Riding Southern Rails--All Aboard the South Link Railway!

A spate of heavy rain that went on for several days drove away the bright and relentless appearance from eastern Taiwan's blue-green summer sky. But the rain could not drive away the passengers of the South Link Railway. In little groups, they carried water bottles and snack food, from inside the train excitedly counting tunnels, little bridges, and river valleys. From time to time they pointed to the mountain valleys, washed to an even deeper shade of jade green by the rain, and let forth exclamations at the mysterious gray-blue Pacific.

Whenever he passed a cave, a little child astraddle his father's shoulder clapped his hands and cried out happily. The little city child had few chances to experience a merry journey like the one in a children's song: "The train flies quickly, the train flies quickly, flies past tall mountains, flies past the fields ...."

"I've waited eleven years!" said Mr. Chen, who lives in Kaohsiung, as he viewed the scenery and ate his tsung tzu (a large dumpling of glutinous rice). He waited from his youth until middle age to fulfill one wish, to complete this railroad journey. The South Link Railway has certainly been long anticipated!

Since the South Link Railway began operation, its three hours of visual magnificence has attracted many passengers. During holidays a ticket is especially hard to find.

Final leg of the round-island rail net-work:

Eastern Taiwan, with its geography of complex changes, its views of human habitations, its rich produce, and its pleasing average climate of 27 degrees celsius, draws one into deeply exploring the island's "back garden." Long ago it gained prestige as a good area for touring.

Taitung, known in the Ching dynasty as the "back mountains," suffers from limited accessibility, though it compares favorably to Hwalien in tourism potential. Nevertheless, a report made by National Chengchi University professor Tu Ta-hsien points out that it is the city most rarely visited by foreign travelers who come to Taiwan.

Eastern Taiwan's inconvenient transportation is well-known, especially the railroad. Because the east is obstructed by the double barrier of the central mountain range and the coastal mountain range, beginning work on the railroad was extremely difficult. The earliest constructed stretch was a simple narrow gauge line from Hwalien to Taitung.

Also due to the inaccessibility of the roads, Taitung has been able to preserve its pristine, rustic and unpolluted visage. This year 21 year old beautician Lai Shu-fang, whose home is Chihpen, moved to Taipei to study her craft. After seven months in the capital, she fled back in defeat. She laughingly recalls, "In Taipei I could barely see the blue sky or the white clouds or the stars. I couldn't get used to it and quickly hurried back."

Of the nine aboriginal groups in Taiwan, six can be found in Taitung. Al l the different ethnic festivals and celebrations are sure to please, whether you want an authentic experience or a raucous time.

The train drags in a tide of tourists:

Nevertheless. the residents of eastern Taiwan are privileged to enjoy more convenient transportation. In 1980 the North Link Railway was completed, running from the north to the east to link the West Coast Railway Trunk Line with the Hwalien-Taitung Line. Continuing the construction process, work was begun on the South Link Railway, the final leg of the round-island rail network. Construction was extremely tough; only after eleven years, at the end of 1991, was the line completed.

When the South Link Railway was completed, not only was a life line opened up between eastern Taiwan and the outside world; a route for tourism was also forged. In the past, to go from the south to the east. one could either travel the South Link Highway, which skirts around the southern coast, or take the Southern Cross-Island Highway. But not only were these two routes tortuous and difficult to traverse, the journey was also rather long, at the least five hours. Often people grew tired, and their joy in travel was worn away.

In recent years air traffic has increased. From both Taipei and Kaohsiung, flight time to Taitung is less than one hour. This method is highly favored by tourists, but during holiday peak periods, even a single ticket is hard to acquire.

Today the South Link Railway has been completed. Its entire length is less than 100 kilometers (98.248 km), and the speedy trip takes at most three hours. The train is also smoother and more comfortable, making the journey much more relaxing and merry. The residents of Kaohsiung and Pingtung, for instance, enjoy the convenience of being situated close to the South Link Railway. Many like to take a simple day excursion, starting out in the morning in Kaohsiung and arriving in Taitung by noon. After lunch they can go sightseeing around the city or visit nearby recreational areas, and in the afternoon take a bus home.

