertical height is nearly 4,000 meters. According to geographic theory, in terms of the changes in climate and vegetation, it is roughly equivalent to going from Taipei 4,000 km north to Heilongchiang. You can see that much change here in a day, which is nothing less than miraculous.

For most people, just seeing East Asia's tallest peak is worth the price of admission. But if you are a real traveller, you won't turn around now, because there are even more delightful things to come.

In the afternoon in the mountain area, you can often see the mountain mists rising up from the stream gorges. And after a short time, they sweep the whole area and add the taste of water vapor to the air. According to long-term observations, during the summer, at about 2︰00 PM, the Tatachia area will see fog about 80% of the time. That is because the heat at the surface forces air to rise. Upon meeting the cooler air of the mountains, it condenses into water vapor and becomes fog.

Most travellers feel disoriented when they see the fog, and are likely to head for home. But if you can just be a little patient, you can have a look at the "cloud sea." At about four in the afternoon, when the heat dissipates, the cloud layer will sink. There's no harm in finding a nice place to sit to watch the cloud sea roll by. The face of the cloud sea can change many times in a minute, and later gradually becomes dyed with red -- it is beautiful beyond description.

When the sun goes behind the mountains, it's time to look for a place to rest your doggies. The nearest residential area is the Tungpu Villa. Unfortunately, during winter and summer vacation, it is mostly booked solid for China Youth Corp sorganized camps. Thus many people pitch tents by the villa to pass the night; at least it's a little easier to get water. Otherwise you have to stay in the Alishan area twenty kilometers away.

The Yushan National Park Management Office says that because Tatachia is not a general recreation area, they do not provide any place to stay in order to minimize destruction to the scenery.

When the curtain of night has fallen, the stars of the constellations shine in the night sky. Find a place that has not been "blinded by the light," and lay back and quietly contemplate. Those versed in astronomy can put their knowledge to use distinguishing the different constellations. For those who don't understand astronomy, just watching for the occasional shooting star is fun enough.

If you gaze at the countless glimmering stars for a long time, you will feel yourself becoming one with the earth, and the stars feel closer and closer . . . .

The next day, get up early to watch the sun rise. Watch as pieces of the sun leap through the mountains--it is in every way a match for the famous Alishan sunrise.

According to Peng Jen-chieh, director of the Tatachia Visitors' Center, in both early morning and evening, when there are few cars on the road, if you are lucky, you might be able to see groups of Formosan Rock Monkeys scrounging food or playing in the area from the Shihshan Service Center to the Hsuehfeng guard post. According to a survey of the Yushan Management Office, there might be five to eight groups of monkeys active in this area.However, if you want to see the monkeys, it's best to get out of your car and walk, because the sounds of the engine will scare them off.

Another unique national treasure in the Tatachia Area is the Formosan Salamander. These nocturnal amphibian tailed creatures are scattered in mountains above two thousand meters, living under damp, dark rocks or fallen trees. There are at present very very few Formosan Salamanders, so the traveller who is lucky enough to see them should be even more conscientious about protecting them.

Travellers armed with binoculars can see many high-altitude bird varieties, such as magpies, mynas, and owls. If you don't get to see them, you can just listen to the sounds of their calls, which will linger in your mind for a long time.

Walking in the neighboring mountain area, if you are a little attentive, you can discover many petrified shells in the ground. This is because Taiwan was originally on the ocean floor and only arose later because of geologic movements which created mountains. The shells were carried upwards and became petrified.

For the more ambitious traveller, if you have prepared adequately, you can spend two or three days climbing Yushan. The journey offers another kind of perspective.

Faced with the pressure of growing numbers of tourists, the Yushan Management Office, in charge of this "feverish" travel spot, continues to insist that the purpose behind the Tatachia Recreational Area is equal parts education, science, and leisure.Center director Peng Jen-chieh hopes that travellers will take account of this: "Besides photos, don't take anything, and don't leave anything either."

Notes:

If you want to go to the Tatachia Recreation Area, you can travel from Shuili to Hoshe to Yushan. The trip is about 74 kilometers. You can also go through Chiayi and Alishan to Yushan, a distance of 96 kilometers. If you want to use public transportation, the Yuanlin Bus Company runs one bus a day on the former route, while on the latter route you can ride the Taiwan Bus Company or the Chiayi Bus Company to Alishan, but from Alishan to Tatachia you must rent a vehicle yourself. At present, it is still easiest to go to Tatachia by driving yourself or taking a tour bus. It takes about two-and-a-half hours to get to the top of the mountain, and about two hours to come down. If you want to stop along the way to admire the view or take photos, you have to spend more time. Of the two, the Shuili-Yushan route is newer, so there are more fallen rocks and landslides, so you must pay special attention.

Besides the restaurant attached to the Visitors' Center, which sells boxed lunches and drinks, there is no place to get food in the whole area. Travellers had best bring dry food and drinking water, and bring the garbage back down the mountain with you to avoid creating pollution.

On holidays when there are many people, it is often hard to park, because there are not many spots in the designated parking areas. Sometimes casually parked vehicles create obstacles to traffic.

[Picture Caption]

The Tatachia Recreational Area is a "hot" place to travel.

The Management Office of the Yushan National Park designed a number of paths to guide travellers.

(Left)The Yushan Scenic Highway passes by clearly visible twisting geology.

On designated holidays, the Tatachia Recreation Area has guides posted at various places to serve travellers.

This beautiful plant is poisonous, so don't pick any!

Travellers following the explanatory signs for self-guided travel can enjoy themselves even more fully.

Observing the sunset and the sea of clouds, one can truly appreciate the "limitless beauty of sunset."

If your luck is running good, you might see owls, the Formosan Rock Monkey, the Formosan Salamander, or other rare animals in the Tatachia area. The photo is of an owl.

The Management Office of the Yushan National Park designed a number of paths to guide travellers.

（Left）The Yushan Scenic Highway passes by clearly visible twisting geology.

On designated holidays, the Tatachia Recreation Area has guides posted at various places to serve travellers.

This beautiful plant is poisonous, so don't pick any!

Travellers following the explanatory signs for self-guided travel can enjoy themselves even more fully.

Observing the sunset and the sea of clouds, one can truly appreciate the "limitless beauty of sunset.".

If your luck is running good, you might see owls, the Formosan Rock Monkey, the Formosan Salamander, or other rare animals in the Tatachia area. The photo is of an owl.