Taitung County Commissioner Cheng Lieh points out that in the first half of this year the number of visitors has already surpassed 500,000 the total number of two years ago. The effects of the South Link Railway can certainly be seen.

Along with good scenery Taitung also offers treasures of the humanities. Changping, Chilin, and the Peinan ruins are all found here. But these archaeological sites are not open to the public every day. （photo by Vincent Chang）

A journey of bridges and tunnels:

Compared to the Southern Cross-Island Highway, the South Link Railway is smoother and more comfortable, to be sure. The view along its line is also certainly more fetching. Because it principally traverses the southeastern mountain region and the coast, it opens up a window to southeast Taiwan's lovely landscape.

If you take the train starting in Kaohsiung in the direction of Taitung, absolutely do not forget to choose a right hand seat. This way you will be able to see the beautiful coastal line. In the narrow space of eastern Taiwan, the Central Mountain Range, the Huatung Valley stretching north to south, the Coastal Mountain Range, and the long coast from Hwalien to Taitung are all lined up in a perfect row. Many rivers cut through the midst of all these.

Most striking is the stretch from Fangshan to Tawu, steep and precipitous as it draws near the coast. Deep blue sea water is stirred up in broken ripples as it mounts the coast in silver white lace. The bright blue sky and the pure white clouds produce the lucid experience of being in a universe of poetic inspiration!

Twisting around rivers, green mountains and verdant valleys, the railway accompanies the ample and profound Pacific in an interlude when it runs parallel to the coast, occasionally crossing paths with the coastal highway. The railway winds a circuitous path around the mountain peaks, ducking in and out between pitch black shadow and shimmering light. One must surely savor the memory of this moment of fascination.

The passengers usually open their eyes wide to stare at this point, as they catch a vision of the mountains that they just passed over. Suddenly a flash of deep blue waves appears in their eyes, like a painting in motion. No one would ever have suspected such an exhilarating surprise. The other source of pleasure along this stretch of line is the numerous bridges and tunnels.

Statistics inform us that the entire line contains 35 tunnels and 188 bridges. The Central Tunnel is the longest; situated between Tawu and Fangshan station, it extends to a length of eight kilometers. The fastest express train takes more than eight minutes to completely pass through it. Fortunately, all the train cars have lighting equipment; otherwise, everyone would have to stay on the alert for pickpockets!

One can imagine how arduous the construction of the railroad was. The soil of Tawu Mountain is loose, soft and given to collapsing. Excavation of the tunnels was particularly dangerous. At the side of the Kuchuang train depot stands a memorial plaque commemorating 17 construction workers who died on the job while boring tunnels. "Underneath several locations lie hot springs which gushed forth when holes were dug. Many of the workers were continually drenched by the hot waters while working over the course of many years, and many of them got sick because of this," a depot employee said.

（Left, right） The splendid coolness of autumn yields fruit of the season . In the famous Taitung City night market, one can enjoy eating delicious pomelos, custard apples and seafood. （photo by Ni Shu-yun）

Watermelon, mango, custard apple, lily:

Once the train passes Tawu, it forges ahead to the gates of Taitung. Tawu, located where the Central Mountain Range gives way to the Huatung Valley, was originally a remote country village. Early on motorists began to arrive as they circumnavigated the southeast coast of Taiwan. Many people grew accustomed to taking a rest here before moving on to Taitung, giving a break to both the people and the vehicles that had traveled so far. Eventually, they ushered in a prosperous market place, as well.

This village has also become a scenic demarcation point along the South Link Railway. Starting from this spot, the land gets progressively smoother and flatter. The farmland becomes more expansive, and crops begin to appear along the lines. The pebbly river beds are warm cradles for watermelons. The climate of Taitung county is dry, so the watermelons produced here are particularly sweet, and plump, as well. In midsummer, the dry valley is covered with a multitude of fat, cute melons. Taitung watermelons have a famous flavor, ample and juicy. In the fruit lane of the night market, a big one only costs NT$50, but once it is carried out side the village, it takes a great leap in price!

The slopes of the hills in the region are covered with many varieties of fruit trees. The train from time to time passes someone's orchard, and from the window one glimpses ripe mangoes. Growing bright red all over the branches, they can whet a strong craving.

July and August are the harvest season for the custard apple, Taitung's special produce. This area's fruit, compared with the produce of other regions in Taiwan, are fully two or three times larger. On either side of the highway, farmers often sell custard apples that they just plucked, fresh and cheap. A connoisseur instructed, "After you've bought some custard apples, don't put them in the refrigerator right away. Wait until they are soft, then eat them or freeze them: the flavor is the best!"

Because the farmland is large, the roadside rest spots are also numerous. Some visitors who have plenty of time will start from here and travel from point to point. Behind Tawu is the well-known Lily Mountain (Chinchen Shan) near Taimali. Lily flowers can be used as an edible vegetable. The lily is a common dish which can also be dried under the sun, just like mushrooms. Research by the Taitung District Agricultural Improvement Station shows that Taimali's mountains, at an approximate altitude of 800 meters, have a cool, arid climate and are very suitable for planting such cash crops.

Today Taimali has already become the principal growing region for lilies in Taiwan. Every year during the spring and autumn harvest seasons, the yellow-orange lily bulbs grow all over the mountains. After the lily flowers are picked, they still require processing. The residents of Taimali are accustomed to laying the lilies out in front of their houses or on top of their roofs to dry in the sun. The golden lilies can be seen spread forth along many a lane and alley, glistening under the rays of the sun.

With a pure and unblemished coast, Taitung has been called "Taiwan's Haw aii." （photo by Vincent Chang）

Slip into a hot spring:

Just to the south is Chihpen, famous for its hot springs. Early on in the era of Japanese occupation, Chihpen was an aboriginal dwelling place. The Japanese discovered, in the Chihpen stream between southern slopes of a mountain and the river bed, a natural hot spring, gushing out warm water. The water's temperature was moderate (between 45°and 56℃); it had a dense concentration of hydrogen ions (7% to 8%). This was a very good spring, colorless, odorless, and only slightly salty. It was said to be able to remove fatigue and to possess a medicinal effect upon rheumatism and nervous pain. And after the construction of a public bathing pool and hotel, the fame of the Chihpen hot springs by no means decreased. Visitors to eastern Taiwan rarely pass over this spot; it is second in popularity among tourists only to Taitung City.

According to observations by the Taitung County government, many visitors, after disembarking from the Taitung train station, immediately board tour buses or hotel shuttle buses that carry them directly to Chihpen. The local buses are quite convenient; every hour one or two public buses depart, and the trip takes less than an hour.

The recent completion of the South Link Railway has brought in even more business. The Hotel Royal Taipei, foreseeing the market potential, took the investment initiative and constructed a five star luxury resort hotel in the Chihpen hot spring area. Originally, they estimated that they could not earn back the initial capital investment within five years. No one suspected that after the hotel was unveiled at the end of last year, it would be continuously booked full; business is exceeding all expectations.

A single room for one night at the Hotel Royal Chihpen, however, costs NT$4000 (plus tax). Such fees can not be swallowed by ordinary folks. Don't despair, though, because the neighborhood also offers many normally priced hotels and lodges. And if your pockets are really empty, you can also give yourself a boil in a simple manner, bathing in the hot springs for NT$50. Give it a try; no need to stay the night in a hotel.

A special feature of the Chihpen hot springs is that the hotels not only provide a hot spring pool, but also offer an ultrasound massage bath. Furthermore, there is an outdoor natural springs bathing pool facility which uses water from both mountain springs and hot springs. When the weather is cloudless, and the breeze blows gently, soaking in a hot spring surrounded by a cluster of lofty peaks is surely living the contented life of the gods!

Chengkung and Fukang are Taitung's little fishing villages. A journey here can win you delicious seafood at a nice price.

Taiwan's Hawaii?

The nearby Chihpen Forest Recreational Area allows the usually sedentary to stretch their muscles a while. This recreational area, opened by the Provincial Forestry Administration, lies ten minutes away from the hot spring area by automobile. Bus services are available. The area presents a flower garden and a botanical garden displaying all varieties of plant life, conifers and bamboo plants being the most abundant. Besides affording an appreciation of the woodlands, this locale also has a picnic area and camping grounds.

After Chihpen, the train arrives at the New Taitung Station, last stop on the South Link Railway. The new station was constructed on the out skirts of Taitung to solve the problem of limited space inside Taitung City's old station to more easily shift and park cars. The old station, however, is in the heart of the city and still plays a pivotal role in transport. So after the train has stopped at the new station, one can still catch a ride back to the old station. The first time passengers have a chance to take this ride in reverse motion, they usually let out a cry at the fresh experience.

Back when the new station's grounds were being laid, a large pile of stone coffins and burial artifacts was accidentally dug up. Archaeological examination confirmed that these were legacies of the neolithic era. Because the site was located near to Peinan, it was christened the "Peinan prehistoric culture." Emergency excavation work was then undertaken.

For the time being, visitors can not view these artifacts, and the ruins are covered over by wild grass, but the government is planning to construct a museum and monument. They predict that four years from now it will be completely opened. By that time, visitors can add a root-seeking expedition to their itinerary, exploring the life of the region's original prehistorical inhabitants.

Taitung City has always been the heart of travel in eastern Taiwan. For many years it has had a distinctly aboriginal flavor. Taiwan has altogether nine separate aboriginal tribes, and Taitung is inhabited by six of them. Every year is full of the various tribes' festivals, making for a lively travel season. (See accompanying chart.)

Lily blossoms spread along the ground lend a poetic quality to Taimali.

Tasty delicacies in abundance:

Affected by the wave of modernization in recent years, the color of Taitung's aborigines has been gradually diluted. Making up for this lack is the pure and immaculate ocean scenery of the east coast, and Orchid Island and Green Island, both situated off Taiwan proper. Volcanic rocks cooled from lava explosions compose the structure of the 180 kilometer coastline, twisting in weird formations along the highway. Cliffs and unpredictable sands are everywhere. This stretch of road is highly favored by the more fanatical hikers and bicyclists. Sanhsientai, Little Yehliiu and the Cave of the Eight Immortals are all famous scenic spots along the route. The ocean floors around Green Island and Orchid Island, both situated off the Southern Coast, boast bountiful marine vistas and are rapidly becoming popular diving destinations.

While Taitung's tourism holds a promising prospect, Taitung City and vicinity have gradually changed their appearance. Large western style restaurants, KTVs and other such facilities generally ascribed to be "amusement centers" have one after the other reared their heads. The prosperity evident here is no less than in western Taiwan.

If you ask about snacks, the folks of Taitung may start counting with their fingers the number of spots to recommend: go to the corner of Fuchien Road and Chengchi Road for salty rice snacks; Kuangming Road for meatballs; the place near the Peinan service station serves truly excellent pig's blood soup; in Tungho Township, the Tungho meat buns are delicious but not too sweet.... That's right, Taitung's most famous northern style restaurant, "Togetherness House," has changed its name to "Great Home Aroma." It's diagonally across from the police station on Chungshan Road.

The seafood of Taitung is a flavor that must be tasted. Chengkung and Fukang have their own fishing harbor, an experimental fishery institute, and a wholesale/retail fish market. The seafood is fresh and sweet, the price reasonable. Fish fillet is the specialty of Chengkung. Visitors can buy some to eat at home or give it to friends. It tastes best added into miso soup or chilled tofu.

The water in Chihshang is particularly good, so the rice grown in the paddies there is memorably scrumptious. A lot of tourists might buy rice to take home, but perhaps the sushi is too delicious; buying sushi is just as good. In the market opposite the Taitung train station, many kinds of bright and beautiful sushi are for sale. You might as well buy a little to eat, or take it on the train as a snack.

Sitting in a South Link train car as it winds its way along the Pacificcoast, one can never fully appreciate the splendor of peak and sea.

Stations with tile style:

Taiwan island has many kinds of railroads. Besides the secondary lines with their particular travel appeal, most of the railways are mainly for the purpose of transport. The South Link Railway is a line for the benefit of both transportation and tourism. In the brand new train cars, rarely can passengers be seen dozing off; most have their eyes plucked wide open, gazing at the scenery. In the cars one also often glimpses young lovers accompanying each other, snuggling together close to the window. It is really like a scene from MTV. Too bad the lovable little line still has a few shortcomings to be mended.

The East Coast National Scenic Area Administration, which is responsible for planning the east coast's tourism resources, did not include the development of the railroads along the east coast in their agenda. At present, there is a shortage of connecting traffic facilities between the rail line and many scenic spots, which results in some inconvenience for those visitors who are not driving their own car.

Furthermore, this is a newly opened train line, and the stations along the way all look more like newly built apartment buildings. The walls are all covered with porcelain tiles. At first, because of the cost of land, all the stations were located far away from the center of the town. Several stations, including Taimali, Tawu and Kuchuang, are all situated on hillsides outside of town. If outside visitors want to get to the station on time for an early train trip, they must climb up a steep slope first thing in the morning. For those unaccustomed to hiking, this is quite an ordeal.

Many travelers like to spontaneously alight from the train along the line and spend time at many different spots. Unfortunately, the Taiwan Railway Administration has yet to design any ticketing services for passengers to freely disembark and reboard. Passengers are obliged to determine for themselves how much time they can remain at each location and acquire for themselves a seat on the next train. It is best to purchase your ticket for the next train right after disembarking, before going sightseeing.

On the other hand, many of the local people have taken this business enterprise in their own hands. Recently, nearby the Taitung train station one can find medium- and small-sized travel buses operated by travel agencies. The driver serves as a tour guide, taking tourists on a one-day expedition of the east coast. The trip will probably include visits to the Chulu cow farm, Chihpen, Hungyeh hot spring, and the major scenic spots of the east coast. For the independent traveler, it can be choice that saves both time and energy.

The South Link Railway was the last little worry in the round-island rail network. Now that it had been developed, might it not open up a new path for Taiwan's railroads?

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Since the South Link Railway began operation, its three hours of visual magnificence has attracted many passengers. During holidays a ticket is especially hard to find.

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Of the nine aboriginal groups in Taiwan, six can be found in Taitung. Al l the different ethnic festivals and celebrations are sure to please, whether you want an authentic experience or a raucous time.

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Along with good scenery Taitung also offers treasures of the humanities. Changping, Chilin, and the Peinan ruins are all found here. But these archaeological sites are not open to the public every day. (photo by Vincent Chang)

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(Left, right) The splendid coolness of autumn yields fruit of the season . In the famous Taitung City night market, one can enjoy eating delicious pomelos, custard apples and seafood. (photo by Ni Shu-yun)

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With a pure and unblemished coast, Taitung has been called "Taiwan's Haw aii." (photo by Vincent Chang)

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Chengkung and Fukang are Taitung's little fishing villages. A journey here can win you delicious seafood at a nice price.

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Lily blossoms spread along the ground lend a poetic quality to Taimali.

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Sitting in a South Link train car as it winds its way along the Pacificcoast, one can never fully appreciate the splendor of peak and sea.

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Schedule of Harvest Festivals

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South Link Railway Important Scenic Spots

South Link Railway Little Fact File

The South Link Railway begins in Fangliao, Pingtung County, and terminates at Peinan (Taitung New Station), at the junction with the East Coast Line. The South Link Railway altogether has 19 stations, of which 14 are boarding depots and five are switching stations.

After arriving in Taitung City, it is possible within the vicinity of the railway station to rent an automobile (approximately NT$1300 to NT$2000 per day, depending on the make and model) or a motorcyle (about NT$350 per day), to visit the many tourist spots in the area. Taitung taxis do not use fare meters, so chartering a car and driver might be comparatively expensive. If you wish to travel by local public buses, be sure to check the schedule in advance, so as not to waste time waiting.

For information concerning food, accommodations or transport during your travels, contact: Taitung County Travel Service Center (089) 326146;

Taitung Visitors Association (089) 340699; or the Taitung County Task Committee, CYC (089) 329891.

Remember to reserve tickets and hotel rooms ahead of time. Hotels tend to be booked full, especially during public holidays, so make preparat

ions in advance.

To make use of the Chihpen Hotsprings Area luxury hotel shuttle bus service, arrangements must be made at least 24 hours in advance. Although a fee is charged, it is still less expensive than taking a private taxi. Pick-up points include the Taitung train stations (new and old), the Chihpen train station, the Taitung airport.